Noche de San Juan in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

Wow. I'd never seen a firework blast like this before

Every Year, Saint John's Eve is celebrated in the beautiful city of Las Palmas. It has something to do with the foundation of the city, although the idea that it was founded precisely on Saint John's day seems unlikely to me.

Anyway, the celebration is a part of "Fiestas Fundacionales", associated strongly with Saint John (i.e. San Juan) and is most certainly of pagan origin. It is basically a Midsummer midnight madness, except it is shifted by a couple days.

Just before midnight. The extent to Las Canteras is marked with white lights; the place where the fireworks are set off is where the blue light is - in the center of the pic.

In this crop from the pic above you can see how crowded Las Canteras is. 

The absolute majority of people go to Las Canteras beach, where the beautiful firework display happens at midnight. Nothing wrong with that, and we did it a couple of times, but my, does it get crowded. Not to the extend that you can't find a place to sit, no. But still, crowded and very loud. Plus, if you are keen on taking photos, you can be absolutely sure that wherever you set your tripod, at some point an enormous butt in light-colored shorts will plant itself right between you and the fireworks. (I don't know why the shorts have to be light-colored, that's just how it is).

The obvious advantage of being on the beach is that you can go for a dip at midnight. According to my Spanish (and local) teacher, you have to do it with your clothes on (to make your wishes come true), but I must say I've never seen this happening.

Last cars trying to negotiate their way into and (surprisingly) out of the El Confital parking lot, just before midnight.

This year, we decided to do something different - namely, go to the small mountain above El Confital beach at the edge of Las Palmas, on La Isleta peninsula (see the map below). The high vantage point allowed to see the city, the island behind it, the fireworks, their reflection on the water - basically everything which I wanted to see and photograph. It also allowed to see firework blasts somewhere closer to the top of the island, but I can't say where (although I heard somebody said "Valsequillo").

Here you can see exactly where the fireworks are set off (crop from the very first pic). Many small blue lights along Las Canteras are people doing flash photography. Trying to light up the fireworks. (Well, ok, I know they are probably doing their selfies, belfies and whatelfies using fireworks as a background)

Getting to that mountain is surprisingly easy. You basically walk along the pavements, except for the last maybe hundred meters. You can see the paths on the map. While it is advisable to take a torch with you, I must say that we didn't really need it - lights from the road allow to see where you are going. There is some rubbish on the ground, so step carefully. And of course mind the drop to El Confital - it is a small mountain, but it is a mountain. "Упадешь - мало не покажется", i.e. it wouldn't seem small if you fall.

See the line of lights along the lower edge of the picture? Those are mobile phone screens (but of course), and they roughly show where the water starts. Police helicopter beam in the upper right.

Panoramic view just before midnight. Carretera de Los Colorados -  middle-lower left, a small dirt track to the El Confital parking - center. Cars are still going to and fro.

Now, getting there was easy for us, because we were prepared to walk all the way (although we did get on a bus for a couple of stops). I noticed that just before midnight there was a frenzied movement of vehicles, mostly people going round blocks looking for parking spaces, but also on the roads. As far as public transport is concerned, it was good to see that extra buses were added. At the same time routes and stops were changed (so we got off two stops before the intended one). So. If you decide to go to the same spot, I'd say give it plenty of time, leave your car at home or at least far from the beach, get a bus if you can, and then walk. It will save a lot of stress.

Grand Finale. See the little peninsula on the lower edge of the pic? That also looks like a good spot to watch and photograph. It was not that crowded.

The spot where we were wasn't exactly empty - there were a few people who came there to watch. Somebody on the top of the mountain even had a premature expyroculation - they set off a couple of rockets before the official fireworks started. There were also some bonfires, both along the edge of the cliff and below on the beach. This was another advantage - bonfires are forbidden on Las Canteras, which is understandable, considering how many people are there, but the ban subtracts from the the traditional element of it all.

Anyway. I am pleased with the results. Next year I will probably try to find a friendly roof or something, for another change of perspective :)

  
Pictures of San Juan on Shutterstock - here