tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-371440232024-03-14T13:32:56.883+00:00Pics and other stuffTamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.comBlogger608125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-34306367942782484712022-06-09T20:43:00.024+01:002023-02-07T22:22:04.913+00:00La Palma, Volcano Route, Ruta de Los Volcanes <p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0aAO8dT2HKSZEmHvHw8ed7O82Mvp0d-CJByYDu7tJXPo8XFmr37btzt2KnEwMbPqDk8xgt6OloZN4-crXchybs2y9Yedx6Sj776dzu4PfLntoSVsmEKC7MpMxtvjlKAHzXrsJP1-MGSn9HYJ6RwJ27YeY3e5LbPN8uyT4Mf0eAV3QMOq3Nf8/s1600/_MG_0569.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0aAO8dT2HKSZEmHvHw8ed7O82Mvp0d-CJByYDu7tJXPo8XFmr37btzt2KnEwMbPqDk8xgt6OloZN4-crXchybs2y9Yedx6Sj776dzu4PfLntoSVsmEKC7MpMxtvjlKAHzXrsJP1-MGSn9HYJ6RwJ27YeY3e5LbPN8uyT4Mf0eAV3QMOq3Nf8/w640-h320/_MG_0569.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Absolutely spectacular and very, very black ashes on Cráter del Duraznero, formed in 1949 </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> The Volcano Route, Ruta de los Volcanes, on beautiful La Palma, is one of the most famous hiking routes of the Canary Islands, the other equally famous one being the ascent of Teide. The latter can be done in various ways (<a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/07/ascent-of-teide.html" target="_blank" title="Ascent of Teide @ this blog">1</a>, <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/11/third-times-charm.html" target="_blank" title="Third time's the charm @ this blog">2</a>) though, whereas the Volcano Route is singular, running along the crest of the island north to south. The path forks a little sometimes, but the signs always and unambiguously point to the main path. </p>
<p> I was planning to do it for a while, and decided to go now-now, while the weather is not too hot. Let it be said right away that it is very beautiful, very worth going, but needs reasonable physical form and some preparation. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgi7Fm9oiyVeh1x7FnYnJJPZ9dbehkCU0fNLMchGVzCR86Cbxnh3k3EDFfVtjFYAgIC5tqaXgpAitXIGs6-xh5vTQwohkZx-EQ0qtb1I8lo7ZGmNfhiegVb76G-w1EJralJMpxc3JnWu2WQctvoX9KZQFwcONPQQEMk8mCpOi5BJ4rvnw5vg/s1546/_MG_0416.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1546" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKgi7Fm9oiyVeh1x7FnYnJJPZ9dbehkCU0fNLMchGVzCR86Cbxnh3k3EDFfVtjFYAgIC5tqaXgpAitXIGs6-xh5vTQwohkZx-EQ0qtb1I8lo7ZGmNfhiegVb76G-w1EJralJMpxc3JnWu2WQctvoX9KZQFwcONPQQEMk8mCpOi5BJ4rvnw5vg/w640-h332/_MG_0416.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Spectacular Caldera de Taburiente, the morning clouds are still floating inside </td></tr></tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>
<p> There are some logistical problems with the route, and the most obvious one is that it is linear and quite long, so if you go by car, you’ll have a problem getting back to it. It is one of the reasons why it is recommended to hike the route north to south — there are taxis at the southern end, in Fuencaliente de La Palma. In the north, the route starts at Area Recreativa El Pilar, where a bus used to run in happier times, but not any more, or at least not now. There is no taxi stand either. There are transfers, in theory, to the beginning of the route, but they don’t seem to go every day and cost quite a bit. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1YM6m9nA91TfpCA0B7oqALRCQwn21PISn4QAs5oVLFfk6tAZfO6pBj81A2bvqCHN3QghLL7HnpCy9kkc8dIdKpaSTFtZ7-FImdJSSJqa84CXKwd7yBul7aix0M22LEFUdCnbl2H5K1FT0Tow6WfNEy3Z6gvbEHfZYfiUO5Ord9Xmoe9vyak/s1600/_MG_0436.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1YM6m9nA91TfpCA0B7oqALRCQwn21PISn4QAs5oVLFfk6tAZfO6pBj81A2bvqCHN3QghLL7HnpCy9kkc8dIdKpaSTFtZ7-FImdJSSJqa84CXKwd7yBul7aix0M22LEFUdCnbl2H5K1FT0Tow6WfNEy3Z6gvbEHfZYfiUO5Ord9Xmoe9vyak/w640-h320/_MG_0436.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Forest along the first part of LP-301 seems to have survived the 2021 eruption quite well </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> So, being a big fan of public transport and a cheapskate at that, I decided I will try to walk a bit more but do it all by bus. It proved to be doable, and even carried an extra bonus, of which later. The regular Santa Cruz de la Palma — Llanos de Aridane bus brought me to the start of a minor road, LP-301, going south to the real start of the route. Preliminary research told me I was adding seven extra kilometers to my hike, so I was a bit perplexed when I saw a road sign saying “9 km”. It ended up being the expected seven, not sure what’s up with signage on the island.</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkEfIfsBUIqoPAKICDF26R03z8StGD3EHvdM9_NZi6dlRhjCk1KdHpjuNsZS2CeSlQccpyIuzdBY3sk7u3lQjY5K3R_8gVwYDDwyjh0_U4BWHcl22a3csPI2UzEDFPvMl_fSJYJWe5bISs6Zf6Wt4D9Jig5ovnNmxa1PGxlXOQazvGcz2l5Y/s1600/_MG_0438.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkEfIfsBUIqoPAKICDF26R03z8StGD3EHvdM9_NZi6dlRhjCk1KdHpjuNsZS2CeSlQccpyIuzdBY3sk7u3lQjY5K3R_8gVwYDDwyjh0_U4BWHcl22a3csPI2UzEDFPvMl_fSJYJWe5bISs6Zf6Wt4D9Jig5ovnNmxa1PGxlXOQazvGcz2l5Y/w640-h320/_MG_0438.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One of the last glimpses towards the Caldera de Taburiente from the road </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> LP 301 is narrow, but was quite walkable as there was very little traffic. I am not sure if it is always like that though. It was a weekday, plus the fact that the forecast was showing “scattered showers” probably scared some potential visitors away. At any rate, it is doable, and the views are beautiful, so I think I made the right decision. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioRsMeiKduShQUrGjMrW3PGD_yPJspdNnoJu8gyJbWGtatYrM-hkCfWzSa_PfoodINfO2I9MaKa3LnlRDf8QbF8TEaUqpQoX_rPeaewN0rnKSOuh3F91gP8C_aF0BT_W886GXjMF_lbaZt1CJS3-FftyUT86szLc9Au5_B8PH-TvJtysvwlMI/s1321/_MG_0446.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1321" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioRsMeiKduShQUrGjMrW3PGD_yPJspdNnoJu8gyJbWGtatYrM-hkCfWzSa_PfoodINfO2I9MaKa3LnlRDf8QbF8TEaUqpQoX_rPeaewN0rnKSOuh3F91gP8C_aF0BT_W886GXjMF_lbaZt1CJS3-FftyUT86szLc9Au5_B8PH-TvJtysvwlMI/w640-h388/_MG_0446.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There were ongoing roadworks signs and machinery here and there. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After initial three or four kilometers, I found myself walking between black ash piled up on both sides of the road. I was later told that it was the ash emitted by the volcano of 2021, still not officially named, but already having a few unofficial names, one of them Tajogaite. I hope Tajogaite sticks, it has a nice aboriginal ring to it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Q60eVh0z7TZF7o868TXOodYqGOesa6s_fYCmydYa-tEObA3-P4ke0nCU1PweCvWoje9RdaF_2DROQpVeSvK7jRmzriVKCnjpJQ0UBPKbm3Sj5LrgWNH4J3nW6upmchjvrx9IhBtUCOIfFyDeqDLrpw1tprLQlOiFjBaFG16Tjxedh9amjiI/s1490/_MG_0467.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1490" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Q60eVh0z7TZF7o868TXOodYqGOesa6s_fYCmydYa-tEObA3-P4ke0nCU1PweCvWoje9RdaF_2DROQpVeSvK7jRmzriVKCnjpJQ0UBPKbm3Sj5LrgWNH4J3nW6upmchjvrx9IhBtUCOIfFyDeqDLrpw1tprLQlOiFjBaFG16Tjxedh9amjiI/w640-h386/_MG_0467.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The black ash of the volcano, the yellowed pine trees, the walls of the Caldera in the background. <br /> I think it was well worth walking those additional kilometers. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> When I was already approaching the start of the hike, maybe a couple of kilometers out, I had my unexpected bonus. The views over black ash dunes with Canary pines still standing opened to the north. Because of the ongoing reparation roadworks after the eruption, there is no stopping on the road, but nobody can prevent a pedestrian from stopping of course. I also saw and spoke to some people working on opening the new hiking paths around the new volcano, the old ones being closed by the eruption. I even saw the beginning of a path, marked by boulders on both sides, but was told that “they won’t let you pass down there yet”. Not that I was going to, my main hike still ahead of me. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgygoV6Q3MyclGvMSK0Dm6Khd0wFohcU2_470dZqEWnQmZkffxqhcbP5LjUjmuwPKrGdL7tNAAAzEhLN_rL1QWAi8b8MClqHIzfpn3iEl2OQa5Y7jWriRW1huzlmRIlL7QvK1mIll-MbZTpd07o0x9F7l0NRsDCPEqH74S6HliaC5ZTLvs48cg/s1600/_MG_0480.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgygoV6Q3MyclGvMSK0Dm6Khd0wFohcU2_470dZqEWnQmZkffxqhcbP5LjUjmuwPKrGdL7tNAAAzEhLN_rL1QWAi8b8MClqHIzfpn3iEl2OQa5Y7jWriRW1huzlmRIlL7QvK1mIll-MbZTpd07o0x9F7l0NRsDCPEqH74S6HliaC5ZTLvs48cg/w640-h320/_MG_0480.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One more view back </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> At the “astronomical viewpoint” <a href="http://www.hellocanaryislands.com/stargazing/la-palma/stargazing-at-llano-del-jable/" target="_blank" title="Stargazing at Llano del Jable @ Canary Islands Tourism">Llano del Jable</a>, a kilometer or so out, there were several Island Council workers having their break and feeding a couple of ravens, iconic birds who are always hanging around touristy areas of La Palma. I stopped for a chat and was told that the layer of the ash left on the road was about 20-30 cm and it needed to be cleaned with heavy machinery. It seems like a lot, but it is even more impressive to think that some of the small houses were buried in ash almost completely, so that the layer must be about 3 meters in some places. And this is ash we are talking about, not the lava flow. Awesome. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTfNaX-ABeG-yr3tFGQ2bAxVlApCAp_e6XsaO7SJnx5QK6P0z1Z3xvX6NFmuc7fkIF9lCP8o5zOOqOgpV6W1t9CROFSQlPWSPXw7d59uLx_jtComdJOHjio0ibR3G-a9y7t5Mx7g/s1600/_MG_0483.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTfNaX-ABeG-yr3tFGQ2bAxVlApCAp_e6XsaO7SJnx5QK6P0z1Z3xvX6NFmuc7fkIF9lCP8o5zOOqOgpV6W1t9CROFSQlPWSPXw7d59uLx_jtComdJOHjio0ibR3G-a9y7t5Mx7g/w640-h320/_MG_0483.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pink flowering Cistus, rockroses, in bloom in the undergrowth. <br /> The genus is pyrophyte, so they were probably invigorated by the heat of last year’s volcano</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> As I finally came up to the start of the route, I hit the only glitch of the day. Although the route had been advertised on social media as re-opened, the Area Recreativa El Pilar was closed for building works. Not sure what they are doing exactly, but there were a few workers and machinery around, and the entrance to the area was closed by red and white tape. Problem was, that’s were I was supposed to start the route. There was no indication as to how to go around the obstacle, or at least I didn’t see one. Of course, I wasn’t about to turn around, so I boldly went where I wasn’t supposed to, to ask somebody what to do. Unfortunately, the guy I asked didn’t really know the answer, but nevertheless sent me back by the road I came, to look for the entrance in the area of “La Barquilla”. There is a dirt track going up, he said, and there you can access the route, he said. Off I went, only to find myself asking a couple standing and chatting by the dirt track and finding that there is no access there. The access was a bit further along the road, after the Area Recreativa, i.e. I needed to make a 180 degree turn once again. </p>
<p> The couple knew what they were talking about; the first guy didn’t. Dunno what’s up with some people willing to give directions without knowing the way. Maybe he was a taxi driver in his past life. At any rate, after adding another kilometer at least to my overall walking I finally was at the beginning of the real hike. And yes, there were indicators of the temporary change of route there. Keep all this in mind, look for official signs and don’t ask random guys as I did. You are always looking for GR 131, direction Fuencaliente. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9BWiCdi3T_SYEQwoiJGhFB15v_QSrjeZh0ZCNTI9sN08Y28J2fyYt3adqiq9FAbkok03Sb6xZ8BjvS4-DP2alLfiXM0EwH1qhUmm9Szsh2HnhHZ5A_s9EEc2o-Pf6SEqrHHw8yzkT6j_ng57at0CXI6_8TN30rwTg1iR3tc7ZwwP0cIOIq4c/s1600/_MG_0490.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9BWiCdi3T_SYEQwoiJGhFB15v_QSrjeZh0ZCNTI9sN08Y28J2fyYt3adqiq9FAbkok03Sb6xZ8BjvS4-DP2alLfiXM0EwH1qhUmm9Szsh2HnhHZ5A_s9EEc2o-Pf6SEqrHHw8yzkT6j_ng57at0CXI6_8TN30rwTg1iR3tc7ZwwP0cIOIq4c/w640-h320/_MG_0490.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> After a <a href="https://twitter.com/TamaraKPhoto/status/1533382470716035072?s=20&t=Ub3XTh6Qqjo2cAAXXDGRlA" target="_blank">discussion on Twitter</a>, an expert on local weather told me this strange fog is the evaporation of rainwater of days before </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The temporary start of the route goes rather steeply up along a cut in the forest covered by black ash. The “normal” route also starts with a sharp ascent, but it goes between tall pine trees and is less exposed. But it was mercifully short at least, and then the path went off to the right almost horizontally, climbing only slightly, first between trees, then over more exposed area. </p>
<p> From this point on, it was plain sailing all the way to Los Canarios in the Fuencaliente municipality. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgntSDn4uma5w9yJxGTMHigYnDIL2qAdmKWLWXGejur4OTbpze3Ytvlit_5v5Y5nodvGLtyJl5ytt72FwqkgOITtb27as-HH1-AlgoYL92JD_XTUDj2Z7ojMLaXzEZhJ0h5Tzs23NBt6_cjzHjmfHLerOF6S-qLJAnnUTLkfRj6YKEq0CSa0/s800/_MG_0495.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgntSDn4uma5w9yJxGTMHigYnDIL2qAdmKWLWXGejur4OTbpze3Ytvlit_5v5Y5nodvGLtyJl5ytt72FwqkgOITtb27as-HH1-AlgoYL92JD_XTUDj2Z7ojMLaXzEZhJ0h5Tzs23NBt6_cjzHjmfHLerOF6S-qLJAnnUTLkfRj6YKEq0CSa0/w640-h640/_MG_0495.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One of the markings of the long-range path </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The hike between Area Recreative and Los Canarios is nearly 18 kilometers. If you wish, you can add another 6 and arrive to the lighthouse of Fuencaliente, but that I wasn’t willing to do, as I’d already added quite a lot to the already long walk. It won’t be hugely difficult though, as the second half of the route is all downhill. This is another reason, I believe, why it is recommended to do the route north to south — this way you have less uphill than downhill. Having said that, the accumulated ascent is still quite respectable, just a bit less than 800 meters. The descent, however, is all of 1500 meters, so you have to think hard(er) if you wish to do the route in reverse. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyv-k6wWZkvGcEIRt-zoey4wWuJFPWqhoNX7pQLPVSqK3ROIQkMnAxxZGrKcCAP3i7E1erhZ9R7JJP2FQM09-P8fNtUme1fcA5fr4fY6Et7NxZObGfxcI6AZARWCZn2zj6CgJdHcgxsgiYcTO37I5iDEucLtefGlSkM6ArAGiQN5R_E4PU_VU/s3322/_MG_0514.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3322" data-original-width="3322" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyv-k6wWZkvGcEIRt-zoey4wWuJFPWqhoNX7pQLPVSqK3ROIQkMnAxxZGrKcCAP3i7E1erhZ9R7JJP2FQM09-P8fNtUme1fcA5fr4fY6Et7NxZObGfxcI6AZARWCZn2zj6CgJdHcgxsgiYcTO37I5iDEucLtefGlSkM6ArAGiQN5R_E4PU_VU/w640-h640/_MG_0514.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain scabious, probably Pterocephalus porphyranthus, and fog </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> All the photos in this post, apart from the very first one, are in chronological order, so you can appreciate just how changeable the weather was. Pink rockroses flowering in the mist lent that additional bit of magic to the landscape. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx320wy-VyN1EHfirro8d-MY3OU00oLNTtfoGNg8H2c49TvD1Xy0aKumvoUbvcrtX15lTcMGmkeMOQz23S3W9ajSSX_PPT33xQ5BYp88wcvB5sga9lGPBehyL0SL7srQMpf1ivXGAB12gi25OkRz69Gw6sdMiyMTGJKlEJFztlhvlcN4UwRfA/s800/_MG_0521_ir.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx320wy-VyN1EHfirro8d-MY3OU00oLNTtfoGNg8H2c49TvD1Xy0aKumvoUbvcrtX15lTcMGmkeMOQz23S3W9ajSSX_PPT33xQ5BYp88wcvB5sga9lGPBehyL0SL7srQMpf1ivXGAB12gi25OkRz69Gw6sdMiyMTGJKlEJFztlhvlcN4UwRfA/w640-h640/_MG_0521_ir.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Magical realism </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The path sometimes joins dirt tracks and sometimes runs as proper path, but is well signposted all the way.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3sVftW8XUogvWgJ4Xyn01JNEg_wtRNRG_pSzXd626M6GEbsZZ7JYOT-R8J-POeo_2OjkBq1BVDtU8I46JKq9zpdBR2sJ5lsqkKFIkOTrylnn5SvqJOVq-cphN9c0Z-MZAPVzMTAykB6Nhv2HIDik7OB-mkCOR6H_Q4skgTlT7AIBahs0gYU/s800/_MG_0522.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3sVftW8XUogvWgJ4Xyn01JNEg_wtRNRG_pSzXd626M6GEbsZZ7JYOT-R8J-POeo_2OjkBq1BVDtU8I46JKq9zpdBR2sJ5lsqkKFIkOTrylnn5SvqJOVq-cphN9c0Z-MZAPVzMTAykB6Nhv2HIDik7OB-mkCOR6H_Q4skgTlT7AIBahs0gYU/w640-h640/_MG_0522.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fairy tale forest. Might be one of the Grimm’s tales though </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> A note on the signposting: all along the path you will find two types of sign — one for the long range GR 131, maroon arrows with off-white lettering, and the other white and green for shorter local routes that happen to coincide with GR 131 at those points. They are usually placed just about 5 meters apart and all point in the correct direction. What I found amusing was the slight difference in distances the two types of signs where showing. Like one will be saying 5.2 km to the mark and another 5.5 km. The difference is not significant, of course, but as they are side by side, it looks rather odd. Add to that the initial confusion with the distance by road (seven vs nine km), and it seems that there are a few competing authorities, all wanting to be different just for the sake of it. </p>
<p> In some places, rectangular makings, like on one of the photos above, were painted just for good measure. So, unless there is absolute zero visibility, there is no way you can stray off the path. You might want to, of course, but that’s your business. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIVe41QSLSdNYoV4_bXNTGfkYPE-ND4mGn2ZSi-MLM6VjlAJu9PD33tmKXVCyhQfB2rbo14b31hp_cMrRsbGJLb2HApG3z0KyqaFlYxEj9JAmDa8j6Ea8retrkHm9r0qUExnPmQbi6MLAHk6L_2RmjiXMivtmOPoec241uOB_w0HMtMhKj-B4/s800/_MG_0541.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIVe41QSLSdNYoV4_bXNTGfkYPE-ND4mGn2ZSi-MLM6VjlAJu9PD33tmKXVCyhQfB2rbo14b31hp_cMrRsbGJLb2HApG3z0KyqaFlYxEj9JAmDa8j6Ea8retrkHm9r0qUExnPmQbi6MLAHk6L_2RmjiXMivtmOPoec241uOB_w0HMtMhKj-B4/w640-h640/_MG_0541.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Canary Pines and Clouds rolling on the other side of the crest </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> In the first two thirds of the route, the long-needled Canary pines, <i>Pinus canariensis</i>, all seemed affected by last year’s eruption. They survived, but the needles are yellow and dry and will eventually fall off. They’ll be just fine though, they are <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/04/canary-island-pine.html" target="_blank" title="Flora of Gran Canaria — Canary Island Pine, Pinus canariensis @ this blog">tough cookies</a>. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuQldaGqsFa6i9GrOfr1cyKgs1GGg48ceORQPuNRMcCjx4kAKiB6lvKa4bH0cNeib86lWaj6nbnjLVLBx7TQXsoCJsO3owq_kU40hI_HbHl_M_ExAo9cOJKjpO94gGS-BCFqtAA/s1600/_MG_0548.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWuQldaGqsFa6i9GrOfr1cyKgs1GGg48ceORQPuNRMcCjx4kAKiB6lvKa4bH0cNeib86lWaj6nbnjLVLBx7TQXsoCJsO3owq_kU40hI_HbHl_M_ExAo9cOJKjpO94gGS-BCFqtAA/w640-h320/_MG_0548.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> First obvious crater I saw, Hoyo Negro, also formed in 1949 </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Because of the clouds always being somewhere close I might have missed some of the views. Every time I looked back, there was a layer of clouds partially covering the landscape. From what I read I understood that on a clear day Caldera de Taburiente would be visible. Well, I didn’t mind, occasional cloud was just fine from my point of view. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2tRfikjd-OBBnW79ZEeCaeBwpqhW9t-jxdEZehLNnYmw3Pt1TFDsHQnvwOk9Tt9rprcHLvcpbaLkVfn3GjDEzn5mkSsV56fSAYhqt2GTWQhwUDhkxUyNNhC9t3_FS9Zr64Cs7qnfbwcE7F0XU93G2HrROroe3Qu4tXr3RBNBkZr884miR6Y/s1298/_MG_0557.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1298" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs2tRfikjd-OBBnW79ZEeCaeBwpqhW9t-jxdEZehLNnYmw3Pt1TFDsHQnvwOk9Tt9rprcHLvcpbaLkVfn3GjDEzn5mkSsV56fSAYhqt2GTWQhwUDhkxUyNNhC9t3_FS9Zr64Cs7qnfbwcE7F0XU93G2HrROroe3Qu4tXr3RBNBkZr884miR6Y/w640-h394/_MG_0557.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One more view of Hoyo Negro </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> One thing I’ve noted about the route is the color of the ground, where exposed. It’s very dark, sometimes almost black, the first and middle bit of the hike especially. I was lucky with the weather, but in full sun that walk must be like an oven with both the top and bottom heat switched on. Keep this in mind when you go. Lots of water, sunscreen, etc. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3zwqZHloxOVSqFDHa3Lny8ts5-9WYpOc1maI1URGNWTkJZ5oy9QB18l93ODmB3UgGZDORQ98P_TgYXZqzq5gxxtzwqgZsn-MZYgA-G_kIaj_hLgE33K4HF-9mvtZawwEuiASPmxm52vl9BGtFKFjrGsBIF_SUqqMvHOOyy7vFhu-6EEvun0I/s1600/_MG_0564.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3zwqZHloxOVSqFDHa3Lny8ts5-9WYpOc1maI1URGNWTkJZ5oy9QB18l93ODmB3UgGZDORQ98P_TgYXZqzq5gxxtzwqgZsn-MZYgA-G_kIaj_hLgE33K4HF-9mvtZawwEuiASPmxm52vl9BGtFKFjrGsBIF_SUqqMvHOOyy7vFhu-6EEvun0I/w640-h320/_MG_0564.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> This dead pine looks, to me, like a group of people having a rest on their way </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Keeping in mind that I probably missed some of the views, the view into the black bowl of Cráter del Duraznero was the most spectacular for me. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxuk9ZZKs76ddlZ3_STVz_DxCZPLnqqGxgpfYvaqyseunzA3e2ozQzKTN28yvQp71iRQ5MH9IgXK7fDIVxYQDdj9f_jlJism5JpOpwZQdOY1vAweJ23X2xbOcHcyaPggjq6JBG06HngKVsdAtaNNMTqvn6PPJZJkCEMxwOGP0UdvJW1Gho28/s1383/_MG_0572.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1383" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxuk9ZZKs76ddlZ3_STVz_DxCZPLnqqGxgpfYvaqyseunzA3e2ozQzKTN28yvQp71iRQ5MH9IgXK7fDIVxYQDdj9f_jlJism5JpOpwZQdOY1vAweJ23X2xbOcHcyaPggjq6JBG06HngKVsdAtaNNMTqvn6PPJZJkCEMxwOGP0UdvJW1Gho28/w640-h370/_MG_0572.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Spectacular. The path goes around it to the right, but there is a branch going up along this black slope, which is a possible variation. <br /> Maybe next time </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After Hoyo Negro and Duraznero the clouds started to roll in again, so sometimes I could only half-glimpse, half-guess the landscape. There were patches of old forest, each pine standing in a pool of fallen needles. Sometimes there were views opening on each side though. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievSST9RpYZTw02vxKLRdkLgzrl9H-wLA1-ebF1WKMUDtuwCCiBiIZZqPZtM7N5-T2c-oYTPsE15eXvQ-DEIfgvSrBD6PGXdEc3THSpXnAse5kpy3nqUXYe9nOtuPYGIosB8_IShw7Ji77uN6SuGQkehBDPHo2RLQD8iFReoMB-EvVrN8j1qg/s1600/_MG_0629.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievSST9RpYZTw02vxKLRdkLgzrl9H-wLA1-ebF1WKMUDtuwCCiBiIZZqPZtM7N5-T2c-oYTPsE15eXvQ-DEIfgvSrBD6PGXdEc3THSpXnAse5kpy3nqUXYe9nOtuPYGIosB8_IShw7Ji77uN6SuGQkehBDPHo2RLQD8iFReoMB-EvVrN8j1qg/w640-h320/_MG_0629.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> And sometimes, all the ground was covered by the fallen needles </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After the Duraznero there is the last discernible bit of ascent, and then the downhill starts, sometimes gently, sometimes more steep. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLU57IlC2VleSZqQU8pGw8qu4GmT67_-oNY8jWyFD8-hMG0UYt56saYPiQdqDPnGHDz6Z-8juAt9xiw_WBiw-KEpai2PuWZbJ4CN0O4xQGyP-SvSoKjpio1ePhw2d0BQWCz_gqPhcX8x83ecHPobfL0CHTn6VPstQz9rJ_06L1Feyo2u65IDQ/s800/_MG_0633.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLU57IlC2VleSZqQU8pGw8qu4GmT67_-oNY8jWyFD8-hMG0UYt56saYPiQdqDPnGHDz6Z-8juAt9xiw_WBiw-KEpai2PuWZbJ4CN0O4xQGyP-SvSoKjpio1ePhw2d0BQWCz_gqPhcX8x83ecHPobfL0CHTn6VPstQz9rJ_06L1Feyo2u65IDQ/w640-h640/_MG_0633.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Black volcanic soil, orange needles, nice contrast </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> I believe that by then the other municipality, called Fuencaliente, starts, but don’t quote me on that. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVLG8VAyCUiL4Gyyu0Quhjw0hjByEh-Lek8OYfJ3nF9R5eOpWf6tWL8WPo8OSCRMSBBaM4dTpJdWZRNzY0-GbYUg1rBULfhBBzZpXqKKqa4RjUzsrKAf7j5j7gFKQiMRP-qxVWju5LupUdVZJMJSNHFtFg68boyDtpvhVcftDXnf1DEy-is5w/s1600/_MG_0645.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVLG8VAyCUiL4Gyyu0Quhjw0hjByEh-Lek8OYfJ3nF9R5eOpWf6tWL8WPo8OSCRMSBBaM4dTpJdWZRNzY0-GbYUg1rBULfhBBzZpXqKKqa4RjUzsrKAf7j5j7gFKQiMRP-qxVWju5LupUdVZJMJSNHFtFg68boyDtpvhVcftDXnf1DEy-is5w/w640-h320/_MG_0645.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Not sure what the orange streak is, seems a bit too much to be pine needles, so probably soil color variation </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The last bit of the path, maybe the six last kilometers, runs inside pine forest. Some of it looked like possible reforestation effort, with pine trees small and fairly regularly placed. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qSYX1X_nNw076324gyxfy1qY24yPa2UcaLGry46rqITKNRGB_0AC2Q839GnAsy_iu52GE_ic0j3S-PpUjMTnC3QCxEI8vG88LAd_PEVmUIWdU4IGlvUEMmr0RvsTY3ufWh0cxB3pWh64YGtrIalV1JhREAse60DMk2qwdv2kqp8javOIzGQ/s1600/_MG_0667.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1qSYX1X_nNw076324gyxfy1qY24yPa2UcaLGry46rqITKNRGB_0AC2Q839GnAsy_iu52GE_ic0j3S-PpUjMTnC3QCxEI8vG88LAd_PEVmUIWdU4IGlvUEMmr0RvsTY3ufWh0cxB3pWh64YGtrIalV1JhREAse60DMk2qwdv2kqp8javOIzGQ/w640-h320/_MG_0667.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Maybe reforestation, maybe not, not sure. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The reforestation area eventually changed to older forest that ran all the way to Los Canarios. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUuRllmMZ59wm3gOtf6EgGWktkDDEY38JdorcFs69AuBdEpOjaPXPcGaniE0O7lTOTigQROMV0DHwQD10jEQ-VVPyea9Qq1AiGQ6yc-KITBChoN75QCPwpbU6ZxLPdkuS8ZUXNklbCqDEd9KRMIfWLD3j5yj-nbkzBCJNH9NheBB8G0A3TJic/s800/_MG_0673.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUuRllmMZ59wm3gOtf6EgGWktkDDEY38JdorcFs69AuBdEpOjaPXPcGaniE0O7lTOTigQROMV0DHwQD10jEQ-VVPyea9Qq1AiGQ6yc-KITBChoN75QCPwpbU6ZxLPdkuS8ZUXNklbCqDEd9KRMIfWLD3j5yj-nbkzBCJNH9NheBB8G0A3TJic/w640-h640/_MG_0673.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taller, older trees and mist again </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The very last bit of the walk I did partially runs on old “camino real”, boulder-paved path which was used by men and beasts of burden in the past. This was the only stretch of the path I found disagreeable to walk on. The boulders are old, uneven and worn out, and the incline is quite steep. When you walk, it’s sort of ok, as you can choose where you tread. But, as far as I know, the Transvulcania Ultramarathon runs along the same path. I wonder if there they have their fair share of twisted ankles every time it happens. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVWtOcae7T97WKDu_Vma8f3Vm4PLWr2O8cQBSZr_IRbDO9HxA7OIrrO7ex2tRodbqmnz_kiSQP8MoBmbi4aBh_Fz8pwtZuDMIGHYs6CtwpbdhYtV7XtPPBnOyP7YLwJ31umo_zFpP_qsP2ZJ8sLM-1GogydPipnYLymKQbS5pDNc6t6JTI1A/s1557/_MG_0677.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1557" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVWtOcae7T97WKDu_Vma8f3Vm4PLWr2O8cQBSZr_IRbDO9HxA7OIrrO7ex2tRodbqmnz_kiSQP8MoBmbi4aBh_Fz8pwtZuDMIGHYs6CtwpbdhYtV7XtPPBnOyP7YLwJ31umo_zFpP_qsP2ZJ8sLM-1GogydPipnYLymKQbS5pDNc6t6JTI1A/w640-h328/_MG_0677.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forests close to Los Canarios </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> And that’s pretty much it. It took me about seven hours to do the whole thing, initial walking on the road and running hither and thither around the Area Recreativa included. My mobile showed me 25.5 kilometers of walking, but it’s not very good with ascents and descents, so it is probably a bit more. The route is available from many sources, <a href="https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ruta-de-los-volcanes-isla-de-la-palma-2707656" target="_blank" title="Ruta de LOS VOLCANES -ISLA DE LA PALMA- @ Wikiloc">here</a> is an example from wikiloc. </p>
<p> More pics from La Palma — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=La+Palma+landscape" target="_blank" title="Photos of La Palma by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>
<p> If you find this post useful and wish to thank me by buying me a coffee, there is hopefully a ko-fi button floating around somewhere. </p>
<p> That’s all, I think. Happy walking. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-32468144278714224842022-03-13T18:29:00.016+00:002023-02-07T08:59:37.869+00:00South of Gran Canaria, Andén del Zurrado in Barranco de Arguineguin ravine, circular route<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_ZvgNOfBXGtwbgU-ds8CyKj5E79mBupwlpl6VApz205SzEu5sUePTtYsB11BJBQt9JaY8Q-Rj-NoCWgjjpYhawjLmUtkms_FVCSaWxFY6J-REbDI7tXs2lnAbXPP8hXxqo4DRGKgDz5arulzwL-fZxqgGGc1vO6lkcmsxB4yj-SqBPeUUkUk=s1201" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1201" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_ZvgNOfBXGtwbgU-ds8CyKj5E79mBupwlpl6VApz205SzEu5sUePTtYsB11BJBQt9JaY8Q-Rj-NoCWgjjpYhawjLmUtkms_FVCSaWxFY6J-REbDI7tXs2lnAbXPP8hXxqo4DRGKgDz5arulzwL-fZxqgGGc1vO6lkcmsxB4yj-SqBPeUUkUk=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If this pic gives you vertigo, don’t go</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Well, I would like to start by expanding on the caption above. The main point of this hike, at least for me, was to see and walk a spectacular “Andén del Zurrado”, <i>andén</i>* being a pass or a path in a precipitous place, in this case with a strong emphasis on precipitous. There is no real danger, of which later, but if you have a fear of heights, it can get really tricky for you. </p>
<p> OK, warning done, back to the walk. A pic of Andén del Zurrado came up in Facebook and we started planning the walk immediately. The main problem of this walk is logistics, not the difficulty, once you are sure that everybody in your group can handle heights. </p>
<p> So, first problem, the transport. There is no public transport that come close to the start of the walk, at least I can’t find any. The nearest stop of Global is about 7 km out, so not a viable option. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgoIzGZtv1sF2PU-qJbnVeZWfTkV3gdiSOfmoju-d4wPFFCv_TnxDQU5uFd7YcoFnJIPBPlJczwYa43VzBhC9Hk-hk8jNagSimoQWyDn_pk2Xwxw6uA6oxPoMvKSVfkz57BBx5N_ENPupQzvrmyk9E2SPhBbhxaF_xrJ9Iso15vmXYWSFCGFGk=s1544" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1544" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgoIzGZtv1sF2PU-qJbnVeZWfTkV3gdiSOfmoju-d4wPFFCv_TnxDQU5uFd7YcoFnJIPBPlJczwYa43VzBhC9Hk-hk8jNagSimoQWyDn_pk2Xwxw6uA6oxPoMvKSVfkz57BBx5N_ENPupQzvrmyk9E2SPhBbhxaF_xrJ9Iso15vmXYWSFCGFGk=w640-h332" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West wall of Barranco de Arguineguin ravine. The orchards at the bottom of the pic are of orange trees.</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Second problem, choosing the day. Although at least part of this walk passes under pine trees, the woods in the south of Gran Canaria are very sparse and don’t give much shade. In summer the heat could be suffocating, so wouldn’t walk this route in summer. Also, best avoid wet days, because rocks can get very slippery, obviously. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEioLHoGmKHKDqymbCyZO13aCVU5Mr-B3wD8SOTMn4YuyYRSOLCmMXvJnj17ZvTf70rvJ2wSpLXmc39rwwQDflZmCdhHbNFChzbeerE50tGbk9T1IuYzXsTBYRCi3yr8W2CTXShHsinwgBFAB1303FsFaThYsL2vy7vgI86gVmfZmcIxNtJDbHk=s1351" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1351" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEioLHoGmKHKDqymbCyZO13aCVU5Mr-B3wD8SOTMn4YuyYRSOLCmMXvJnj17ZvTf70rvJ2wSpLXmc39rwwQDflZmCdhHbNFChzbeerE50tGbk9T1IuYzXsTBYRCi3yr8W2CTXShHsinwgBFAB1303FsFaThYsL2vy7vgI86gVmfZmcIxNtJDbHk=w640-h378" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> You can indulge your pareidolia, rocks and caves are only to happy to provide you with visual clues for interpretation. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Once the day is chosen and you are on your way, look for a space to park on your right immediately after you passed mark 19 km on GC505. There are at least three possible places which I spotted. The reason to park more or less there is to distribute about 2 km walking on the road between the start and the finish of the walk evenly. Having said that, the village immediately ahead, Barranquillo Andrés, will have a lot of possible parking spaces, and the route passes through it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkKs_5Ef3I0udULXoBWbmEGEKr_vlGYXxJTKsbQo7S-Jk1SO8ErFF_8iDTBgmiM5bw5z8d2jhflRrTJBzYXNfJ4lZ1NY1ymgXnJWJnOeIS_Nq4jRqceaH2z8bqPuRWM1V_52fQNQQQFXGvHJByCYyJAuLO2rpQEtBDBtskvgSHqy4byL8IuAk=s1297" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1297" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgkKs_5Ef3I0udULXoBWbmEGEKr_vlGYXxJTKsbQo7S-Jk1SO8ErFF_8iDTBgmiM5bw5z8d2jhflRrTJBzYXNfJ4lZ1NY1ymgXnJWJnOeIS_Nq4jRqceaH2z8bqPuRWM1V_52fQNQQQFXGvHJByCYyJAuLO2rpQEtBDBtskvgSHqy4byL8IuAk=w640-h394" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The path starts with a reasonably gentle ascent </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Once parked, we’ve started to walk on the road backwards and downhill. As the route is circular, you also can walk upwards. It might even make more sense, of which later. While walking, we were looking for a sign of a path to our right. From where we parked, it was about 1 km. There were two arrows and two possible routes, ours was the one that said “Cortadores”, and the path that went up. Very shortly, there was a sort of T-junction in the path, which was the only point of possible confusion. We have chosen, correctly as we found later, the branch that went left, basically the same direction we’ve just walked on the road. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhr3DW_bhs-E9u3z7XQdAmRv9ognuwVp-4VR-NHlXlqbqHnGVxH5ssTfQa3GpM1maevWR9sVhDXdpBti35WeCa7cuGQmKRCmWOjLrJqnG8DAGKDUzbtBf7WBa74ggQiac1YYXdJA1SuOO7bcCOEYOIqLye-1kuQaOY3MtXnpTy7u-1d07IswBs=s1227" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1227" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhr3DW_bhs-E9u3z7XQdAmRv9ognuwVp-4VR-NHlXlqbqHnGVxH5ssTfQa3GpM1maevWR9sVhDXdpBti35WeCa7cuGQmKRCmWOjLrJqnG8DAGKDUzbtBf7WBa74ggQiac1YYXdJA1SuOO7bcCOEYOIqLye-1kuQaOY3MtXnpTy7u-1d07IswBs=w640-h418" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andén del Zurrado, the star attraction of the walk. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Quite soon after this, about 1.5—2 km along the path, it brought us very close to a first vertical rock face, but it didn’t bring us to the narrow ledge under it, as we expected. There was a brief moment of panic — did we choose the wrong path? was the other branch the one we needed? yes, yes, let’s all ask each other... — but we decided to carry on along the same route. Very shortly, after we rounded an outcrop, the aim of the walk revealed itself in all its glory. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-wHMJxLLMcp6mRg1g3Kg0a6C9i2lTVAfQCHjzfrZ0gTbq0sqVY0iFtb13jPM54GDTp9XxbUYNacJWtatLqeyybZJXldjXmRMKGAb1A14gFav9Ubrq46vYOC1TUoUKSBlCFf1e_mrJiIbW6D_sDp7YQ4q2rJMGFYqQ_K_OucWrZnaYTjNc7gM=s1342" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1342" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj-wHMJxLLMcp6mRg1g3Kg0a6C9i2lTVAfQCHjzfrZ0gTbq0sqVY0iFtb13jPM54GDTp9XxbUYNacJWtatLqeyybZJXldjXmRMKGAb1A14gFav9Ubrq46vYOC1TUoUKSBlCFf1e_mrJiIbW6D_sDp7YQ4q2rJMGFYqQ_K_OucWrZnaYTjNc7gM=w640-h382" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isn’t it impressive?</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>At which point let me come back to the itinerary. We did the route clockwise. The advantage of this direction is that the first ascent is quite gentle. The disadvantage is that we did the Andén del Zurrado very soon after the beginning of the walk, about 3 km in. So, the star attraction was already done and there was still 8 km of walking to do. The disadvantage of the counterclockwise direction is that the initial ascent from the village is quite steep and starts very soon into the walk, leaving no time to warm up. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhSXsSwCcKAn5fYK_S7SXeTzKsgOwfACsjxrILyJnT_9lAnPnTJPu_lsh8X6XuhbE3bBx8NZq-YkxbmFqO6inAn6kPhxxQsML9SkhcAgVeHhs6GESFJaqxnpKpLGwwnfBUC8tHsgNInswCIyuiqGqb707kzzW7hEN2xh3xNRvpBBdX3SZsJrvU=s1326" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1326" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhSXsSwCcKAn5fYK_S7SXeTzKsgOwfACsjxrILyJnT_9lAnPnTJPu_lsh8X6XuhbE3bBx8NZq-YkxbmFqO6inAn6kPhxxQsML9SkhcAgVeHhs6GESFJaqxnpKpLGwwnfBUC8tHsgNInswCIyuiqGqb707kzzW7hEN2xh3xNRvpBBdX3SZsJrvU=w640-h386" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> A closer look. And, btw, I find the mix of palm trees and pines fascinating, maybe because the pines for me are something from the north </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> About the Andén itself. As you can see in the pictures, there is a near-vertical wall on one side and a very sharp drop on the other. It is not very long, less than a hundred meters, I think. Most of its length it is more than one meter wide, narrowing ad absurdum at only one point. but even there there was no problem passing. We didn’t need to use out hands or anything. But let me stress once again — if you have a fear of heights, do not go. From time to time we read in our local press stories about people being rescued from various places, and at least some of those rescues are because hikers found themselves stuck somewhere panicked, unable to continue. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiCJWd7u-y9Bc5-AxMDxyBrLRVuEvaz1-GLKgLkaHPg4K1nZQVdxR4lDXmlGZkm9GHibs4vft6w_5Zi8OkjLso6BcykDGuzB7lMghI1Bc-yWK5w9xMQESQe6s5hM6P5O6MTUr2yT2IU8ZuYjNTqskQl2Pltt32zgJ8um6AQ2Po5GpZ1yabIMXQ=s1310" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1310" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiCJWd7u-y9Bc5-AxMDxyBrLRVuEvaz1-GLKgLkaHPg4K1nZQVdxR4lDXmlGZkm9GHibs4vft6w_5Zi8OkjLso6BcykDGuzB7lMghI1Bc-yWK5w9xMQESQe6s5hM6P5O6MTUr2yT2IU8ZuYjNTqskQl2Pltt32zgJ8um6AQ2Po5GpZ1yabIMXQ=w640-h390" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A look back. Not sure why are there rocks in that horizontal crack, but I sincerely hope they are not there to hold the upper stratum up</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> One more point. If you decide to strike a heroic pose on one of the loose rocks that are scattered along the ledge, test the rock first. They fall down, mercifully rarely, from the cliff, so they might be unstable. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg4mUwVpLfycnPlZz-fs9dfMGc1oFBB1ZbpJ4XvVXMPkS9v8f-Ib1Ea6Zf5sK0kqS9CFQ8IB9hy-z1kLIx9MicLINyGm0arbQEUj-v4glWoITMgVstvfkysM2C3tfU4QzjNUSdq4PjWo540uQ-2fCHwkLrY3fvN2OjG9Ov5qSb3NW8evzheenA=s1201" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1201" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg4mUwVpLfycnPlZz-fs9dfMGc1oFBB1ZbpJ4XvVXMPkS9v8f-Ib1Ea6Zf5sK0kqS9CFQ8IB9hy-z1kLIx9MicLINyGm0arbQEUj-v4glWoITMgVstvfkysM2C3tfU4QzjNUSdq4PjWo540uQ-2fCHwkLrY3fvN2OjG9Ov5qSb3NW8evzheenA=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another look back. Barranco de Arguineguin to the right. Roque Nublo visible in far distance </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After the andén was done, the ascending path brought us to a pass Degollada de Cortadores. There we made almost a complete U-turn, and started going along the upper edge of the valley wall, in parallel to a canal that carries fresh water from Presa de las Niñas. The stretch of the canal closest to the pass has a large-diameter tube inside, so we couldn’t see the water, but in a hundred meters there was no tube anymore. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg81HVA2WAi3h3GIHNwV7A4U14QS3wBHGcYqPEh1lFsoSYa-k7cMI0DASNq9XOh5a7ag1KQVYGI86TiRIcxb5k4vqEZbtg1mlYie0DYmCErwR6DHpArKl9cIf3e8RiI_gPwX87MZtefItXu71q7VPGZcy5YipnMmGcmnBf0eAXEeS56OpAx2nE=s1452" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1452" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg81HVA2WAi3h3GIHNwV7A4U14QS3wBHGcYqPEh1lFsoSYa-k7cMI0DASNq9XOh5a7ag1KQVYGI86TiRIcxb5k4vqEZbtg1mlYie0DYmCErwR6DHpArKl9cIf3e8RiI_gPwX87MZtefItXu71q7VPGZcy5YipnMmGcmnBf0eAXEeS56OpAx2nE=w640-h352" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not very picturesque, but extremely important </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Which reminds me. When we first came to the Canary Islands, I couldn’t understand the fascination of the locals every time they saw a little bit of freshwater anywhere. On Fuerteventura it is difficult to find in any case, and here on Gran Canaria it is also getting more and more scarce. When we just came, there were three places where freshwater was running freely — <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/10/barranco-de-la-mina-gran-canaria.html" target="_blank" title="Barranco de la Mina, Gran Canaria @ this blog">Barranco de la Mina</a>, <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/05/gran-canaria-barranco-de-azuaje.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria, Barranco de Azuaje @ this blog">Barranco de Azuaje</a> and <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/09/barranco-de-los-cernicalos-water.html" target="_blank" title="Barranco de los Cernícalos — water! @ this blog">Barranco de los Cernicalos</a>. By now, the first one, Barranco de La Mina, has its water running in tubes. The owners of the water want to sell every last drop of it, and apparently there is no laws or regulation to prevent them from doing so. As a result, once-lush ravine is dying. The <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/10/gran-canaria-after-forest-fire.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria after the forest fire, September 2017 @ this blog">wildfire of 2017</a> ripped through it without any difficulty. There is an ongoing campaign to do <b>something</b> about it, but nobody seems to be very sure where to start. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRI7vSway2XU_huc973oe1fE90lJ9sTvdjBVY8A-KYouAxRauhoKOCffhkj5kDRD_U9uOhGyopIfiw5jmO-3Mhpbzn9Kfoy1LYlYLTnPyGCI7ALEOdNiLxt6uLgnhaYKmAH9kYuZJcumrJFsS2g_unf0jeCVbTBIBD9tMFZcBJ4zTuWQTwnps=s1573" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1573" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRI7vSway2XU_huc973oe1fE90lJ9sTvdjBVY8A-KYouAxRauhoKOCffhkj5kDRD_U9uOhGyopIfiw5jmO-3Mhpbzn9Kfoy1LYlYLTnPyGCI7ALEOdNiLxt6uLgnhaYKmAH9kYuZJcumrJFsS2g_unf0jeCVbTBIBD9tMFZcBJ4zTuWQTwnps=w640-h326" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look into Barranco de Arguineguin. The road below making a hairpin loop is GC 505. <br /> As you can see, driving here is not for fainthearted either. I was so happy I wasn’t the driver. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> In about a kilometer after the Cortadores pass, there is a sign with arrows, and a poster with a map and information about the path. Not that we were in any doubt, but it always feels good when what you see confirms what your expect to see. By now we were aiming for the village Barranquillo Andrés. From this point the path gets very clearly signposted, although there is practically no need for it. There are arrows and low wooden posts with green rectangles on them. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjfeWwJG3x57tg2l2FbgQCWbuIeOBtOxjoj71-A4oZRUnHXOO7njjyKoPdGugEo1-UzyYjS0FsxsjNNaIw8bX875XpsEojDZ1uIoj4F6AhTu63iXx6RTMmnD1fvYVeB6XEyz_qYLPkIk39dfphl1gp9US6hx19uzxGz8wlgDYchFZgslAFZ8-8=s1255" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1255" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjfeWwJG3x57tg2l2FbgQCWbuIeOBtOxjoj71-A4oZRUnHXOO7njjyKoPdGugEo1-UzyYjS0FsxsjNNaIw8bX875XpsEojDZ1uIoj4F6AhTu63iXx6RTMmnD1fvYVeB6XEyz_qYLPkIk39dfphl1gp9US6hx19uzxGz8wlgDYchFZgslAFZ8-8=w640-h408" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> More general view. Roque Nublo middle upper edge, light grey wall of Soria dam upper left quadrant </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Speaking about the Arguineguin ravine. There is a very ambitious project — to pump desalinated water from the ocean to the Soria dam and to produce hydroelectric power this way. The power for desalination and pumping is supposed to come from wind generator fields.The problem with fresh water and the problem with storage of energy can, theoretically, be resolved at the same time. But, there is always a but. It is necessary to built a high-voltage line along the ravine, to start with. Ecologists are not too happy about it, and there is an ongoing struggle between them and the island council. And the local news reporting is so bad, I can’t even tell for sure if the project is approved, suspended or rejected. One thing is clear though — there is not a single electric tower in sight, so it is not executed, at least.</p><p>We had a bit of an argument almost all the way about which dam was it, as there are several in the ravine and its branches, but it is Soria, believe you me. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgtJUvr3AUpe58J3tXLLkoVmZmRqTVTFiDFzaEuZPBF1h-kEtPqSkBgYlH2ZDrMn_gN9rmiH4JhfQXjyiUIl10lsl5-YH4LJRvuSJE8oMvAwhYjztDZ2tUGkICd13GzUtuO7D7-Z4jR-AywlHI_FM4ce30PsRoc7DXHuRqnsZNQWA_J4qGSE0s=s800" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="513" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgtJUvr3AUpe58J3tXLLkoVmZmRqTVTFiDFzaEuZPBF1h-kEtPqSkBgYlH2ZDrMn_gN9rmiH4JhfQXjyiUIl10lsl5-YH4LJRvuSJE8oMvAwhYjztDZ2tUGkICd13GzUtuO7D7-Z4jR-AywlHI_FM4ce30PsRoc7DXHuRqnsZNQWA_J4qGSE0s=w410-h640" width="410" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another, or maybe even the same, water canal. Can’t be sure from the altitudes</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> At this stage there was only one path, quite wide and well maintained. It is mostly flat. There were some small landslides at some points, but when we went, the rubble was cleared away. At about 6 km from the start of the walk, there was a steep descent, quite slippery because of the small loose stones. After it, there came a short sharpish ascent, at the end of which we found ourselves going alongside a canal. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgRRKdFaQes-sPIeZ6Qsu-p1iOrdsm4k6suvKbMniAtagK9wC-S4RzwfFovEaaaPy8mVeDNcHCl4CZ8uXdSGdlhBmCrMjzyxwQjqnHUVzPzsEbDb3djhuchgjBmyulvffdajBtCrwMRGOmanZqOF0O02TGSQhuxvNQYR1QuxR7Y5Ds2-wgtd7I=s1201" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1201" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgRRKdFaQes-sPIeZ6Qsu-p1iOrdsm4k6suvKbMniAtagK9wC-S4RzwfFovEaaaPy8mVeDNcHCl4CZ8uXdSGdlhBmCrMjzyxwQjqnHUVzPzsEbDb3djhuchgjBmyulvffdajBtCrwMRGOmanZqOF0O02TGSQhuxvNQYR1QuxR7Y5Ds2-wgtd7I=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See a horizontal wall? It supports the canal. See a path going up? That’s ours </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The path followed the canal for about 2 km. We were going in the direction opposite to the movement of the water, so we kept going up, very gently at this stage. At the end of this stretch, on the rock face to the left, there is a dragon tree. You can’t come close, so I didn’t even try to photograph it, but apparently it is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dracaena_tamaranae" target="_blank">Dracaena tamaranae</a>, critically endangered species endemic to Gran Canaria. Keep looking up and you’ll see it.</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgYZ7ci8x9lVA_pO59dIskJdlFPPF5CD8R7tAnsIjqm-0Gbv_WVL-CIVlqCU--DqSNrP8nYvwU9NUg-anqGkrX8cqbR_MRttaz9W5Osn_WbDdsAB_IpMSNuxGW6PXHCtq_8BLkF5W4_5xw74brV244oqhsuXC_y6NYHMiZk45WfyGnkidBZz94=s800" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgYZ7ci8x9lVA_pO59dIskJdlFPPF5CD8R7tAnsIjqm-0Gbv_WVL-CIVlqCU--DqSNrP8nYvwU9NUg-anqGkrX8cqbR_MRttaz9W5Osn_WbDdsAB_IpMSNuxGW6PXHCtq_8BLkF5W4_5xw74brV244oqhsuXC_y6NYHMiZk45WfyGnkidBZz94=w640-h640" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Check out the wall. Spectacular, isn’t it? </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After the dragon tree, a clear path went down to join a dirt track, only to branch up from it again in less than a hundred meters. Once again, very clearly signposted. This is the last bit of ascent on the route which lead us to the point called Piquillo. There was an information poster, where we finally resolved our argument about what dam was it. There is also a small curio — a dead pine trunk through which a hole was drilled. If you look through, you see the dragon tree you have just passed. I didn’t make a photo, but there is one in the link to wikiloc below. </p>
<p> Well, that’s it really. Soon after that we found ourselves heading down into the village along a well-signposted path and then back to the car. At the time we were at the village, about 14.30, a small bar next to the church was already closed, and a small grocery shop closed just as we were about to come level with it. In short, there was nowhere to have a well-deserved beer. But, luckily, we found an open bar in Cercanos de Espino, about 7 km along the road back towards the Arguineguin, so it all went well really. </p>
<p> It was one of the most spectacular walks I ever had on Gran Canaria. And that is saying something. If you ever go, hope you enjoy it as much as I did.</p>
<p> Link to the wikiloc — <a href="https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/circular-felisia-anden-del-zurrado-degollada-de-cortadores-canal-de-las-ninas-version-corta-61442843" target="_blank" title="Circular: Felisia - Andén del Zurrado - Degollada de Cortadores - Canal de las Niñas (Versión corta) @ Wikiloc">here</a>. Please note that the distance specified — 10.15 km — sounds about right, although my tracker gives me 11 km, but the accumulated ascent and descent, 1430 meters, have very little to do with the reality. Not sure how this number come about. My estimate is about 600 meters, but I didn’t measure it, just the feeling. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi7zii7GPFz854mold_CXfbBy9RsX5m9eOmPh0cq5lpMg2lN2wEgv0NUlcGye5ydl4R6pYkLJwtvqHoP5yDXHlvBQnBDgRuu5tsLirbxdlaGF6Fet_sf6dFcdOnJBs5B5BQ88fgV2Lau5-5rI3OwyP-SoG7-AT857iUNYTogOumhDFwVpGLIJ0=s800" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi7zii7GPFz854mold_CXfbBy9RsX5m9eOmPh0cq5lpMg2lN2wEgv0NUlcGye5ydl4R6pYkLJwtvqHoP5yDXHlvBQnBDgRuu5tsLirbxdlaGF6Fet_sf6dFcdOnJBs5B5BQ88fgV2Lau5-5rI3OwyP-SoG7-AT857iUNYTogOumhDFwVpGLIJ0=w640-h640" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Just one more pic, for luck </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> -------------------- </p>
<p> *I think the word comes from <i>andar</i>, to walk. Sorry, a folk etymologist in me just won’t shut up </p>
<p> Pictures of hikes on Shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=gran+canaria+hiking" target="_blank" title="Photos of hikes in Gran Canariaby Tamara Kulikova">here</a></p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-74769051044925677652021-12-05T16:06:00.020+00:002023-03-03T00:23:51.575+00:00Altavista, or Azaenegue<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vOftfCnQ7o4/YaNYz370ytI/AAAAAAAAI4g/xsYFc85aznggwbgHYTleraDImyY5DmnJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1492/_MG_3287.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1492" height="386" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vOftfCnQ7o4/YaNYz370ytI/AAAAAAAAI4g/xsYFc85aznggwbgHYTleraDImyY5DmnJwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h386/_MG_3287.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View west from the viewpoint, La Aldea de San Nicolás to the left </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> A walk along the crest of Altavista, or Azaenegue in aboriginal language, towards a viewpoint on the end closer to La Aldea is one of the easy and beautiful linear walks in the vicinity of Artenara village, on the edge of Tamadaba nature park. It does have some ascents, with the corresponding descents, but they are as light as they go on the island. There is no getting lost either. The only problem here is the transport to the start of the walk, the same as in nearly all of the walks to the west of Artenara. Once again, driving, or being driven, is the most realistic option for a one-day trip. But, unlike <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2021/11/faneque-first-attempt.html" target="_blank" title="Faneque, the first attempt @ this blog">Faneque</a>, you can do it if you stay in Artenara village; you can even do the longer version of the walk starting in Artenara and using the <a href="http://guaguasglobal.com/en/routes-timetables/" target="_blank" title="Routes and timetables - Global">public transport</a>, but you will have yourself a very tiresome day. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ldHYztu_Rr4/YaNaMXAmznI/AAAAAAAAI4o/vz4-UN8xwGEZVA-kg-OvjHrwbqyX4vh5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1209/_MG_3327.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1209" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ldHYztu_Rr4/YaNaMXAmznI/AAAAAAAAI4o/vz4-UN8xwGEZVA-kg-OvjHrwbqyX4vh5gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h424/_MG_3327.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2021/11/faneque-first-attempt.html" target="_blank" title="Faneque, the first attempt @ this blog">Faneque</a> behind the solitary pine. The pine was burnt partially in the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/09/gran-canaria-after-forest-fire-2019.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria after forest fire 2019, Cruz de Tejeda - Artenara @ this blog">Valleseco wildfire</a> in 2019 </td></tr></tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>
<p> I first stood at the viewpoint on Altavista a few years ago, while on a walk with Arawak (sigggghhh, hope they come back one day). I was infinitely impressed by the views, but I think that the awe I felt was partially due to not knowing what I was looking at. Now when I look at the distant mountains, villages and reservoirs, I can name many of them and visualize the walks that exist around them. It feels different, but also quite brilliant. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAUvJj8oM4w/YaXsbD2wrRI/AAAAAAAAI40/_ECDtZSY7Y8sGH-yy95S61FIvqYeqrN6ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3290.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAUvJj8oM4w/YaXsbD2wrRI/AAAAAAAAI40/_ECDtZSY7Y8sGH-yy95S61FIvqYeqrN6ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3290.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teide peeking over his comfort blanket. Poor old thing, he must be cold </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> There are a few different starting points for this walk between <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/artenara" target="_blank" title="Artenara @ this blog">Artenara</a> and the mountain itself, the farthest being, obviously, Artenara. We started from the nearest one, Degollada del Sargento pass. The place is easy to miss if you drive. Look to your left often and stop when you see the view opening towards <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/caldera%20de%20tejeda" target="_blank" title="Caldera de Tejeda @ this blog">Caldera de Tejeda</a>. There is a small car park and an information display. If you drive right past, as we did, turn around. The road, GC-216, will make a one-way counterclockwise loop about three km from the pass. If you find yourself there, you’ve obviously gone too far, but there is a good thing to it, too — the road will bring you right back to the pass, eventually, and you will drive through very impressive scenery. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VrRxdpOoBFU/YajPpkWsXwI/AAAAAAAAI5I/osluY-KTYGALaZMgRNZOINtAvSY4Kf0vwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1187/_MG_3315.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1187" height="486" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VrRxdpOoBFU/YajPpkWsXwI/AAAAAAAAI5I/osluY-KTYGALaZMgRNZOINtAvSY4Kf0vwCNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h486/_MG_3315.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/Roque%20Bentayga" target="_blank" title="Roque Bentayga @ this blog">Roque Bentayga</a>, as majestic as ever, set off by the cloudfall behind it. Roque Nublo to the right. I prefer Bentayga myself. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The above-mentioned information display shows the route and gives the distances. I believe it’s impossible to get truly lost on this one. There are very few forks, and only at one point could it be somewhat confusing — when one path goes to the right, to <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/La%20Aldea" target="_blank" title="La Aldea @ this blog">La Aldea</a>. But it’s easily sorted — if you realize that you are going horizontally for a goodish while after a fork, just come back and take another branch. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wfHWqyGmPSU/YaoFZ3iSTWI/AAAAAAAAI5Q/j-tobV6Mb_oaUwFmdLNG9o0QNsvLZmWTwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3302.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wfHWqyGmPSU/YaoFZ3iSTWI/AAAAAAAAI5Q/j-tobV6Mb_oaUwFmdLNG9o0QNsvLZmWTwCNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3302.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View down from the viewpoint towards Parralillo reservoir. <br /> A very narrow and curvy road on the other side of it joins La Aldea and Acusa/Artenara </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> You can just follow the path to and back or you can vary just a little by going to the trig point. The end viewpoint of Altavista is not the top of the crest, so if you want to be able to say you’ve been to the top, you need to go out of the way a little and then come back to the main path. Or, once the trig point is done, you can continue along the crest, but that’s more scrambling than walking. If you are out for an easy walk, stick to the paths. If you are looking for a little adventure, go ahead and scramble to your heart’s content. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss7pKbe-1mk/YatxhUIHvEI/AAAAAAAAI5k/9WGheP3wLvYz4gUWMHHl0a5LR7KOcRknQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3227.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss7pKbe-1mk/YatxhUIHvEI/AAAAAAAAI5k/9WGheP3wLvYz4gUWMHHl0a5LR7KOcRknQCNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3227.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down to El Risco village, where the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2021/06/el-camino-del-cartero-postmans-path.html" target="_blank" title="El Camino del Cartero, The Postman's path, Gran Canaria @ this blog">Camino del Cartero</a> starts. <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2021/11/faneque-first-attempt.html" target="_blank" title="Faneque, the first attempt @ this blog">Faneque</a> to the right. <br /> I told you I can put names to many places, didn’t I? </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>The to-and-back from the Degollada del Sargento is between 9 and 10 kilometers, depending on whether you want to go out of the way a bit and explore. One of the possible mini-adventures is shortcutting across a stony outcrop, <a href="https://s2.wklcdn.com/image_85/2564984/30978464/19871984Master.jpg" target="_blank">Las Lajas de Jabón</a>, i.e. The Soap Flagstones. As you can see in the linked photo, the rocks are flat (hence Flagstones). They are also on a slope, slippery when wet (hence Soap) an absolute bugger to walk on after rains, so I’d discourage this little shortcut when there is water on the surface. As you can see from the same photo, the path runs just below and around the Flagstones, so you can simply follow it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zEABOU2XvQQ/Yaty-EnqT0I/AAAAAAAAI5s/MLUGquGOSi4ledtW0JAoaaBRgSRd9p0VQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3278.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zEABOU2XvQQ/Yaty-EnqT0I/AAAAAAAAI5s/MLUGquGOSi4ledtW0JAoaaBRgSRd9p0VQCNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3278.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The sparse pines on the western slope of Altavista peter out completely when you look towards La Aldea. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Well, there is little to add. Views are beautiful all the way, but you do need a day which is relatively open. On cloudy day, the tops of Altavista and its neighbour, Tamadaba massif, tend to be inside low clouds, so you will see little, if anything at all. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnnPieKFbTQ/Yatz2lE3tQI/AAAAAAAAI50/r7RDnGb6F2I2t3eJUcj4WBzhV1_GaIFOACNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3193.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnnPieKFbTQ/Yatz2lE3tQI/AAAAAAAAI50/r7RDnGb6F2I2t3eJUcj4WBzhV1_GaIFOACNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3193.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Something you can always see — the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/04/canary-island-pine.html" target="_blank" title="Flora of Gran Canaria — Canary Island Pine, Pinus canariensis @ this blog">Canary Pines</a> of all ages and sizes. Cute little glaucous shoots, about one year old. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Here is the <a href="http://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/degollada-del-sargento-montana-de-altavista-artenara-17831294" target="_blank" title="Degollada del Sargento - Montaña de Altavista (Artenara) @ Wikiloc">route</a>, with a small side branch close to the final viewpoint, darting to the trig point and back. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R2RFs_EPs0M/YauVvb10MxI/AAAAAAAAI58/3KZAZr8DnioBSGY9e2OQhjNb8X_kcIKtQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3297.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R2RFs_EPs0M/YauVvb10MxI/AAAAAAAAI58/3KZAZr8DnioBSGY9e2OQhjNb8X_kcIKtQCNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3297.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The fields of the plateau of Acusa (low center) were still yellow and dry when we went. <br /> They will be turning green soon, we had some good rains recently. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Just one more point. As I’ve already mentioned, you can <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/gran-canaria-artenara-montana-de-altavista-1639493" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria: Artenara - montaña de Altavista @ Wikiloc">start your walk in Artenara</a>, but that will add 9 km to the total distance, and that is not a short walk anymore, obviously. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tjiOzpm3ZgY/YaubIqKQLeI/AAAAAAAAI6E/b02jvP7VtyUsXIpYnh_3T7os20QAY9VUQCNcBGAsYHQ/s848/_MG_3310.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="848" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tjiOzpm3ZgY/YaubIqKQLeI/AAAAAAAAI6E/b02jvP7VtyUsXIpYnh_3T7os20QAY9VUQCNcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3310.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The zigzagging road in the background leads to Acusa. I can see a path running along the crest to its tip, may be worth exploring next time. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> I have a lot (and I mean A LOT) of photos of <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Artenara" target="_blank" title="Photos of Artenara by Tamara Kulikova">Artenara</a>, <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Altavista" target="_blank" title="Photos of Altavista by Tamara Kulikova">Altavista</a>, <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Teide" target="_blank" title="Photos of Teide by Tamara Kulikova">Teide</a>, <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Tamadaba" target="_blank" title="Photos of Tamadaba by Tamara Kulikova">Tamadaba</a> and <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Caldera+de+Tejeda" target="_blank" title="Photos of Caldera de Tejeda by Tamara Kulikova">Caldera de Tejeda</a> on <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?rid=2050" target="_blank" title="Profile of Tamara Kulikova @ Shutterstock">Shutterstock</a>. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-54432027657095433722021-11-20T17:12:00.018+00:002023-03-06T10:19:55.384+00:00Faneque, the first attempt<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5I7yckzkQeA/YZdzOpvCCdI/AAAAAAAAI2s/b3Xb5cA6swkr3h12dR8laxxMM-GdgRDbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3750.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5I7yckzkQeA/YZdzOpvCCdI/AAAAAAAAI2s/b3Xb5cA6swkr3h12dR8laxxMM-GdgRDbwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3750.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Faneque, as seen from Tamadaba campsite viewpoints. Teide floating serenely on his cushion of clouds </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> Faneque, the tallest above-sea cliff in Europe, is always very prominent when you are in the northwest of Gran Canaria. It looks infinitely majestic and quite, quite forbidding. The side view gives you an impression of a series of <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/gran-canaria-part-nature-park-tamadaba-1651285078" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria, part of Nature Park Tamadaba affected by forest fire, view towards Faneque, one of the tallest over-the-sea cliffs in the world. Photo by Tamara Kulikova">three plateaus, separated by sharp V-shaped drops</a>. Plus, people always talk about “the last platform” or “the last point”, which contributes to the same impression. It’s not really true, of which later. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6Cqe54IXsw/YZd1NinWrjI/AAAAAAAAI24/wpf6KOl-DlECMb7JN6cAysQ4JZ14uww6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_3749.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6Cqe54IXsw/YZd1NinWrjI/AAAAAAAAI24/wpf6KOl-DlECMb7JN6cAysQ4JZ14uww6gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3749.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The last platform is indeed not really accessible without equipment. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> We were looking at it for the longest time, thinking and hoping that after nearly two years of inactivity our favourite hiking group would restart its activities and then we could go there with them. Sadly, it looks like there is no chance of that, at least just yet. Then, while preparing on our visit to Altavista (which was spectacular, btw, and I am planning to write that up, too), and browsing through the info on wikiloc, I spotted a <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/circular-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-risco-de-faneque-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-45497039" target="_blank" title="Circular: Casa Forestal de Tamadaba - Risco de Faneque - Casa Forestal de Tamadaba @ Wikiloc">route</a> which mentioned Faneque and was marked, to my surprise, as “moderate”. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZ788DtgnLM/YZeS-zeQKeI/AAAAAAAAI3A/S3joglN5HfQGyDsZvnKAoEiqEXo32C4_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3761.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZ788DtgnLM/YZeS-zeQKeI/AAAAAAAAI3A/S3joglN5HfQGyDsZvnKAoEiqEXo32C4_wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3761.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The small village below is El Risco, and the sharp light-colored cape to the right, where you can see the waves breaking, is <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2020/11/grand-canyon-of-gran-canaria-punta-de.html" target="_blank" title="Grand Canyon of Gran Canaria — Punta de las Arenas or Playa de Artenara @ this blog">La Punta de Las Arenas</a> </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Further reading showed that it was only marked as moderate because in one place you need to scramble up a bit, a few meters’ ascent that I would hesitate to even call climbing. You have to go down the same bit on your way back. Apart from that, the <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/user.do?id=3538034" target="_blank" title="yosoyvida @ Wikiloc">user</a> who uploaded the route was qualifying it as “easy”! Yes, you won’t be able to proudly stand on the last plateau of Faneque, you could only approach and look at the crevice separating it from the rest of the crest, but it looked like a good start. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SqgBZkq33S0/YZeV6_PPW9I/AAAAAAAAI3I/tdrmqUpZt_suGeh6iYVqPIT77KRiRYxXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3763.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SqgBZkq33S0/YZeV6_PPW9I/AAAAAAAAI3I/tdrmqUpZt_suGeh6iYVqPIT77KRiRYxXgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3763.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As you walk along the crest, views open up on both sides. Here you can see, clockwise, Puerto de Las Nieves, Sartdina del Norte and the conical mountain of Gáldar. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> That was a point of no return, we just had to do it. And, I am happy to confirm, that the route is indeed easy, if you handle the heights well. The drop could be rather sharp, so if you suffer from vertigo, best not to attempt the last stretch of the walk. You can still have beautiful views from a safe place. </p>
<p>The <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/circular-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-risco-de-faneque-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-45497039" target="_blank" title="Circular: Casa Forestal de Tamadaba - Risco de Faneque - Casa Forestal de Tamadaba @ Wikiloc">route</a> we chose makes a circular out of what is essentially a linear walk. That is to say, if you do not wish to go though the camping area of Tamadaba, you can simply launch towards the tip of Faneque from the car park, but then you will miss the best views of the cliff itself — similar to the ones in the first two pictures. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UV0RCdzTzSs/YZehuR_ENeI/AAAAAAAAI3Q/vDVqoUMeSqcRMIt-u64frt1hCAX_Udk6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_3770.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UV0RCdzTzSs/YZehuR_ENeI/AAAAAAAAI3Q/vDVqoUMeSqcRMIt-u64frt1hCAX_Udk6wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3770.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View from the Las Lechugas viewpoint to the tip of Faneque </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> One more veering from the beeline is a viewpoint, Morro de Las Lechugas. The crest it sits on sticks at a slight angle from the main one. When seen from the side, it blends with the Faneque crest, making one of the <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/gran-canaria-january-views-hiking-path-1278986614" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria, January, views from hiking path La Ruta Del Cartero, Postman route, between Risco de Agaete and La Aldea de San Nicolas, towards Faneque, Europe tallest over-the-sea cliff. Photo by Tamara Kulikova">platforms</a> I mentioned in the beginning. There is a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triangulation_station" target="_blank" title="Triangulation station in Wikipedia">trig point</a> at the end of it, and the views are amazing. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EmoxAJPbTOI/YZeptdKRqAI/AAAAAAAAI3Y/B-0FJKGTqf4tvFiqOGH7aVUt1Yko2EUkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3780.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EmoxAJPbTOI/YZeptdKRqAI/AAAAAAAAI3Y/B-0FJKGTqf4tvFiqOGH7aVUt1Yko2EUkgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3780.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View down and north. Shadow rays are just about visible over the ocean </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> We went to Morro de Las Lechugas first and then re-took the direct path to Faneque. You can pass through the viewpoint on your way back, or, once again, ignore it altogether thus shortening the route somewhat. However, I’d advise a visit, it’s beautiful. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AnhZ_JXJQC4/YZeqvSVTD1I/AAAAAAAAI3g/lVm7wO_zxTUAGj-tS1DW86nZw9zJXntgwCLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_3785.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AnhZ_JXJQC4/YZeqvSVTD1I/AAAAAAAAI3g/lVm7wO_zxTUAGj-tS1DW86nZw9zJXntgwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3785.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back to the Morro de Las Lechugas as we went on, we noticed two people in the place we’d just been. And two rocky gorilla profiles with open mouths, one forming part of the other. Can you see them? </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After we passed Morro de Las Lechugas, the only relatively tricky bit of the path came up. First, you have to pass along a <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/circular-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-risco-de-faneque-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-45497039/photo-29924828" target="_blank" title="Photo of Circular: Casa Forestal de Tamadaba - Risco de Faneque - Casa Forestal de Tamadaba @ Wikiloc">narrow crest</a> joining two rocky outcrops. The pass is not difficult, but the drop on each side is sharp. And then comes the <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/circular-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-risco-de-faneque-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-45497039/photo-29924829" target="_blank" title="Another photo of Circular: Casa Forestal de Tamadaba - Risco de Faneque - Casa Forestal de Tamadaba @ Wikiloc">ascent of maybe 4 meters</a> where you need to use your hands. This is the only stretch that places this route into the “moderate” category. </p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oVdpQHsLb3E/YZevEJbICCI/AAAAAAAAI3o/pr6mGWIJawwVsS7wpSm8UsKw8Q0vvd6DACLcBGAsYHQ/s1554/_MG_3829.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1554" height="330" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oVdpQHsLb3E/YZevEJbICCI/AAAAAAAAI3o/pr6mGWIJawwVsS7wpSm8UsKw8Q0vvd6DACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h330/_MG_3829.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> And there you have it. El Risco village to the left, the final (unpassed by us yet) crevice just down, and the point of Faneque to the right. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7CBLFQhHUtw/YZewRnklTXI/AAAAAAAAI3w/1b1NZmzBfnIuoWvjfBg0dK5S38TlUH4JwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1357/_MG_3826.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1357" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7CBLFQhHUtw/YZewRnklTXI/AAAAAAAAI3w/1b1NZmzBfnIuoWvjfBg0dK5S38TlUH4JwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h378/_MG_3826.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The little platform on the top is waiting for us to come back. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> The whole path is well visible, and there are some official and unofficial markers along the way. Unless you start your walk in severe fog, which is not advisable in any case, there will be no problem finding your way. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-es3F35uR2I0/YZexChDaevI/AAAAAAAAI34/P5OzyrW41hcVPU80Pt72dXJXXht-8SYjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_3832.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-es3F35uR2I0/YZexChDaevI/AAAAAAAAI34/P5OzyrW41hcVPU80Pt72dXJXXht-8SYjQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3832.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The view north from the point where we couldn’t go any further. The pine tree grows on the edge of the flat platform. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> So, the walk is relatively easy and short. Getting to the start of the route is more problematic. Public transport can bring you to <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/artenara" target="_blank" title="Artenara @ this blog">Artenara</a>, but from there you are faced with a choice of walking to Tamadaba (which will add another 10 km each way), or taking a taxi, which could be difficult too, there aren’t many. So the only viable options are to drive or to join an organized walk with transport included. If the camping site in Tamadaba, which was shut down after the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/09/gran-canaria-after-forest-fire-2019.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria after forest fire 2019, Cruz de Tejeda — Artenara @ this blog">wildfire in 2019</a>, reopens some day, there will be the option of walking there, camping and doing a walk from the camp, but right now this is sadly not possible. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DG0YrDJu81M/YZe1C2gthOI/AAAAAAAAI4A/zA0CmUmm6jY1vCtfgMBCDxV2-3zCiOXGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3931.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DG0YrDJu81M/YZe1C2gthOI/AAAAAAAAI4A/zA0CmUmm6jY1vCtfgMBCDxV2-3zCiOXGgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3931.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morro de Las Lechugas from the final point of the walk, Tamadaba massif in the background. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Fortunately, organized activities seem to be coming back to life somewhat, so you should be able to find the way.</p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tw8_UJFT9U0/YZe2I29wOYI/AAAAAAAAI4I/pCbp-OCIcnopV8IooVh426_lXEn1p73IQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_3938.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tw8_UJFT9U0/YZe2I29wOYI/AAAAAAAAI4I/pCbp-OCIcnopV8IooVh426_lXEn1p73IQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_3938.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View back towards Teide on our way to the car. The pine tree most likely burned in 2019 </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> We ended up walking almost exactly 10 kilometers, slightly longer than it specifies in the <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/circular-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-risco-de-faneque-casa-forestal-de-tamadaba-45497039" target="_blank" title="Circular: Casa Forestal de Tamadaba - Risco de Faneque - Casa Forestal de Tamadaba @ Wikiloc">route description</a>, but otherwise it closely corresponds to our experience. </p>
<p> BTW, they are tunneling in Faneque right now, making a shortcut on the very tricky Agaete — La Aldea road. It is very much needed, of course, La Aldea is still extremely isolated and difficult to get to and out of, especially in emergency situations. Still, I find the thought of it a bit frightening. All this rock on top of a man-made tunnel. </p>
<p> Well, that’s it. We’re hoping to return some day and complete the experience, getting to the last platform, but I’d much rather do it with a guide familiar with the route. If we manage to do it, I will write it up too. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g6WpPgPGGy8/YZi-nSyS5VI/AAAAAAAAI4Q/sIlKBAHxtoAAeYjWcJGf4sCR5ns4oEReACLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_3939.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g6WpPgPGGy8/YZi-nSyS5VI/AAAAAAAAI4Q/sIlKBAHxtoAAeYjWcJGf4sCR5ns4oEReACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3939.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tamadaba bracken in autumnal glory </td></tr></tbody></table>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-54456394853472748282021-06-08T16:45:00.013+01:002023-03-03T11:02:49.742+00:00El Camino del Cartero, The Postman’s path, Gran Canaria <p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JZoj9JhaW1w/YK5-Y3NISmI/AAAAAAAAIsY/eot3S7r_kQUh_wwmffvzlOyB9X8op_2kQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9935.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JZoj9JhaW1w/YK5-Y3NISmI/AAAAAAAAIsY/eot3S7r_kQUh_wwmffvzlOyB9X8op_2kQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_9935.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Aldea de San Nicolás to the left. To the right, a new road. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> La Aldea de San Nicolás, or simply La Aldea, is the least accessible village of all on Gran Canaria. There are three roads leading to it — one from Mogan, another from Agaete, and another from the central part of the island, Artenara and Tejeda. All three of these roads are quite long on the island’s scale, narrow, curvy and difficult, and at least two of them close whenever it rains. Emergency services occasionally have to go to La Aldea by helicopter, which of course has its own limitations. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4lXqlsi3oE/YK5_6iKhEBI/AAAAAAAAIsk/iTQYK86U3YACjlxl5aCFCEt_9oGTJ9UqACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9934.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4lXqlsi3oE/YK5_6iKhEBI/AAAAAAAAIsk/iTQYK86U3YACjlxl5aCFCEt_9oGTJ9UqACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_9934.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View towards La Aldea. The white flat things are tomato fields covered by translucent plastic </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> But this is nothing in comparison to what it was before the roads were made. La Aldea sits, almost literally, in the middle of nowhere — a wide valley between mountain ranges, facing west towards Tenerife. To get there on foot or even using beasts of burden was an arduous task. Considering that it always was, and still is, a relatively small village with not much to offer*, it was almost certainly not worth the effort unless you had some sort of business there. </p>
<p> And postmen, of course, had little choice. Their job was to deliver the letters and parcels, and if somebody had a fancy to send something to La Aldea, well, there was no escape. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OwktQaKQ_2E/YLfbtLj_4mI/AAAAAAAAIu4/GyRgZGXgQngBg4q3R7oyuu95KsO3lK_pACLcBGAsYHQ/s1488/cairn.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1488" height="344" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OwktQaKQ_2E/YLfbtLj_4mI/AAAAAAAAIu4/GyRgZGXgQngBg4q3R7oyuu95KsO3lK_pACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h344/cairn.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View back towards the immense cliff Faneque. El Risco hidden behind the green hill on the right </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The postman route, a hike linking a tiny hamlet, El Risco, in the Agaete municipality and La Aldea, is quite a popular route with local hikers, but people from outside seldom find it. It runs parallel to the coast, along the second mountain crest inland, probably because the cliffs along the coast are exceptionally steep. There are paths in the first crest too, one of them along La Cola del Dragon, the Dragon’s Tail, but I haven’t explored them yet. </p>
<p> Now a part of the first surfaced Agaete — La Aldea road has been replaced by the new one**, making a shortcut through a tunnel and along the bottom of the valley. The old road is still partially operational and used mostly to get to one of the viewpoints, to get to the Tirma estate or to get to the beautiful <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2020/11/grand-canyon-of-gran-canaria-punta-de.html" target="_blank" title="Grand Canyon of Gran Canaria - Punta de las Arenas or Playa de Artenara @ this blog">beach of Artenara</a>. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnOHsK8qo38/YLfOoEpnGdI/AAAAAAAAIuU/SOeQYtvaPWIpx3kdEk6BoVcWVuqBVrKkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1337/withtenerife.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1337" height="382" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnOHsK8qo38/YLfOoEpnGdI/AAAAAAAAIuU/SOeQYtvaPWIpx3kdEk6BoVcWVuqBVrKkwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h382/withtenerife.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same walk, different weather. Teide is floating serenely on the sea of clouds </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> We did the Postman’s Path starting in El Risco. In retrospect, I think it would have been smarter to start in La Aldea. The problem with finishing a hike in La Aldea is that you, inevitably, end up walking long stretches of rocky descent totally exposed to the sun in the second half of the day, with the heat at its maximum. If you go in the
opposite direction, you will be walking between pines at least some of the afternoon, plus the descent is shorter and sharper, and the overall orientation of El Risco allows it to catch less sun. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBEnk1NjcmU/YLYTDjtrVFI/AAAAAAAAItw/fSRzR6z_6wwnkUgTrxc3GlpNMm1PAqVEwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9852.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IBEnk1NjcmU/YLYTDjtrVFI/AAAAAAAAItw/fSRzR6z_6wwnkUgTrxc3GlpNMm1PAqVEwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_9852.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Small white house belonging to the Tirma estate can be seen sitting in the pass, top right. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> You can, in theory, do this route using public transport, just be aware that the bus is very infrequent. Don’t get stuck in La Aldea, or in El Risco, for that matter. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCPC1N8j49A/YLYZbQKwGEI/AAAAAAAAIt4/yzL4UjNlCPE4sHdIRQ_NsZNaOgCe6wkfACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9857.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCPC1N8j49A/YLYZbQKwGEI/AAAAAAAAIt4/yzL4UjNlCPE4sHdIRQ_NsZNaOgCe6wkfACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_9857.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> A part closer to El Risco. The whole slope is full of grottoes, created after the lower layers of lava folds eroded away. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> For me, one of the most interesting things about this path is the presence of the colorful strata, sometimes very obvious, sometimes less so, which accompanies you all the way. The strata is a result of the same volcanic event as the spectacular “spring of tiles”, La fuente de Los Azulejos, in Mogan, on the other side of La Aldea. In Los Azulejos per se the colors are more saturated and the layer structure is more visible, but it is still the same thing, just more thinly stretched. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Pu9HJ5qV9A/YLdNoBf12QI/AAAAAAAAIuA/yr5ZeV3QHLIo16KGwhbpqVgmn3qf9Db5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1310/Azulejos_small.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1310" height="390" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4Pu9HJ5qV9A/YLdNoBf12QI/AAAAAAAAIuA/yr5ZeV3QHLIo16KGwhbpqVgmn3qf9Db5wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h390/Azulejos_small.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Los Azulejos, for reference only </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> On the Postman’s path, what is mostly visible is the green-cyan part of the strata, although occasionally you see some outcrops of dark magenta or yellow. Closer to La Aldea we noticed quite a few cairns which make a play with the colors of the rocks, as if someone was collecting colorful stones along the route to make cairns of them. Generally, closer to La Aldea, there was quite a lot of creativity in the cairns, as if they had a competition of some sort there at some point. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fV57VKKf5k0/YLfSbNbyP_I/AAAAAAAAIuc/lb6-VpQt0fwWp0AE7FfOgX0xFwHHYe87ACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_9898.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fV57VKKf5k0/YLfSbNbyP_I/AAAAAAAAIuc/lb6-VpQt0fwWp0AE7FfOgX0xFwHHYe87ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_9898.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> This small pine tree is casting its shadow on light green colored rock </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The hints of the colors of Los Azulejos can be seen in the rocks all the way along the route. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d5g3ABeJBKk/YLfT8l0uGOI/AAAAAAAAIuk/lQoHVvT5gQ8bbmhi0MkvPt-NxrUPs5gIQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_9894.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d5g3ABeJBKk/YLfT8l0uGOI/AAAAAAAAIuk/lQoHVvT5gQ8bbmhi0MkvPt-NxrUPs5gIQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_9894.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> An example. Not quite as bright, but still. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Closer to the El Risco end of the walk, inside a narrow shallow ravine, grows a special tree, marked as “La Sabina” in the route below. It’s an old juniper of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juniperus_turbinata" title="Juniperus turbinata in Wikipedia" target="_blank"><i>Juniperus turbinata</i></a> species. Apparently it was thought to be the Canary Islands’ own species, but genetic analysis shown otherwise. Undeterred, some patriotically minded people insist on adding subspecies qualifier “<i>canariensis</i>”. </p>
<p> While I recognize the tree’s landmark significance, I can’t say it is very impactful visually, because it sits at the bottom of a ravine and is surrounded by other large trees. The famous <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=juniper+El+Hierro" target="_blank" title="Photos of El Hierro juniper by Tamara Kulikova">Sabina of El Hierro</a> belongs to the same species, or the same subspecies, if you will, and that one is a lot more impressive. However, it is a nice shady spot to have a little break. </p>
<p> Another plant of note, at least for me, is the branched wormwood <a href="http://www.floradecanarias.com/artemisia_ramosa.html" title="Artemisia ramosa @ Flora Vascular de Canarias" target="_blank"><i>Artemisia ramosa</i></a>. It grows in the La Aldea valley, when you’ve finished the steep part of the descent and are about to embark on the final trudge into La Aldea. This is the only place on Gran Canaria where I know it grows. Endemic to Gran Canaria and Tenerife, this wormwood has an unusual scent. The “normal” Canary wormwood, called “<i>incienso</i>”, i.e. incense, has a bittersweet scent; and the branched one has a distinct hint of lemon to it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hry75GuKuDs/YLfGAd2uSoI/AAAAAAAAIuM/ZGegTQMmnJ4F8gR4Iw0cm_2w1M9JTeyVACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/artemisiaramosa.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hry75GuKuDs/YLfGAd2uSoI/AAAAAAAAIuM/ZGegTQMmnJ4F8gR4Iw0cm_2w1M9JTeyVACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/artemisiaramosa.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Artemisia ramosa</i>, branched wormwood, <i>incienso morisco</i> </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The route is approximately 16 km. It has more than a kilometer of accumulated ascent and descent, so it is definitely not an easy route. The nice thing about it though is that it first goes up and then down, without annoying undulating all the way along. </p>
<p> <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/ruta-del-cartero-el-risco-de-agaete-la-aldea-26213336" target="_blank" title="Ruta del Cartero: El Risco de Agaete - La Aldea @ Wikiloc">The Postman’s Path on wikiloc</a>. </p>
<p> The route is easy to follow, if in doubt, look for cairns and signs. The cairns are in plenty, the signs more sparse, but there is no getting lost. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gFsvVJwBjF8/YLfUYSSO9jI/AAAAAAAAIus/CjcR0LZ6gnQF-YiNrVscM5xWakagN4IfACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/0029723396-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1324" data-original-width="2048" height="414" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gFsvVJwBjF8/YLfUYSSO9jI/AAAAAAAAIus/CjcR0LZ6gnQF-YiNrVscM5xWakagN4IfACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h414/0029723396-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Better look at the old road between Agaete and La Aldea, weaving its way between the peaks. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> * This might be about to change though. If the island’s council succeeds with their plan to create a national park which will include the Guigui and <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Inagua" target="_blank" title="Photos of Inagua by Tamara Kulikova">Inagua</a> reserves, La Aldea will be the closest to the border of it. </p>
<p> ** We were lucky, sort of, to go by bus from Agaete to La Aldea while the new road was still a distant prospect. It was bloody terrifying. On some bits of it you have an overhanging rock wall, covered in wire netting, on one side, and a vertical, in this case literally, drop to the ocean on the other. </p>
<p> Pictures of the Postman’s Route on Shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Postman" target="_blank" title="Photos of the Postman’s Route by Tamara Kulikova">here</a>. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-53665131063137841152021-05-09T22:51:00.014+01:002023-03-06T13:39:40.106+00:00Risco Blanco — Pico de Las Nieves — Cañadon del Jierro, Gran Canaria <p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zzPE-u_XkDs/YJLcOSlb89I/AAAAAAAAIok/A_wXg1PSDm0ngZpRrpePySR6AVBoKDr_gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1356/_MG_8588.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1356" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zzPE-u_XkDs/YJLcOSlb89I/AAAAAAAAIok/A_wXg1PSDm0ngZpRrpePySR6AVBoKDr_gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h378/_MG_8588.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Risco Blanco, The White Cliff, shining under the sun. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> After we had been finally released into the wild post-quarantine, we successfully attempted several quite difficult hiking routes. The temporary (we continue to hope) closure of our <a href="http://www.arawakviajes.com/senderismo-canarias/" target="_blank" title="ARAWAK VIAJES | Senderismo">favourite hiking company</a> made us go where they’d probably never taken us, for the reason of it being too risky or too hard or both. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-reQLmXP0aiY/YJLoROcRlMI/AAAAAAAAIos/yCuPK9nhROwsiQXCngAQ5zqwvG5mOHUswCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0034156210-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-reQLmXP0aiY/YJLoROcRlMI/AAAAAAAAIos/yCuPK9nhROwsiQXCngAQ5zqwvG5mOHUswCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0034156210-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Same thing, different angle </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Risco Blanco — Pico de Las Nieves — Cañadon del Jierro circular route is one of Gran Canaria classics, a must for every local hiker. It is not very long — various tracks show between 15 and 18 kilometres — but it accumulates more than a kilometre of ascent and, obviously, more than a kilometre of descent. Some bits of it are quite steep, so much so that you go up on all four and go down sliding on your bum. Good fun all the way, if you like this sort of thing. I do. </p>
<p> I already did this route last year, just before we were locked up, but my companions didn’t, so it fell on me to be a guide. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--BIdToEkmL4/YJLsN-3UVfI/AAAAAAAAIo0/6IdwXWZ5MY0J5amT5r5ZnCbOOm_JGa08wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0034156527-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--BIdToEkmL4/YJLsN-3UVfI/AAAAAAAAIo0/6IdwXWZ5MY0J5amT5r5ZnCbOOm_JGa08wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0034156527-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Canary Pines find a way to grow in the crevices. I assume they contribute to the gradual breaking up of the cliff. You can see some huge pieces of rock at its foot. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> A year ago, we got a bit lost and ended up improvising. Having that in mind, I spent some time trying to get the relation between the map and the steep relief. Preparation paid off and we didn’t get lost this time. Well, almost. </p>
<p> The route being circular, you can start your walk pretty much anywhere along it where you can find parking. No public transport option is available for this one. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_RycGZLHjlw/YJgghWQ844I/AAAAAAAAIpU/LfLTGyKIRRUbCbQEyOpovtGTexZ4BzthgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0034156226-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_RycGZLHjlw/YJgghWQ844I/AAAAAAAAIpU/LfLTGyKIRRUbCbQEyOpovtGTexZ4BzthgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0034156226-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceiling of a cave close to the beginning of the route. Don’t know why so many colours, but I find it fascinating. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Two most logical places to start are <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/12/cruz-de-tejeda-pico-de-las-nieves.html" target="_blank" title="Cruz de Tejeda - Pico de Las Nieves @ this blog">Pico de Las Nieves</a>, the highest point of the island, and a tiny place called La Culata, very close to Risco Blanco. We did the second option, where you do the ascent first. I advise you to do the same, because the cliff is steeper than Cañadon, and I always find it safer to climb up near-vertical than to slide down near-vertical. </p>
<p>There is more than one Culata on the island, you need the one in Tirajana valley, at the foot of the White Cliff. When you are already in the hamlet, start looking for parking. At the time of our last visit, there was a dirt parking where the bed of Culata ravine meets with the road GC 654. Everything might change though, so if you see a good parking spot, just park. The road between Santa Lucia de Tirajana and La Culata is not for the fainthearted. It is narrow, quite curvy on all three axes and the surface is not the best. Be warned. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lAacauYT58o/YJgi_xXXeoI/AAAAAAAAIpc/HVMuOt7ukhYMk36m8CoS_Vbc1tOERb51wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0034156230-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lAacauYT58o/YJgi_xXXeoI/AAAAAAAAIpc/HVMuOt7ukhYMk36m8CoS_Vbc1tOERb51wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0034156230-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> More of the same. Check out the folds of rock to the upper left. Looks like a concertina </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p>The wikiloc route we took is <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/mountaineering-trails/gran-canaria-circular-al-risco-blanco-paso-del-perro-pico-las-nieves-canadon-del-jierro-91630" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria Circular al Risco Blanco Paso del Perro-Pico las Nieves cañadon del Jierro @ Wikiloc">here</a>, I would like to make just a few notes about the ascent. Once the path is located between grass and bushes, it is quite easy to follow at first. Easy to follow, because there are no other options, not because it is a walk in the park, you understand. There are quite a few cairns if you feel a but unsure, too. Then, after you have walked, scrambled and crawled for about two and a half kilometres, you suddenly find yourself in a relatively flat basin, full of vegetation. That was where we got lost in 2020. Look for a side path that goes steeply up to your right. It is marked with cairns, but easy to miss between the plants. It is only a hundred meters or so from the start of the basin, so if you feel like you already walked quite a bit more, come back and start again. </p>
<p> Having said that, even if you don’t locate the right path, just keep in mind that your aim is to get to the highest point of the island, and there are other paths. Please don’t just strike out at random though, always look for paths and cairns. It is difficult to get lost on such a small island, but you can get yourself into a place where you manage to climb up, but can’t get down. Ever seen a cat stuck on a tree? Yes, just like that. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-92eXe29KjS8/YJgp8do1c9I/AAAAAAAAIpk/LfYQ5rZwXH4Un2djNkj1NHBujowLeeroACLcBGAsYHQ/s1399/_MG_8589.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1399" height="366" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-92eXe29KjS8/YJgp8do1c9I/AAAAAAAAIpk/LfYQ5rZwXH4Un2djNkj1NHBujowLeeroACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h366/_MG_8589.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View over Tirajana valley, about half way into the ascent </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> One more reason just occurred to me why it makes more sense to do this circular starting with the ascent at Risco Blanco. You have to take your time with this route. It took us 7 hours in total, so the second half of it is done in the afternoon. In the afternoon Risco Blanco is fully exposed to the sun and there is practically no shade. The descent of Cañadon is done mostly between pine trees, except the very last stretch, but by then you are walking in a shadow of a hill. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPX2f6_eFFc/YJgwEoJo9nI/AAAAAAAAIps/YyJ4VcS5GOoW7BBzFH1e94MmTDVy_hoqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1300/_MG_8590.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="823" data-original-width="1300" height="406" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPX2f6_eFFc/YJgwEoJo9nI/AAAAAAAAIps/YyJ4VcS5GOoW7BBzFH1e94MmTDVy_hoqQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h406/_MG_8590.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Risco Blanco is already half-hidden by another cliff. The edge of the basin with vegetation can be seen in the lower right corner </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Once the path is found, it is again easy to follow, in the same sense as before. You scramble up any old how, but there are cairns and sometimes, when the rock is replaced by earth, the path itself gets visible. At some points you will be going away from your half-way target, Pico de las Nieves. Not to worry, it will get clearer when you eventually complete the steep part of the ascent and find yourself in a pine forest, about four kilometres into the route. There are dirt tracks in the forest, doubling on themselves, just keep in mind you are still going up and, all in all, in the direction of Pico de las Nieves. I must say we didn’t manage to find the shortcuts (marked as “<i>atajo</i>”) which the <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/mountaineering-trails/gran-canaria-circular-al-risco-blanco-paso-del-perro-pico-las-nieves-canadon-del-jierro-91630" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria Circular al Risco Blanco Paso del Perro-Pico las Nieves cañadon del Jierro @ Wikiloc">route</a> gives, but it didn’t bother us much, because the forest was full of <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2021/04/double-dose-of-spring-gran-canaria.html" target="_blank" title="Double dose of spring, Gran Canaria @ this blog">flowers</a> so the stroll along the track was very pleasant interlude between difficult bits. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0wgTsTay1g/YJg1XIpe0vI/AAAAAAAAIp0/jwYQSEWJVnAbhj10hL40iM12AMxq688MQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_8592.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0wgTsTay1g/YJg1XIpe0vI/AAAAAAAAIp0/jwYQSEWJVnAbhj10hL40iM12AMxq688MQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_8592.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View towards the south coast of the island before entering the forest </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Still following dirt roads, you leave the forest behind and come to a place where you can see a low eroded mountain covered in orange volcanic gravel, picon, with a few pine trees and a visible diagonal path going in the same direction as your road. Don’t know why exactly I didn’t make a few snaps there because the flowering plain in front of it was absolutely spectacular. Here is one from last year, not as nice but well, it’ll have to serve. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2AmBu_qeOSA/YJg3c6ct1hI/AAAAAAAAIp8/V6Iop7Q0j54H64G3EtR2H8PrtDaFzxj5QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0034156535-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2AmBu_qeOSA/YJg3c6ct1hI/AAAAAAAAIp8/V6Iop7Q0j54H64G3EtR2H8PrtDaFzxj5QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0034156535-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here. See the mountain? See the path? </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Follow the dirt track till it joins the GC-134 just in front of Pico de La Gorra with its multiple antennas of unclear use. Well, I say unclear. Not really. If the blur googlemaps apply to the area is anything to go by, most of them must be military. </p>
<p> Turn left onto GC-134 and follow it. Except for two small shortcuts, you will be going by the road till you come to Pico de Las Nieves with its beautiful viewpoint and ugly military installations behind the equally ugly fence. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9QZAX-B7Xo4/YJg53b7BKlI/AAAAAAAAIqE/rPHMCOckxRgFilqg-9Y92pHMzpSxh5kBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_7305.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9QZAX-B7Xo4/YJg53b7BKlI/AAAAAAAAIqE/rPHMCOckxRgFilqg-9Y92pHMzpSxh5kBQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_7305.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Views from <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/12/cruz-de-tejeda-pico-de-las-nieves.html" target="_blank" title="Cruz de Tejeda - Pico de Las Nieves @ this blog">Pico de Las Nieves</a> are spectacular, but occasionally there are no views at all </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> This time the clouds were hiding most of the landscape from us, but what we could see was just as stunning as ever. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JQLskkLTtAw/YJg66twUxNI/AAAAAAAAIqM/viWdwD9qyOsy0yq68z_Ytx1voIiv5PZUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_7253.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JQLskkLTtAw/YJg66twUxNI/AAAAAAAAIqM/viWdwD9qyOsy0yq68z_Ytx1voIiv5PZUgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_7253.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the white round cushions between the pines? They are Argyranthemums, marguerite daisies </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Here I come to a point where I stopped taking pics altogether, so let me give you just a few indicators. As you admire the beautiful scenery or the lack thereof, you will see a path going down in front of you. Well, they all go down from here, but you need the one which is a projection of the road you have just finished walking. The path is pretty obvious and runs steeply down till it comes to a pass where it forks into two, one that goes to Roque Nublo and another to the Llanos de la Pez. You don’t want either of them. Instead, you look left, where you see the view below.</p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_PZx24msda0/YJg9dEo6quI/AAAAAAAAIqU/-TqRV3Cq4w464MKoU-xU3f1FGT67mb34wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0032951994-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_PZx24msda0/YJg9dEo6quI/AAAAAAAAIqU/-TqRV3Cq4w464MKoU-xU3f1FGT67mb34wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0032951994-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View down into valley of Tirajana, where your car is waiting for you. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> And this is where, unless you change your mind there and then, you have to go. The “official” wooden sign doesn’t indicate the start of the path down, but many generation of hikers made the path quite obvious, plus there are cairns. So, off you go, down the first ravine, always checking for cairns. After the initial short and sharp descent, look for a path starting on your right. For a while the path will be following the folds of the cliff face, going mostly down. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-maPeTzB3dPY/YJhAFXT-8-I/AAAAAAAAIqc/bidacbkLpHcoxpf2W1uGzIJb0MF_h-jpwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0032408090-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-maPeTzB3dPY/YJhAFXT-8-I/AAAAAAAAIqc/bidacbkLpHcoxpf2W1uGzIJb0MF_h-jpwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0032408090-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View back towards Pico de Las Nieves </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Apart from the cairns, there are two markers that will indicate that you are going the right way. </p>
<p> First, the path will bring you to a hole in the rock, though which you will have to scramble. After that the path gets somewhat worse. I think there are a few places where there were rockfalls during the last year, after the winter rains probably. Still, there are cairns, so the path is findable. </p>
<p> Second, there are two planks and a metal cable. Sounds not much of a marker, but they are there for a good reason. This is the place where the horizontal temporary ceases to exist, so the planks are there to make sure you can pass these five or six meters of suspended horizontality. </p>
<p> Another recent rockfall obscured the path almost immediately after the planks. We did get lost at this point, trying to go down and coming, in a few dozen meters, to a sharp fall, where we were obliged to turn back. After a short search, we found the cairns once again, and what a relief it was. The path starts tuning left, then descends into a steep ravine and follows very close to the wall of the ravine on the right. Soon you find yourself looking along Tirajana valley once again, and the relative position of everything becomes clear. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cY-ijgA2GmY/YJhEmFMTA1I/AAAAAAAAIqk/a1grs9ya5vsIMFf0TmV3zA-OUyErw6SBgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0034156558-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cY-ijgA2GmY/YJhEmFMTA1I/AAAAAAAAIqk/a1grs9ya5vsIMFf0TmV3zA-OUyErw6SBgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0034156558-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks like <a href="http://myleconsdefrench.blogspot.com/" target="_blank" title="My leçons de French">my cat</a> is peeking from the edge of the photo. You passed along the crest of the wall in front of you, right to left, on your way to Pico de Las Nieves. Clear now? </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> I want to note that over the last year many unofficial paths got marked with cairns much better than I remember them. Probably hiking away from the well-trodden routes grew in popularity. We found it so along this route, and also on the walk to <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2020/10/ventana-del-bentayga-stone-arch.html" target="_blank" title="Ventana del Bentayga stone arch, interspecies kiss @ this blog">Ventana del Bentayga</a>, for example. </p>
<p> The path forks a few times and then the branches flow back together, and there are at least two more descents where you are sliding on your bum. But the most exciting bits are already behind, now it is just trudging on to the car. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j0L5hmClYkU/YJhGA0nLw6I/AAAAAAAAIqs/-oLWruouGzUqYp_PRbgkHu5gjCm3un4ywCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/0034156560-original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j0L5hmClYkU/YJhGA0nLw6I/AAAAAAAAIqs/-oLWruouGzUqYp_PRbgkHu5gjCm3un4ywCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/0034156560-original.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See a crocodile laying below the cliffs? </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After the last slide you find yourself on the top of a low long hill. If you are facing into the valley, La Culata and, hopefully, your car, is on your left. Walk along the crest of the hill for a bit, looking for a path going down on your left. The descent is relatively gentle, but full of the fine soil with seems to be more slippery then dry than when wet. Once at the bottom of the ravine, you have to cross it. Crossing is a bit tricky, because, once again, the recent rockfall changed the relief, filling the bed of the ravine with tractor-sizes stones. However, very considerate locals placed quite a few cairns to guide you, so you’ll be fine. Once on a cement track, take the right and you will shortly find yourself back on the GC 654 and can start looking for your vehicle. </p>
<p> The route we followed — <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/mountaineering-trails/gran-canaria-circular-al-risco-blanco-paso-del-perro-pico-las-nieves-canadon-del-jierro-91630" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria Circular al Risco Blanco Paso del Perro-Pico las Nieves cañadon del Jierro @ Wikiloc">here</a>. </p>
<p> Many pics taken in Las Cumbres, The Summits, of Gran Canaria — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Cumbres" target="_blank" title="Photos of Las Cumbres by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>
<p> It’s a difficult hike, but well worth it. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-48207906394896580962021-04-27T17:56:00.020+01:002023-03-06T15:23:42.803+00:00Double dose of spring, Gran Canaria<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-996X-pjWVNk/YIfFNRw5l8I/AAAAAAAAImE/Rj-1bnNjSHQP8wLiI_ATIuShRh-f7uqGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_4263.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-996X-pjWVNk/YIfFNRw5l8I/AAAAAAAAImE/Rj-1bnNjSHQP8wLiI_ATIuShRh-f7uqGQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_4263.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Almonds of Tejeda </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> This year, since we are allowed to go out and look at the beautiful spring of Gran Canaria, we try to do it as much as possible. Last spring, as I am sure everyone remembers, all or nearly all of Europe was in quarantine. What not everybody knows, perhaps, is how unnecessarily draconian the quarantine was in Spain. We were not allowed to go out of the house except for necessities. Said necessities didn’t include walking or any other form of outdoor physical exercise. Only dog owners were <a href="http://myleconsdefrench.blogspot.com/2020/04/il-y-des-regles-mais-les-gens-trouvent.html" target="_blank" title="Il y a des règles, mais... @ My leçons de French">allowed to walk their pets</a>, which give raise to infinite number of memes showing dogs being walked to exhaustion. </p>
<p> Even after we were finally allowed to get out a bit, the requirement of not getting too far from the house was imposed, thus preventing us from seeing the last flowers of spring. So, this year we try to compensate for that. I already did a number of hikes which I haven’t attempted before, and maybe I will write about some of them in details, but this post is here just to show the spring flowers and give very brief indicators as to where and when they could be seen. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pb1m2kjb11Q/YIfKux2DMYI/AAAAAAAAImM/lm8JxXTySioQFpgMgTlb1lCLVIr-UlmWgCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_4162.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pb1m2kjb11Q/YIfKux2DMYI/AAAAAAAAImM/lm8JxXTySioQFpgMgTlb1lCLVIr-UlmWgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_4162.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Salix canariensis</i>, Canary sallow </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> I start with <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Tejeda+almond" target="_blank" title="Photos of Tejeda almonds by Tamara Kulikova">almonds</a>, because I love almonds. They start flowering in January, sometimes even in December, and the peak of blossom tends to fall onto the end of January — beginning of February, but it all <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/03/almonds-of-tejeda-2018.html" target="_blank" title="Almonds of Tejeda, 2018 @ this blog">depends on the weather</a>. </p>
<p> Almonds flower in many places on Gran Canaria, but the most popular <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=hanami" target="_blank" title="Photos of hanami by Tamara Kulikova">hanami</a> routes go around Caldera de Tejeda in the center of the island. After the wildfire of 2019 some of the trees on the north side of the caldera perished, so I reckon that now the best route to see the almonds is Tejeda — Cruz de Timagada, which can be made into a <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/tejeda-cruz-de-timagada-circular-gran-canaria-43166898" target="_blank" title="Tejeda - Cruz de Timagada Circular. GRAN CANARIA @ Wikiloc">circular</a> or you can just walk a bit of it and come back. A bonus is that you can do this using the public transport. The Canary sallow tree, <i>Salix canariensis</i>, shows its little fluffy catkins around the same time. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qOnsYz__nT8/YIfOpMC_VrI/AAAAAAAAImU/ZunwTZ0lBos9iZCM55tzMYGyKWzqJpqYACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_4294.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qOnsYz__nT8/YIfOpMC_VrI/AAAAAAAAImU/ZunwTZ0lBos9iZCM55tzMYGyKWzqJpqYACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_4294.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Lavandula canariensis</i>, Canary lavender </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Almonds and sallows don’t last long, but Canary lavender flowers can be seen for a few months all over the island, starting from the altitude of a few hundred meters. Over the years I have been observing how the flora changes in certain areas, and this year, I quite liked the combination of flowers which we saw around <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/09/cenobio-and-tagoror-montana-del-gallego.html" target="_blank" title="Cenobio and Tagoror, Montaña del Gallego @ this blog">Tagoror del Gallego</a> — there were lavender, asphodels and marguerites, growing between the spurges. The picture above taken in January. </p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ekfyiICNr8w/YIfQ-0utEsI/AAAAAAAAImc/1gBGMWRZDBsiB5-HONbacf2TYb3qEWabgCLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_3689.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ekfyiICNr8w/YIfQ-0utEsI/AAAAAAAAImc/1gBGMWRZDBsiB5-HONbacf2TYb3qEWabgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3689.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not a flower picture, obviously, but since we are on Tagoror now: Teide on Tenerife proudly shows his snow cover, a rare sight indeed </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTLHkogVktQ/YIfR9fwYAUI/AAAAAAAAImk/Rx2eOXGodkUmx5jEcGpifbtHDlXD1EViQCLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_3927.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTLHkogVktQ/YIfR9fwYAUI/AAAAAAAAImk/Rx2eOXGodkUmx5jEcGpifbtHDlXD1EViQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_3927.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Argyranthemum</i> or marguerite daisy</td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> Marguerite daisies start appearing in January—February, depending on the species and place. The peak of bloom falls onto the first half of April, when the round, almost semi-spherical plants are covered in flowers and look like flocks of white sheep on the slopes of the Summits of Gran Canaria, Las Cumbres. This year, we observed the most of them around Pico de Las Nieves, the highest point of the island. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3q91jZVfLLI/YIfcusVtoQI/AAAAAAAAIms/n5StZflDipQwx6c9_HmGKagTSk-hOEqegCLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_5019.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3q91jZVfLLI/YIfcusVtoQI/AAAAAAAAIms/n5StZflDipQwx6c9_HmGKagTSk-hOEqegCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_5019.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pericallis webbii</i>, endemic of Gran Canaria </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Locally called Flor de Mayo, i.e. May flower, <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Pericallis+webbii" target="_blank" title="Photos of Pericallis webbii by Tamara Kulikova"><i>Pericallis webbii</i></a> flowers for nearly half a year. Some slopes turn magenta when it is at its maximum maximorum. They grow pretty much everywhere, but they need high humidity to display all their splendor, so the best places to look for them are around <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=San+Mateo" target="_blank" title="Photos of San Mateo by Tamara Kulikova">San Mateo</a>, <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Teror" target="_blank" title="Photos of Teror by Tamara Kulikova">Teror</a> and <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Valsequillo" target="_blank" title="Photos of Valsequillo by Tamara Kulikova">Valsequillo</a>. The photo above was taken at <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Santa+Maria+de+Guia" target="_blank" title="Photos of Santa María de Guía by Tamara Kulikova">Santa María de Guía</a>. There is a little mountain behind the center of the town which explodes into flower in March, to dry out in May. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kZ6s-jTrqMI/YIfgBxnecwI/AAAAAAAAIm0/prxx394wEAITcpEI40DYVjhxAirEBDvzACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_6213.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kZ6s-jTrqMI/YIfgBxnecwI/AAAAAAAAIm0/prxx394wEAITcpEI40DYVjhxAirEBDvzACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_6213.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Small mantis <i>Ameles gracilis</i> on the flowers of yellow broom <i>Teline microphylla </i></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> In March, yellow broom <i>Teline microphylla</i> starts to flower in the mountains. The flowering time depends very much on the orientation of the slope on which it is growing. Right now, in the end of April, you can find the bushes in all stages of flowering — some already fully done with it, some just starting. Although easily burned by wildfires, this plant propagates equally easily, covering whole mountains in yellow. This year, the most yellow patches were along the route Cruz de Tejeda — San Mateo, passing through Hoya de Gamonal. </p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vhzR4Wj7bMQ/YIf182-AxEI/AAAAAAAAIm8/p5CwCd9zd6sMnT_awVyzuzF6gFdszWaSACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/_MG_6120.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1297" data-original-width="2048" height="406" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vhzR4Wj7bMQ/YIf182-AxEI/AAAAAAAAIm8/p5CwCd9zd6sMnT_awVyzuzF6gFdszWaSACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h406/_MG_6120.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the peak, all you can see are the yellow flowers, stems and leaves well hidden </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEOo304sU_o/YIf2kRH08CI/AAAAAAAAInE/MXmOQpMZg7sjRrHUC1sOYAEX6dnDUItWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1575/_MG_6803.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1575" height="326" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pEOo304sU_o/YIf2kRH08CI/AAAAAAAAInE/MXmOQpMZg7sjRrHUC1sOYAEX6dnDUItWwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h326/_MG_6803.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Eschscholzia californica</i>, the California poppy </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Eschscholzia+californica" target="_blank" title="Photos of Eschscholzia californica by Tamara Kulikova"><i>Eschscholzia californica</i></a>, the California poppy is an obviously introduced species. It is considered invasive, but it is undeniably beautiful, probably the most beautiful of all the invasive species on the island. There are whole fields of them around San Mateo, probably all escapes from a single garden years ago. If you wish to see them, start walking on one of the routes leading to Pico de las Nieves. In some places they happily mix with the <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=red+poppy+Gran+Canaria" target="_blank" title="Photos of red poppy by Tamara Kulikova">common red poppy</a>, <i>Papaver rhoeas</i>. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPDvfRFVPXQ/YIf42pjZ1iI/AAAAAAAAInM/QL4tS1h5X8MltZPwCzdgaazNb_rSU6SdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_7857.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPDvfRFVPXQ/YIf42pjZ1iI/AAAAAAAAInM/QL4tS1h5X8MltZPwCzdgaazNb_rSU6SdgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_7857.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Field poppy </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Field poppies grow in many places. For the maximum mix of flowers, including the poppies, I would recommend the routes which go up from Tenteniguada village to Caldera de los Marteles and towards Pico de las Nieves. Going there in the first half of April, you will see amazing mixture of shapes and colors. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iYAS9cSzODs/YIf6kEyIonI/AAAAAAAAInU/-_dYwhp3G2YZgMSbYJNN8pkhcbiNbHt0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/_MG_6468.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1630" data-original-width="2048" height="510" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iYAS9cSzODs/YIf6kEyIonI/AAAAAAAAInU/-_dYwhp3G2YZgMSbYJNN8pkhcbiNbHt0wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h510/_MG_6468.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Echium callithyrsum</i>, blue bugloss of Tenteniguada </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Speaking of Tenteniguada. This is where you find probably the most appreciated flower of Gran Canaria, on par with almonds. <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/04/tajinaste-azul-and-other-delights.html" target="_blank" title="Tajinaste azul and other delights @ this blog"><i>Echium callithyrsum</i></a>, blue bugloss of Gran Canaria, endemic and endangered in the wild, grows in large numbers around Rincon de Tenteniguada. There are two main hiking routes that start in the Rincon — one leading to the Caldera de los Marteles, and another up along the ravine Barranco de la Pasadera. Both steep, especially the ravine one. If you wish, you can link the two in their upper points and make a <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/barranco-de-la-pasadera-tenteniguada-caldera-los-marteles-17930678" target="_blank" title="Barranco de la Pasadera-Tenteniguada-Caldera los Marteles @ Wikiloc">circular walk</a> out of it. The buglosses flower along both routes. Maximum flowering is in the first half of April, and both routes are a riot of colors. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P1H2qIzxenI/YIghr9XmkVI/AAAAAAAAInc/ma48-Yd2M_MwquoaAXJGBE6c3kVcI1dmwCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_6574.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P1H2qIzxenI/YIghr9XmkVI/AAAAAAAAInc/ma48-Yd2M_MwquoaAXJGBE6c3kVcI1dmwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_6574.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Canarina canariensis</i>, Canary bellflower, Barranco de la Pasadera </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Barranco de la Pasadera is the only place where I know a pure yellow specimen of <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Canarina+canariensis" target="_blank" title="Photos of Canarina canariensis by Tamara Kulikova"><i>Canarina canariensis</i></a>, Canary Bellflower, grows. Normally the flowers of Canarina are orange with red veins, but not this one. Not sure why, but there you go, just a little local curiosity. It is found not far from the start of the ravine, within one kilometer, but the ascent is steep, be warned. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--xuIU5_38Rs/YIgjJzDctZI/AAAAAAAAInk/1-vchiFShrELCdfCYxVPPl6SkdFODphXACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_7713.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--xuIU5_38Rs/YIgjJzDctZI/AAAAAAAAInk/1-vchiFShrELCdfCYxVPPl6SkdFODphXACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_7713.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Gonospermum ferulaceum</i>, sticky tansy </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> This year it was the first time I saw <i>Gonospermum ferulaceum</i>, sticky tansy, in the wild. Before I only saw it in the Jardin Canario, Canary Botanical Garden, and in passing from the bus window, but this year, I feel very lucky to catch it in bloom on a gorgeous <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2020/11/grand-canyon-of-gran-canaria-punta-de.html" target="_blank" title="Grand Canyon of Gran Canaria — Punta de las Arenas or Playa de Artenara @ this blog">walk to Punta de las Arenas</a>. </p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-whFSN8YyqZw/YIgksElOXbI/AAAAAAAAIns/FR8-ZRVl8eIA8ZiZu-oxpVHJi9D5YsQqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_7108.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-whFSN8YyqZw/YIgksElOXbI/AAAAAAAAIns/FR8-ZRVl8eIA8ZiZu-oxpVHJi9D5YsQqwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_7108.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> To put it into context. Quite something, isn’t it? </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cjitwiycXv4/YIglD978d0I/AAAAAAAAIn0/doAH99I7am4ILZcGsg0mygAOjvl7iyflACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_7232.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cjitwiycXv4/YIglD978d0I/AAAAAAAAIn0/doAH99I7am4ILZcGsg0mygAOjvl7iyflACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_7232.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> I feel like maybe I should stop soon, so... Here is a nice mixture of Canary buttercups, marguerite daisies and <i>Erysimum albescens</i>, a species of wallflower, growing and flowering together around Caldera de los Marteles </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> I guess I’d better stop about now. To summarise — if you are as much into flowers as I am and have the slightest opportunity to come to the mountains of Gran Canaria in spring, come in the beginning of April. You won’t regret it, I promise. I have hiking companions who are in general indifferent to all things floral, but even they are impressed by the sheer exuberance of the island spring. </p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07UiSqjeSZg/YIgmzrlC3XI/AAAAAAAAIn8/9Ez3ou0HNJ4Hjw7umBpkT0bq9hU7kCwOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6555.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07UiSqjeSZg/YIgmzrlC3XI/AAAAAAAAIn8/9Ez3ou0HNJ4Hjw7umBpkT0bq9hU7kCwOwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_6555.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Ranunculus cortusifolius</i>, Canary buttercup </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XkwByA_-nRE/YIgnGqoX7aI/AAAAAAAAIoE/vppeXk8Euzw13kQxtCmxarHbo-N5he2VwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6776.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XkwByA_-nRE/YIgnGqoX7aI/AAAAAAAAIoE/vppeXk8Euzw13kQxtCmxarHbo-N5he2VwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h320/_MG_6776.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Erysimum albescens</i>, a species of wallflower </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> Above are just some species of flowers you will see on Gran Canaria in spring, I won’t dream of trying to squeeze all of them in one post. And my absolute favourite, <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2016/07/flora-of-gran-canaria-tanacetum.html" target="_blank" title="Flora of Gran Canaria — Tanacetum ptarmiciflorum, silver lace plant @ this blog">silver tansy</a>, hasn’t even started flowering yet. I am so looking forward to it. </p>
<p> Some pics of the flora of Gran Canaria — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara/sets/194903813" target="_blank" title="Flora of Gran Canaria - photos by Tamara Kulikova">here</a>. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-50565455069966828732020-11-15T15:21:00.009+00:002023-03-06T16:41:47.498+00:00Barranco Hondo, the Deep Ravine, and Salinas de Tenefe<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GQn7Px3RRsA/X619hlbypAI/AAAAAAAAIXw/eWa4Wmb9vZ4tUhXplj8I1coYVOgwrbS5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_1483.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GQn7Px3RRsA/X619hlbypAI/AAAAAAAAIXw/eWa4Wmb9vZ4tUhXplj8I1coYVOgwrbS5gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_1483.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Impressive cliffs </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> The second walk we’ve done in a very short stretch of time — we are all worried that our long awaited freedom will be suddenly taken from us again — is another one that was new for me. The south of the island is full of deep and steep ravines, and one of them has a double arch, called Arco del Coronadero. Of course, we had to go, because, as the famous saying goes, “it’s there”. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7yR98OJgN4c/X61-mtfsrXI/AAAAAAAAIYA/4tPiNMrIDgAJRoOdxC-iPUS_tvv-iY-TACLcBGAsYHQ/s1575/_MG_1421.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1575" height="326" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7yR98OJgN4c/X61-mtfsrXI/AAAAAAAAIYA/4tPiNMrIDgAJRoOdxC-iPUS_tvv-iY-TACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h326/_MG_1421.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Euphorbias large enough for all the King’s horses and all the King’s men to get lost in </td></tr></tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>
<p> Barranco Hondo, The Deep Ravine, opens to the ocean between the small village Juan Grande and the coastal resorty place Bahia Feliz. The number one bus has a stop at the beginning of the walk, at the stop La Machacadora, a rock crushing place right in the mouth of the ravine. We went by car, because the bus makes all the stops and is excruciatingly slow. The bus stop is close to a roundabout, and there is a parking space next to it used by fishermen and hikers. You can park even closer to the start of the hike, if you go towards the rock factory. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf6JyO7X2b8/X61-PD-JINI/AAAAAAAAIX4/2f9H0I4ZXyUIbja009pX5kVqsnWmPFAWACLcBGAsYHQ/s1399/_MG_1451.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1399" height="412" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf6JyO7X2b8/X61-PD-JINI/AAAAAAAAIX4/2f9H0I4ZXyUIbja009pX5kVqsnWmPFAWACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h412/_MG_1451.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> That moment when you suddenly come to the edge </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> So, after parking or getting off the bus, you go along the road that goes towards the center of the island, and passes through a short tunnel under GC-1, the main motorway. Immediately after you go under it, turn left into a dirt track, and then turn right, into a very dirty plain full of spiny plants where a lot of plastic bags end up caught up. This is a quite exceptionally ugly place, but don’t panic, it gets better quickly. You are already in the mouth of the Barranco Hondo, so, although there are no obvious paths, there is no chance of getting lost either. A rock wall, still quite low at this point, starts on your left, and La Machacadora is on the right. Start walking inland, and in less than a kilometer, you hit a dirt track going into the ravine, which by then already has its two walls present and correct. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yTHx73N_Aq4/X61_evLEkJI/AAAAAAAAIYM/4ge9GIXLUf0hF5RmXNbfKbYedxgPZxCHwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1303/_MG_1465.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1303" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yTHx73N_Aq4/X61_evLEkJI/AAAAAAAAIYM/4ge9GIXLUf0hF5RmXNbfKbYedxgPZxCHwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h392/_MG_1465.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Star attraction, sort of </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> As you go deeper into the ravine, it gets quite interesting, with a lot of caves and grottoes on both sides. Considering that they continue to find new sites of archeological value in much better explored places, like <a href="http://www.laprovincia.es/gran-canaria/2020/02/21/cueva-guayadeque-contiene-restos-72-8304298.html" target="_blank" title="La cueva de Guayadeque contiene restos de al menos 72 antiguos canarios @ La Provincia">Barranco de Guayadeque</a>, I am sure there is a lot still to find in Barranco Hondo.</p><p>There are various points of interest in this walk, and one of them is a tunnel dug between two ravines, which you need to go through to get to the arch. Of course, there are alternatives, if you are claustrophobic, but if not, it is just a little adventure to add to the whole experience. You will find the tunnel on your left, at about 3 km from the start of the walk. The tunnel is meant to catch the rainwater, but the rains are far and few between, so we found it completely dry. The length of it is about 200 meters, it gets low in some points so you need to hunch down a bit, and the floor is not even. Bring a torch and mind your head and where you go at the same time. The exit of the tunnel is always visible. The entrance of tunnel itself is unmissable. I am writing that here because I was somewhat worried about missing it myself. As an additional reference point, right after the tunnel there is a metal mesh barrier across the ravine, so that a vehicle can’t get past. Hikers can, however, as the path goes to the right of the barrier, so if you are not in the mood for tunneling, you can walk along the bottom of the ravine. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4mnW29MoeGU/X62AQHZppZI/AAAAAAAAIYU/cN8JSmHpnFUu4QOMsNTQ0vLHydkIG2Z0gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1304/_MG_1481.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1304" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4mnW29MoeGU/X62AQHZppZI/AAAAAAAAIYU/cN8JSmHpnFUu4QOMsNTQ0vLHydkIG2Z0gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h392/_MG_1481.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Maybe a less than perfect day to photograph the arch, but at least now I know where it is. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> So, right after the tunnel, start looking for a path, rather steep initially, which goes to your right and up. If you are not sure, keep in mind the the arch is on the top of the wall of the ravine you just left via tunnel. So you have to sort of double back a bit, while continuing going up and inland. Once on the top of the wall, things get clearer, because you find Barranco Hondo, a spectacular, near-vertical drop at this point, on your right, and relatively flat space with quite a few visible paths on your left. Find a path which runs along the ravine and follow it, at some point some branches will go right to the drop, and that’s where you find the arches. The distance from the start is about four and a half kilometers. </p>
<p> Now the arches. There are two, one considerably bigger that the other. To obtain the classic view similar to <a href="https://s2.wklcdn.com/image_6/208037/18187414/11475212Master.jpg" target="_blank">this one</a> you need to go through both and down. However, when we got there, it was drizzling, and what with a sheer drop to the bottom of the ravine and with the stones being slippery, we decided to leave it for some other time. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGF9QNhuo38/X62BKDn8iOI/AAAAAAAAIYg/fSWE1fq5naoSL-eMDJTEwCuAbo_NiZALgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1567/_MG_1563.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1567" height="326" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGF9QNhuo38/X62BKDn8iOI/AAAAAAAAIYg/fSWE1fq5naoSL-eMDJTEwCuAbo_NiZALgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h326/_MG_1563.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> We have a completed Sagrada Familia project right here, don’t you agree? </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Now, the next point of uncertainty. Not to retrace our steps completely, we wanted to go down somehow. In all the routes we looked at, this particular bit of the hike, whether done in ascent or descent, is always marked as tricky. I can report that when you start from the top, as we did, finding the path doesn’t present a problem. As you stand facing the barranco and to the left of the arches, it is clearly visible to your left. The pass where it starts is about twenty meters away from the arch. </p>
<p> It was marked as tricky, and tricky it was. The path is steep and full of small loose stones. In retrospect, I would have preferred to make it as an ascent, taking the whole route in reverse. At the same time I think it would have been much more difficult to find the start of the ascent from the bottom of the ravine. Having said that, there are cairns, and there is no getting lost here either — you need to get to the bottom of the ravine, that’s all there is to it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ORt98USP3Nc/X62Bgs8h4gI/AAAAAAAAIYo/1StcYyuBRBgYQrlAmX4MDCb7HaKnfP7lACLcBGAsYHQ/s800/_MG_1572.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ORt98USP3Nc/X62Bgs8h4gI/AAAAAAAAIYo/1StcYyuBRBgYQrlAmX4MDCb7HaKnfP7lACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_1572.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The number of caves is astonishing. Combined with the height of the walls, they create a “skyscraper in ruins” look </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Now, once you are (hopefully) at the bottom of the ravine, you just follow it down, eventually coming back to the metal mesh barrier and the tunnel and starting to retrace your steps. Don’t forget to look around you and behind, however, because I believe this was the most spectacular part of the whole hike. Try as I may, my photos don’t give this place justice. You should go and see with your own eyes. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mU52vJugIEI/X62Bv3524QI/AAAAAAAAIYs/Fyb3y_WdGEUDBI4LZXZ1jPx-5cSK1_aGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1412/_MG_1611.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1412" height="408" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mU52vJugIEI/X62Bv3524QI/AAAAAAAAIYs/Fyb3y_WdGEUDBI4LZXZ1jPx-5cSK1_aGgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h408/_MG_1611.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Salinas de Tenefe </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After we finished our hike, and since we were there anyway, we went to <a href="http://salinasdepozoizquierdo.es/" target="_blank" title="Salinas de Pozo Izquierdo – todo sobre naturaleza">Salinas de Tenefe</a>, salt evaporation pans very close to Pozo Izquierdo, famous for its windsurfing center. The salt pans are maintained in very good conditions and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunaliella_salina" target="_blank" title="Dunaliella salina in Wikipedia"><i>Dunaliella salina</i></a> algae give them a peculiar pink-orange color. They are a pleasure to photograph. The first time I was there they were completely open, that is to say, you could go down right next to the pans wherever you liked, but now there is a sign asking not to do that. You can still approach the salt pans from a stone terrace in front of a cute white and blue building which houses a salt storage place/visitors center and a shop. We went there to do just that, but a funny episode made us forget the original intention. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdct1G0pSvI/X7EzTkiwhJI/AAAAAAAAIZQ/DolajFY8dis62WwM_wQiDjxt1F5BZQrbACLcBGAsYHQ/s1257/_MG_1591.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1257" height="408" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tdct1G0pSvI/X7EzTkiwhJI/AAAAAAAAIZQ/DolajFY8dis62WwM_wQiDjxt1F5BZQrbACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h408/_MG_1591.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Another angle </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Once in front of the shop, I asked a guy who was hanging around under which name the salt is commercialized. I do that, you know. Ask questions, that is. He started expositing about the various types of salt they make and we ended up in their small shop. There were two guitars on the benches there. So I asked, as I do, what’s up with the guitars. While continuing to explain, the guy called his companion, who entered the shop, picked up one of the guitars and started playing and singing. The song was all about kisses he would like to give to his beloved, so singing was accompanied by very loud kissing sound imitations. After this unexpected performance I totally lost the original aim that I had in mind, and who wouldn’t. And I now have a pack of quite expensive sea salt, multiple award winner and all, to give to somebody “when it is all over” and travel is possible again. I keep accumulating those little gifts, hoping and waiting, hoping and waiting. </p>
<p> Route that we followed — <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/san-bartolome-de-tirajana-arco-del-coronadero-y-barranco-hondo-18187409" target="_blank" title="SAN BARTOLOMÉ DE TIRAJANA: Arco del Coronadero y Barranco Hondo @ Wikiloc">here</a>. There are others, of course, and you can omit the tunnel and/or tricky ascent and descent. </p>
<p> More photos from The Deep Ravine — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Barranco+Hondo+Juan+Grande" target="_blank" title="Photos of Barranco Hondo by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> and from the salines — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Salinas+Tenefe" target="_blank" title="Photos of Salinas de Tenefe by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-75870891118481615432020-11-10T18:26:00.014+00:002023-03-06T08:39:25.455+00:00Grand Canyon of Gran Canaria — Punta de las Arenas or Playa de Artenara <p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Q-0_AI2jAY/X6ps6N2PbMI/AAAAAAAAIVM/LbUTEvp_JNQWu--rjA0tY0CUFCCP3FsrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/_MG_1816.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1254" data-original-width="2048" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Q-0_AI2jAY/X6ps6N2PbMI/AAAAAAAAIVM/LbUTEvp_JNQWu--rjA0tY0CUFCCP3FsrQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h392/_MG_1816.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smooth sandstone walls, arches, caves and grottoes </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> While we continue to live in a situation where very few leisure things work*, we have to make do on our own the best we can. Last week we arranged a couple of hikes and I would like to record them. I’ll start with the last one, a hike to Punta Arenas aka Punta de las Arenas, Punta de las Arenas Blancas, a relatively short hike between the old road to La Aldea de San Nicolas and a light colored sandstone cape below it. The various names of the place all refer to Arenas, i.e. sands. I read that what is now sandstone used to be the sand of a beach which due to geological processes has risen above the level of the sea and is now effectively a fossil of a beach. The sandstone is pale yellow, hence the name of Arenas Blancas, i.e. white sands. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fP59TgIkhBY/X6qWlaGf4WI/AAAAAAAAIVY/vqmSn9A0yWIgVqkR6UUS2KjhLluLUR-CACLcBGAsYHQ/s1703/_MG_1629.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1703" height="338" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fP59TgIkhBY/X6qWlaGf4WI/AAAAAAAAIVY/vqmSn9A0yWIgVqkR6UUS2KjhLluLUR-CACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h338/_MG_1629.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The cape, as seen from the beginning of the walk. Most of the path down is done in the shade </td></tr></tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>
<p> Some time ago a friend showed me various photos and <a href="http://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/punta-de-las-arenas-playa-de-la-virgen-artenara-gran-canaria-53429414" target="_blank" title="Punta de las Arenas, playa de la Virgen. Artenara. Gran Canaria @ Wikiloc">videos</a> of spectacular sandstone ravines at the western edge of Gran Canaria. It was so beautiful, I immediately wanted to go. </p>
<p> Unfortunately, there is no way to get there by public transport, unless you feel inclined to start somewhere in the center of the island or in La Aldea or Agaete, make a veeery long hike and spend a night on the cape. As a fitness challenge, I guess you could go and come back on the same day, but I’d consider that a bit of madness. The whole area is also called Playa de Artenara, because that’s where the coast of the Artenara municipality is, but it would be a mistake to think that it is somewhere close to Artenara village — a mistake that some tourists anecdotally commit from time to time. Artenara village is the highest village on the island and very close to its geographical center, so... don’t go to the village if you wish to go to the cape. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gggMgPt1up4/X6qZwwR6vBI/AAAAAAAAIVk/3vfSPj17et0La03-7cZvAwEiMjwyawxHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1329/_MG_1770.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1329" height="386" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gggMgPt1up4/X6qZwwR6vBI/AAAAAAAAIVk/3vfSPj17et0La03-7cZvAwEiMjwyawxHgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h386/_MG_1770.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful. I believe the stripes are called Liesegang bands, feel free to correct me </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> So. How to get there? A bit tricky, admittedly. Up to about two years ago, the most difficult and the most spectacular road on the island was one between La Aldea de San Nicolas and Agaete. It still is quite difficult, but around that time a long tunnel, the first of at least two planned, was opened between El Risco and La Aldea, thus cutting the travel time by about 25 minutes and making the whole thing a lot safer. The old road was partially cut, so some of the most breath-taking twists and turns are not there anymore. But the old road is still there up to a certain point — to the turn to dirt track that goes to the Tirma estate. There is a metal barrier and that’s where you can park your car. On foot, you go around the barrier and in about thirty meters along the unused road there is a stone-paved viewpoint with a sign “Anden Verde”. On the edge of the viewpoint the real hike starts, first as a paved path going down to a ruined house. The ruined house is not that interesting, although there is another beautiful view from a crest to the right of it, in about a hundred meters. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ds8vm0AOaGY/X6qrZQnSKAI/AAAAAAAAIVw/tzLt73CO1lQtFYjEv2znemAiH2LGiDQigCLcBGAsYHQ/s1587/_MG_1625.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1587" height="362" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ds8vm0AOaGY/X6qrZQnSKAI/AAAAAAAAIVw/tzLt73CO1lQtFYjEv2znemAiH2LGiDQigCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h362/_MG_1625.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View from the road. The second viewpoint is on the left, on the top of the crest, to the left of the vaguely frog-shaped rock looking into the sea. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> After you’ve admired the view, you return back to the house and to the end of the paved path. If you are facing the sea, the normal unpaved hiking path starts to your left. The slope is near-vertical at this point, and the path goes right next to it. You go down in a zigzag first, maybe twenty meters down, and then the path runs along the slope more or less horizontally. Follow it for a kilometer or so, till you come to a narrow ravine, full of loose stones, after which the path seems to disappear. Don’t worry. You are going down anyway, and the final destination is almost always visible. When we went, there seemed to be more than one path going down the slope between low bushes, look for cairns if you are not sure, but just keep in mind that you need to go down as safely as possible. After some scrambling down you will see a path that clearly starts on the other side of the ravine you crossed. Cross it back, get onto the path and follow it. In a little while you will pass another set of ruins, and just a little bit further on the path starts running on a sandy surface. You will find yourself by one of the sandstone ravines, the main attraction of this hike. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Caeohn1q5vk/X6rBaMibWII/AAAAAAAAIV8/B8eslcq6K2Yc0AIM07YcpOq3G8_JyquQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1427/_MG_1665.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1427" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Caeohn1q5vk/X6rBaMibWII/AAAAAAAAIV8/B8eslcq6K2Yc0AIM07YcpOq3G8_JyquQgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h404/_MG_1665.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the sandstone ravines, Faneque massif in the distance to the right </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> In theory, there is one more thing to see and do there — visit a small beach Playa de la Virgen to the right of the sandstone ravines when you look at the sea. It is only possible when the tide is low. With calm ocean, you can even bathe in there, or so they say. My companion chose the right moment as far as the tide was concerned, but, as it happened, we didn’t have much luck with the ocean. The waves were quite big, and of the beach nothing could be seen at all. We didn’t try to go down there, we are not that crazy. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o9GnU-fW6dk/X6rE3_UyN-I/AAAAAAAAIWI/OcVVv_Nk6rwk_BEJ_fJVgEOuWhoT30UFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1501/_MG_1688.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1501" height="342" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o9GnU-fW6dk/X6rE3_UyN-I/AAAAAAAAIWI/OcVVv_Nk6rwk_BEJ_fJVgEOuWhoT30UFwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h342/_MG_1688.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> See the foam and black rock poking through? That’s where the beach wasn’t. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Despite the absence of the beach, there was still the possibility to have a dip in the rockpools which are found just where the first sandstone ravine runs into the ocean. To access them you have to scramble over volcanic rocks, so please be careful if you decide to do that. The pools are separated from the ocean by volcanic rock. By the wetness of the rock, I am guessing you should only ever try to bathe there in low tide. When we were there a couple of big waves splashed over the rocks and into the pools, so when the tide is higher, it must be really unsafe. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qDt2CJnhz5g/X6rLI65EUnI/AAAAAAAAIWU/xsERIVXkIZkBUbxBvyVnSkj0DhnZYONyACLcBGAsYHQ/s1376/_MG_1702.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1376" height="418" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qDt2CJnhz5g/X6rLI65EUnI/AAAAAAAAIWU/xsERIVXkIZkBUbxBvyVnSkj0DhnZYONyACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h418/_MG_1702.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Rock pools. Once my companions got out, it became obvious that there is a lot of fish there, some quite colorful, which were hiding away while humans were splashing around. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Now, the star attraction. The sandstone ravines are similar to an enlarged version of <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2013/04/el-barranco-de-los-enamorados-or-so-i-think.html" target="_blank" title="El Barranco de los Enamorados — or so I think at least :) @ this blog">El Barranco de los Enamorados</a> on Fuerteventura, except they are quite wide and with no side branches, so there is no need to squeeze in tight places. Most of the sandstone structures are in the left one, as you look at the sea, but the most beautiful mushroom-like growths are in the right. Below are a few samples. </p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vE6rtN_3Ylw/X6rOB2yg-9I/AAAAAAAAIWg/DNl-VR9w5pE04h-Asj5AOgAGq_My3GUzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1618/_MG_1791.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1618" height="316" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vE6rtN_3Ylw/X6rOB2yg-9I/AAAAAAAAIWg/DNl-VR9w5pE04h-Asj5AOgAGq_My3GUzwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h316/_MG_1791.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Mushrooms in the right ravine. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJ2VzPmNQaU/X6rOTtUyAWI/AAAAAAAAIWo/m-rd0x77RWQPSEAs5QAhNuQBv28-dOG2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1430/_MG_1793.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1430" height="402" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TJ2VzPmNQaU/X6rOTtUyAWI/AAAAAAAAIWo/m-rd0x77RWQPSEAs5QAhNuQBv28-dOG2QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h402/_MG_1793.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the same structure. Beautifully abstract. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<div style="text-align: center;"><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w9kp6snj6gY/X6rOnmmAx8I/AAAAAAAAIWw/qHIoraqp62ghUoBwwBuPrqkQ4rd1VqMtQCLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_1829.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w9kp6snj6gY/X6rOnmmAx8I/AAAAAAAAIWw/qHIoraqp62ghUoBwwBuPrqkQ4rd1VqMtQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_1829.jpg" width="640" /></a></p></div>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bUFAaPpbAs4/X6rOzcsTaZI/AAAAAAAAIW0/MGIME3GPKYYOQg13kQRFjqpY_ksC4kvMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1436/_MG_1830.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1436" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bUFAaPpbAs4/X6rOzcsTaZI/AAAAAAAAIW0/MGIME3GPKYYOQg13kQRFjqpY_ksC4kvMQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h356/_MG_1830.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View towards Faneque and Agaete from the mouth of the right ravine </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-t2F0mEqzc/X6rPNBRoKuI/AAAAAAAAIXE/65erRMExkjQcaEZsi9JeyZpWNNNPOcCggCLcBGAsYHQ/s1358/_MG_1882.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1358" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-t2F0mEqzc/X6rPNBRoKuI/AAAAAAAAIXE/65erRMExkjQcaEZsi9JeyZpWNNNPOcCggCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h378/_MG_1882.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View upwards to one of the shelf-life protrusions in the wall of the left ravine </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3j0PwjPsP4/X6rQHlqLeSI/AAAAAAAAIXM/8cjMNoOE8xA2AHleD8QRV5AcHqoDWAgHwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1407/_MG_1846.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1407" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3j0PwjPsP4/X6rQHlqLeSI/AAAAAAAAIXM/8cjMNoOE8xA2AHleD8QRV5AcHqoDWAgHwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h410/_MG_1846.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left ravine, when the sandstone changes color, there are a lot of snail shells on the wall. I was told they were seashells from the fossil beach. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GM7tFMSu8O0/X6rQf9VGjxI/AAAAAAAAIXU/0dLk1mPtrbUiSzmuzBR5n3KNAVvPBIn-wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1442/_MG_1848.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1442" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GM7tFMSu8O0/X6rQf9VGjxI/AAAAAAAAIXU/0dLk1mPtrbUiSzmuzBR5n3KNAVvPBIn-wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h356/_MG_1848.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tall walls of the left ravine </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> Instead of retracing our steps completely, some of us decided to climb up the wall of the left ravine, thus saving a bit of treading the sand. We did fine, but I think it is not really recommendable. We found some reasonably rocky place to start the climb, but as you come closer to the top it turns into sandstone again, and is quite crumbly. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--nLrM69_tjg/X6rSlyng7HI/AAAAAAAAIXg/hzg2EWSzuigm53mQ4SbwRZbszaNNfl_sACLcBGAsYHQ/s1445/_MG_1883.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1445" height="354" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--nLrM69_tjg/X6rSlyng7HI/AAAAAAAAIXg/hzg2EWSzuigm53mQ4SbwRZbszaNNfl_sACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h354/_MG_1883.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reflections of the clouds in the ocean on the way back. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> This spectacular walk is of medium to hard difficulty due to the steepness of the path and the sand surface. To and fro is only about nine and a half kilometers, including the visits to the ravines, but you accumulate more than six hundred meters of ascent and descent, so you do need to be in good shape. The path along the rock slope is narrow and could be slippery when wet, so not for people with vertigo. Allow four hours for just the walking + some time for stopping, eating, bathing and what have you. </p>
<p> As to the route — <a href="http://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/punta-de-las-arenas-playa-de-la-virgen-artenara-gran-canaria-53429414" target="_blank" title="Punta de las Arenas, playa de la Virgen. Artenara. Gran Canaria @ Wikiloc">here</a> is an excellent, if a bit too didactic, description, with a lot of photos, image of the route on GoogleEarth and a video, all in Spanish. </p>
<p> More photos of the walk — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Punta+Arenas+Artenara" target="_blank" title="Photos of Punta de las Arenas by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>
<p> -------------------- </p>
<p>* At the moment of writing, my favourite travel company Arawak still doesn’t run walks on Canary Islands. Waiting and hoping, waiting and hoping. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0GC-200, 35350 Artenara, Las Palmas, Spain28.0339156 -15.76065128.032021694018663 -15.762796767211913 28.035809505981337 -15.758505232788085tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-19549187614519825752020-10-04T14:26:00.015+01:002024-01-30T14:25:21.491+00:00Ventana del Bentayga stone arch, interspecies kiss <p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q7basEXdmXY/X3mq7LbIkgI/AAAAAAAAISA/MrIMnQrcTRoJPC1S_GK6g4ZunsXUvUyXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1852/_MG_0691.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1852" height="277" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q7basEXdmXY/X3mq7LbIkgI/AAAAAAAAISA/MrIMnQrcTRoJPC1S_GK6g4ZunsXUvUyXQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h277/_MG_0691.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do you see a camel on the left and an elephant on the right?</td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> The amusingly-shaped stone arch above is called Ventana del Bentayga, Window of Bentayga. If you are on the right level, Roque Bentayga rock formation can be seen through it. If you are slightly above the arch, as in one of the photos below, behind and above Bentayga and to its right small white houses of Artenara village are visible, and directly above it — the top of Tamadaba massif. On a good day, Teide is seen on the horizon, too. The height of the opening is about 4.5—5 metres. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r10zyqPG_2E/X3mrwYt-qXI/AAAAAAAAISM/bs89zm86kt45jberLkfjVyZO8dYBPOMOQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1678/0029406490-original.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1678" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r10zyqPG_2E/X3mrwYt-qXI/AAAAAAAAISM/bs89zm86kt45jberLkfjVyZO8dYBPOMOQCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/0029406490-original.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aserrador massif. Road GC-60 circling it, branch to Juncal goes to the left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>
<p> I first saw this arch on a totally spectacular hike with <a href="http://www.arawakviajes.com/senderismo/" target="_blank" title="Arawak Viajes - Senderismo">Arawak</a> in the beginning of this unfortunate year, where we have visited six arches altogether, if I remember correctly. Arawak is currently not doing any short hikes in Canaries, so I have to make do as best as I can, while waiting for them to restore their normal activity. I, together with many others, am hooked on hiking, of course, so not doing it is not an option. This beautiful hike can be done using the public transport — arriving to Tejeda village and using the only bus that passes through La Culata hamlet to go back. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z0rxnAJhPsc/X3msp8M0lKI/AAAAAAAAISU/BnjMv1kO724vNf5M36NrfVxFQryi_seBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1488/_MG_0703.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1488" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z0rxnAJhPsc/X3msp8M0lKI/AAAAAAAAISU/BnjMv1kO724vNf5M36NrfVxFQryi_seBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/_MG_0703.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View towards the center of the island from the the top of the ascent to the arch. <br> The military installation on the top of Pico de Las Nieves can be seen in the V shape formed by the dark rocks to the left </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> I provide the route we used below. There are other variations which can be found on wikiloc. I would like to note that the main almost-circular path Tejeda—Aserrador—(towards) Roque Nublo—La Culata is well-signposted, so the only tricky bit is to find the arch itself. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ypBxCBBo8-s/X3msz6hi60I/AAAAAAAAISY/2st-s84XWY8HsJfmdotrgXD6fl0JtQukQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1998/_MG_0701.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1998" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ypBxCBBo8-s/X3msz6hi60I/AAAAAAAAISY/2st-s84XWY8HsJfmdotrgXD6fl0JtQukQCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/_MG_0701.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View downwards along the slope to the main path and the reservoir, almost empty at the moment. <br> The lighter-colored rocky area along which you have go up and down in lower edge centre, we mistakenly started to the left of it. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> When you start in Tejeda, you first follow the road till you come to Cesta Monumental, wine basket made on metal, favourite photo spot for many. From there, you start following the signs to Aserrador, walking the path which runs parallel to the road GC-60 and above it till Cruz de Timagada landmark cross, then along it and then below it. There is no getting lost at this stage, and btw, this is one of the most <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/03/almonds-of-tejeda-2018.html" target="_blank" title="Almonds of Tejeda, 2018 @ this blog">beautiful almond blossom walks</a>, when in season obviously. At the end of this stage, in about six kilometres from the start, you will find yourself directly below the Aserrador, on the small road that goes to Juncal de Tejeda. Return to the bigger road GC-60 and follow it, circling the Aserrador counter-clockwise, till you come to a bus shelter at the foot of Chimirique massif. From there, you have to start following the ascending path to Roque Nublo, once again very clearly signposted. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nf3KwuMO-IE/X3ms-4TCyjI/AAAAAAAAISg/sGRoOzj62EAkO3wPRtfyNx649Bn4MXuHACLcBGAsYHQ/s1397/_MG_0700.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1397" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nf3KwuMO-IE/X3ms-4TCyjI/AAAAAAAAISg/sGRoOzj62EAkO3wPRtfyNx649Bn4MXuHACLcBGAsYHQ/s600/_MG_0700.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The window as seen from the path. To get Roque Bentayga framed properly, you need to go down. <br> Artenara above right, Mesa de Acusa plateau to the left </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Now, the trickiest bit. There is no single obvious path to the window, but rather a network of possible paths that all go up. On both occasions — with Arawak and on our own — we started badly, turning off the main path too late and finding ourselves between bushes and small trees. Both times we’ve scrambled up somehow, eventually finding the right way, but somewhat scratched and worse for wear. Once above, though, the way can be seen quite clearly, and it is along a low rocky crest which is shown on one of the photos. </p>
<p> So. In less than a kilometre, you will see a small reservoir on your right. Start immediately looking for a rocky ascent, marked with cairns when we went, on your left. Don’t go where there is a lot of vegetation. Basically you need to go up any old how, and it’s the best to go on a relatively rocky surface, not between the bushes. In some places, there is no solid rock, just a slippery loose stones. Find where you feel the safest. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HhT4_uij-9g/X3mtJPdCXmI/AAAAAAAAISo/aI-O0MTBXbsOO-cjB0Z8K8i3b4T8DAD6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1553/_MG_0698.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1553" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HhT4_uij-9g/X3mtJPdCXmI/AAAAAAAAISo/aI-O0MTBXbsOO-cjB0Z8K8i3b4T8DAD6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/_MG_0698.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View through the arch. Altavista mountain far left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> This time, there was a lot of cairns, and I mean A LOT. I do not remember so many cairns when we went with Arawak, so I suspect that one of the companies that still organises walks even now have put them there for their benefit in between. I know that some hikers remove the cairn markings. Not going too much into the reasons of those who mark and those who unmark, point is, you can’t count on the cairns being there, so check the routes beforehand, and be prepared to find an alternative way, as some paths you might find closed by small landslides. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFMR11cpPkg/X3mtWFM6biI/AAAAAAAAISw/x2Jy3InFfJgZEfhoyUnUmpi64ZAtFa36ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1606/_MG_0689.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1606" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFMR11cpPkg/X3mtWFM6biI/AAAAAAAAISw/x2Jy3InFfJgZEfhoyUnUmpi64ZAtFa36ACLcBGAsYHQ/s600/_MG_0689.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Roque Nublo from the arch. <br>
There are probably even lesser-known paths to it, but we weren’t inclined to try to find them, as we were afraid to miss the bus </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Once you are up and facing a rocky outcrop, there is one obvious path that start circling it clockwise. Follow it for a few hundred metres. You will find Ventana del Bentayga on your right. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1O_MUROnLvouCmwDXnTr9B1MO0UhXsKKq" width="640"></iframe></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The orange line represents the leg Tejeda—Aserrador—Ventana del Bentayga, and the lilac one Ventana del Bentayga—Roque Nublo—La Culata</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Once all the photos of the window and spectacular landscape around it were taken, we returned to the main path, retracing our steps. From there, once again, you can’t get lost. </p>
<p> It took us about five and a half hours, together with the ascent false start. According to various trackers, the whole route is between 14 and 17 kilometres, such large disparity probably explained by the difference in recording the ascents and descents, which accumulate quite a bit. I would qualify this hike as moderate, and not recommended for people with vertigo and/or no hiking experience. There are two steep ascents, both relatively short — one below Aserrador and one to the arch, and one steep and slippery descent from the arch. Take all this into account when you do your planning. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KL8NKsl9ub8/X3mti7d8B3I/AAAAAAAAIS4/Kogl8eqe7rEdERnSiY6E1ROqm1yCS7oMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1563/_MG_0692.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1563" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KL8NKsl9ub8/X3mti7d8B3I/AAAAAAAAIS4/Kogl8eqe7rEdERnSiY6E1ROqm1yCS7oMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s600/_MG_0692.jpg" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The star Attraction once again</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> The sunset version of the same walk must be spectacular, but you will need either to stay in Tejeda, La Culata or Ayacata, or forget the public transport and make it completely circular, coming back to Tejeda village, for example.</p>
<p> More pictures from <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Tejeda+landscape+Gran+Canaria" target="_blank" title="Photos of Tejeda by Tamara Kulikova">around Tejeda</a> and of <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=stone+arch+Gran+Canaria" target="_blank" title="Photos of stone arches by Tamara Kulikova">stone arches</a> on Shutterstock. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0GC-60, Tejeda, Las Palmas, Spain27.9657073 -15.626527527.958126436591968 -15.635110568847656 27.973288163408029 -15.617944431152344tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-45001193130556345452020-09-07T13:20:00.010+01:002023-03-12T21:00:25.533+00:00La Graciosa in summer — 2, Yellow Mountain and walking (a bit)<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1308" height="391" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XacnY8_yuBU/X1YGJuKs3vI/AAAAAAAAIOo/TjW42m-coiotEIgCxXdEbTqdF6vmf06UACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h391/_MG_0019.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" title="Amazing color of the Yellow Mountain, Montaña Amarilla" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Amazing color of the Yellow Mountain, Montaña Amarilla </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/10/la-graciosa-in-summer.html" target="_blank" title="La Graciosa in summer @ this blog">The last time</a> me and Timur went to La Graciosa, the smallest of the inhabited Canary Islands, we only went as far as Playa Francesa, sheltered cove beach where many leaisure vessels anchor for an hour or so. We were not impressed: it was crowded, and there was a pink floating inflatable slide in the water, great way of spoiling beautiful landscape. </p>
<p> This time we wanted to walk a bit more, to get away from the masked crowds, and to try to see the other islands of Chinijo Archipelago from the north shore of La Graciosa. As mentioned in the first post, walking on La Graciosa is not a problem if you don’t mind sand and heat. Distances are ridiculously small and there is no vegetation, so you basically always see where you are and where to go. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z2Zazl4S3Jg/X1YHP3a446I/AAAAAAAAIO4/X_pDhQ5cmCUFb8PXTbD1Ze_iRZpEt9hKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1528/_MG_0030.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1528" height="335" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z2Zazl4S3Jg/X1YHP3a446I/AAAAAAAAIO4/X_pDhQ5cmCUFb8PXTbD1Ze_iRZpEt9hKQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h335/_MG_0030.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where three colors meet. The yellow is quite striking under hot african sun</td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> When we set out from the port of Caleta de Sebo where the boats come from Lanzarote, we didn’t know that the biggest, possibly, visual treat of the island is even closer to the village. Montaña Amarilla, Yellow Montain, didn’t look yellow from Lanzarote; it doesn’t even look yellow from La Graciosa, up till the moment you are past Playa Francesa and crested a small sandstone outcrop hiding another cove — Playa de La Montaña Amarilla. Once you get a glimpse of that yellow, you realize that the name is not a joke, as toponyms could be sometimes. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETm9-6lSVyM/X1YTApjwjyI/AAAAAAAAIPM/060GW-McJh4BDjwFU5eIZvxHJdiEQGwNACLcBGAsYHQ/s1553/_MG_0042.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1553" height="330" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETm9-6lSVyM/X1YTApjwjyI/AAAAAAAAIPM/060GW-McJh4BDjwFU5eIZvxHJdiEQGwNACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h330/_MG_0042.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> We figure the big rock we see across the strait is Montaña Clara, Clear or Light Mountain </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> So. To get the Yellow Mountain, you go around the island clockwise, starting from Caleta de Sebo. The cove is about 4 km from the start of the walk, even less if you cut through the sandy dunes. From there, if you still wish to see the other islands, you start circling around the mountain counter-clockwise first, and then you can either circle it completely and start walking the coastal path on sea level or strike across the badlands, as we did, to shorten the distance. </p>
<p> I must say that the view towards the other island(s) wasn’t that impressive. Once again, we had a bit of calima, Saharan air layer laden with dust, which made the sky look dull. But they are there, so I guess mission accomplished — we saw one biggish lump of rock relatively close to the shore and one more further away. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KroSpMJ4j_0/X1YIPj5FRXI/AAAAAAAAIPA/BplcnzMSzgUJ08YxUcTmt834rkIsuU-qwCLcBGAsYHQ/s900/_MG_0070.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KroSpMJ4j_0/X1YIPj5FRXI/AAAAAAAAIPA/BplcnzMSzgUJ08YxUcTmt834rkIsuU-qwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/_MG_0070.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Popular spot for photos. Yellow bikinis work the best. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> We then returned to the Yellow Mountain for a swim. The day was uncomfortable for that — strong wind was blowing sand across the beach and across the cove, so we ended up with eyes, ears and mouth full of it. People were hiding from the sand the best they could in the crevices and outcrops of amazing yellow rock. I am sure there are much better days to have a swim there, it was just a spot of bad luck. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PkcgGuQtsxw/X1YdCDtkqdI/AAAAAAAAIPY/UzbIVuIvNC4RFTPdrpSfz0M9FQSLxHIuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1201/_MG_0051.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1201" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PkcgGuQtsxw/X1YdCDtkqdI/AAAAAAAAIPY/UzbIVuIvNC4RFTPdrpSfz0M9FQSLxHIuQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/_MG_0051.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Texture of the volcanic rock is also beautiful </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> <a href="http://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/la-graciosa-caleta-de-sebo-caleta-del-burro-montana-amarilla-baja-de-la-pena-playa-del-salado-calet-25098797" target="_blank" title="La Graciosa: Caleta de Sebo - Caleta del Burro - Montaña Amarilla - Baja de la Peña - Playa del Salado - Caleta de Sebo @ Wikiloc">Here is a link</a> to a longer (12 km) circular route of La Graciosa, in case you want to have a look. But really, you don’t need a route — just go where you fancy. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AlGf6aDWBDA/X1Ydz-P8PlI/AAAAAAAAIPg/218jRXE1cxM8Mkvj_Cpi3XB4GkPX_GYPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/_MG_0065.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1364" data-original-width="2048" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AlGf6aDWBDA/X1Ydz-P8PlI/AAAAAAAAIPg/218jRXE1cxM8Mkvj_Cpi3XB4GkPX_GYPQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h426/_MG_0065.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One last pic. I loved the visuals, as you probably noticed. </td></tr></tbody>
</table>
<p> More pics of La Graciosa on Shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Graciosa+Canary" target="_blank" title="Photos of La Graciosa by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-30244630555088203012020-08-18T21:51:00.008+01:002023-02-21T10:37:03.431+00:00North-West of Gran Canaria: Sardina del Norte, Faro Punta de Sardina and rock pools<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zZGOxZGg6oY/XzwDsxvP_nI/AAAAAAAAILk/IJI3Q2SzMXAeXgsaBZTimzvXXtXbVzWQACLcBGAsYHQ/s1214/_MG_9711.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Small development next to the lighthouse looks Santorini-esque under hot canarian sun" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1214" height="422" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zZGOxZGg6oY/XzwDsxvP_nI/AAAAAAAAILk/IJI3Q2SzMXAeXgsaBZTimzvXXtXbVzWQACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h422/_MG_9711.jpg" title="Small development next to the lighthouse looks Santorini-esque under the hot Canarian sun" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Small development next to the lighthouse looks Santorini-esque under the hot Canarian sun </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> By now I walked most of Gran Canaria and liked most of it, too. However, there are still parts of the island of which I am aware mostly because of the photos seen in various social networks. Sometimes I have a feeling people want to keep the most beautiful places to themselves and that is why they don’t explain where they take their photos. If that is the case, they shouldn’t publish the pics in the first place. For me, it works as a challenge, and I imagine I am not the only one. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7cvrFBflgig/XzwHWC2-dQI/AAAAAAAAIL0/TZTwuZ0ZFooJpad6UdkiRqYVpK1-A9DZACLcBGAsYHQ/s1415/_MG_9713.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1415" height="362" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7cvrFBflgig/XzwHWC2-dQI/AAAAAAAAIL0/TZTwuZ0ZFooJpad6UdkiRqYVpK1-A9DZACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h362/_MG_9713.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Beautiful water, isn’t it? </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>
<p> So, having seen a few pictures of beautifully clean, perfectly round “natural swimming pool” or simply large rock pool without explanation as to what it is, I just had to try to find it. By the look of the coast backing it, it was clear that it was in the north of the island, by the look of people who took the photos it was clear it was not exactly inaccessible but you have to know where to go. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ajsyGuvFYkI/XzwKUyvnHTI/AAAAAAAAIMA/bIBSqXtRtNYRnGvFusl8Y5XG9xARKts9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1432/_MG_9727.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1432" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ajsyGuvFYkI/XzwKUyvnHTI/AAAAAAAAIMA/bIBSqXtRtNYRnGvFusl8Y5XG9xARKts9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9727.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Well, look what I found </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> I must say it took a few goes. I started exploring way too far west, too close to Las Palmas. However, after a while it became clear that it must be somewhere in Gáldar municipality, or maybe in Agaete, they share similar coastal features — shelf-like shallows, full of rock pools and blowholes, backed by tall volcanic cliffs. </p>
<p> On my last walk I finally found the rock pool you see in the pictures above and below. I am not sure if this is THE round blue rock pool, but it is a beautiful round blue rock pool. I need to re-visit the place at low tide to confirm if there are more round blue things that are even rounder and bluer. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9CL6b_b4mY/XzwMl_fE6II/AAAAAAAAIMM/Z_bO8tzeD08kzBd9iuRlDGYsCefc5HRagCLcBGAsYHQ/s1229/_MG_9731.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1229" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9CL6b_b4mY/XzwMl_fE6II/AAAAAAAAIMM/Z_bO8tzeD08kzBd9iuRlDGYsCefc5HRagCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9731.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Just you look at the little fish </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> I dearly wish I can show the location directly on googlemaps, but they keep playing with them and I can’t figure out how to do it now. So. Search for “faro punta sardina gran canaria”. With any luck it will show you where the little red and white lighthouse is. There is a small development called “Playa Canaria” just to the west of it. Right under the development, there are a couple of stairs that lead to the shallow rocky shelf. When the tide is low, you can go down and sunbathe and have a dip in one of the larger rock pools.There are other pools under the lighthouse and on the other side of it too. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Btu0rHeZJHc/XzwQYQoEFlI/AAAAAAAAIMg/viK-5aUUij4-pGto8zqtJU1o-ZuBjeVrwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1324/_MG_9746.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1324" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Btu0rHeZJHc/XzwQYQoEFlI/AAAAAAAAIMg/viK-5aUUij4-pGto8zqtJU1o-ZuBjeVrwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9746.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The above-mentioned lighthouse Faro de Punta Sardina </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> If you are going by car, this is all practical info you will need. If you are going by public transport, then I have good news for you. A <a href="http://www.horario-autobuses.com/rutas/galdar-sardina-del-norte.html" target="_blank" title="Horarios de autobus de Galdar – Sardina del Norte @ Horarios Autobuses">bus from Gáldar</a> can bring you directly to Sardina del Norte, which is a small village complete with its own dark sand beach. At the moment of writing there are two lines, belonging to <a href="http://www.guaguasguzman.com/home/" target="_blank" title="Guaguas Guzmán">Guaguas Guzmán</a> which run between Gáldar and <a href="http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sardina_del_Norte" target="_blank" title="Sardina del Norte en Wikipedia">Sardina del Norte</a> at least once an hour. The line number one goes more or less straight to Sardina — as straight as it gets. You can then walk couple of kilometres along the coast. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uH-2xzEykoU/Xzwc8pm71-I/AAAAAAAAIMs/zLUcfaqsxW0d9d3PT1x8WKJws5VUfwI4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1332/_MG_9678.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1332" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uH-2xzEykoU/Xzwc8pm71-I/AAAAAAAAIMs/zLUcfaqsxW0d9d3PT1x8WKJws5VUfwI4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9678.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Sand beach of Sardina del Norte </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Or, if you feel really lazy, you can make sure you catch the line number two. That will bring you right to the lighthouse, and you can explore the coast both sides of it. Although those buses are run by Guaguas Guzmán, they are now working under umbrella of Global, the main transport company of Gran Canaria, and if you have Global card, it will work with Guaguas Guzmán. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0tM2IRo4Jo/Xzwd6ZK9rLI/AAAAAAAAIM0/rI4Bbv7biYAUg347iTKsOrp1rTv0kQYYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/_MG_9694.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1254" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r0tM2IRo4Jo/Xzwd6ZK9rLI/AAAAAAAAIM0/rI4Bbv7biYAUg347iTKsOrp1rTv0kQYYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9694.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View from the clifftop path across the bay towards dark rocks of Agaete coast </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> If you decide to walk, you’ll have to find the start of the path which runs along the tops of the cliffs. Sardina del Norte, as so many other parts of Gran Canaria and Spain in general, is under constant development and repairs. Many of the secondary roads are cut off and cars have to make a few loops and circles, but walkers have it simpler — once in Sardina, find a path which runs clockwise along the coast, and you can’t miss the lighthouse. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dRxZoOszors/XzwgUaaP6kI/AAAAAAAAINA/CfjPgcXgCB8dfZSQRAurc1LHaGdM4_EdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1201/_MG_9709.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1201" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dRxZoOszors/XzwgUaaP6kI/AAAAAAAAINA/CfjPgcXgCB8dfZSQRAurc1LHaGdM4_EdgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9709.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Many, many rock pools can be seen from the path. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Well, that’s pretty much it for the moment. If I find something even more beautiful, I will write some more. Happy exploring. </p>
<p> Photos of the coast of Gran Canaria on <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Gran+Canaria+coast" target="_blank" title="Photos of the coast of Gran Canaria by Tamara Kulikova @ Shutterstock">Shutterstock</a>. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0Spagna, Av. Alcalde Antonio Rosas, 67A, 35469 Gáldar, Las Palmas, Spain28.1516863 -15.6962764-0.15854753617884398 -50.8525264 56.461920136178847 19.459973599999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-54866373516732342162019-12-23T21:08:00.003+00:002023-03-06T13:36:47.745+00:00Cruz de Tejeda — Pico de Las Nieves<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5AZny0JD9nM/XfpxO5_qUoI/AAAAAAAAHoA/tl_hik2cTvwRZE8jf259xNjpnv26yYSLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1947.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5AZny0JD9nM/XfpxO5_qUoI/AAAAAAAAHoA/tl_hik2cTvwRZE8jf259xNjpnv26yYSLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1947.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Million euro view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Pico de Las Nieves is the highest point of Gran Canaria, some 1,949 metres above sea level.<br />
Except it's not really the highest point, because its neighbor rocky outcrop with a hole in it, Morro de la Agujereada, i.e. Holey Mountain, is a few meters taller. But you can't get on the top of Agujereada safely and easily, so Pico de Las Nieves is sold as The Summit.* It's where you get the classic, the most postcardy view, with Roque Nublo, Roque Bentayga and Teide on Tenerife all in front of you.<br />
I have been to it a few times, even watched the sun setting from there, but somehow failed to write it up. <br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>
<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VSMancDOvj0/Xf-v8z3PEgI/AAAAAAAAHpI/g-kzBYcXEawwT33OAJ0E6Q1e4jFxhdu_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1880.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="936" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VSMancDOvj0/Xf-v8z3PEgI/AAAAAAAAHpI/g-kzBYcXEawwT33OAJ0E6Q1e4jFxhdu_QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1880.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As you start walking, you keep beautiful landscapes of Caldera de Tejeda to your right. Clouds hiding awesome Roque Bentayga</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This time my main aim was to time how long it would take me to get there from Cruz de Tejeda if I walked reasonably fast. I always stop to take pictures of course, but I tried not to stray off the main path (and almost didn't, at least on the way up)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XyT5Wu0NKTQ/Xf_g5IDy9KI/AAAAAAAAHpU/wcL8t5mudgAekEnimp8u3zpuqbflqe-HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1887.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="997" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XyT5Wu0NKTQ/Xf_g5IDy9KI/AAAAAAAAHpU/wcL8t5mudgAekEnimp8u3zpuqbflqe-HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1887.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small village Las Lagunetas, on your left as you walk, Las Palmas to the left in the far distance </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The route is not that well signposted, not sure why. Or rather, it is signposted, but not to "Pico de Las Nieves". Starting from Cruz de Tejeda, you have to follow the signs to Roque Nublo first. When you start seeing "San Bartolome de Tirajana", or "Tunte" on the signs, follow these till you finally see the pointer to Pico de Las Nieves. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tJjN6BUxdEU/Xf_hCweTwaI/AAAAAAAAHpY/w2lX-uHms8441ljwsUQkc7WuPMDUpjloACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1892.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tJjN6BUxdEU/Xf_hCweTwaI/AAAAAAAAHpY/w2lX-uHms8441ljwsUQkc7WuPMDUpjloACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1892.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roque Nublo looking true to its name </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I followed a route that is signposted, i.e. I stayed on official footpaths all the time. <a href="https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/pico-de-las-nieves-cruz-de-tejeda-4009841">This </a>route on wikiloc corresponds to what I have done except there it is written in reverse. The distance they give is 5.3 miles, 8.5 km, and the ascent is 1352 meters (the descent in their case). On the map there are two obvious shortcuts, both at Llanos de la Pez, but neither of them is signposted in any way, so I didn't risk it. Next time maybe. <br />
It took me two and a half hours to complete the route. It was not super-speedy, of course, but the ascent is considerable, so I am quite pleased with the result. I think the shortcuts would have reduced the time by half an hour.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tUtnM245XFE/Xf_hRcbe7NI/AAAAAAAAHpg/zXhbMZuemrsThANrr3nubBeoufsWHgOiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1904.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1216" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tUtnM245XFE/Xf_hRcbe7NI/AAAAAAAAHpg/zXhbMZuemrsThANrr3nubBeoufsWHgOiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1904.jpg" width="526" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Faz6LiZq6bY/Xf_hRZMXjsI/AAAAAAAAHpk/MPgyjGYSbCUv_ZX4ZAxpTjfvSzgLAGYVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1926.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1510" height="422" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Faz6LiZq6bY/Xf_hRZMXjsI/AAAAAAAAHpk/MPgyjGYSbCUv_ZX4ZAxpTjfvSzgLAGYVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1926.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottlebrush shaped Canary Pines</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Two years ago wildfire passed through Las Cumbres, the tops of the island, coming right up to the Pico de las Nieves. Two years on, the Canary Pines, Pinus canariensis, have mostly recovered, although they have a funny bottlebrush shape, re-sprouting happening directly from the trunk.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AjffsphQr5c/Xf_hutufUZI/AAAAAAAAHp0/ZpA-PdpRiyEmYsBVFFi5U8MnqletQvXEACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1928.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AjffsphQr5c/Xf_hutufUZI/AAAAAAAAHp0/ZpA-PdpRiyEmYsBVFFi5U8MnqletQvXEACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1928.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morro de la Agujereada to the left, Tirajana valley on the right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are quite a few patches of the forest with bottlebrush trees, and right next to them patches with a normal conical shape. Fire takes strange paths.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMrgAhBH4Zw/Xf_h-HNT_lI/AAAAAAAAHp4/pUY0ssIpKTgdbuTZI85mLpLPYuit8EMlACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1939.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1541" height="415" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMrgAhBH4Zw/Xf_h-HNT_lI/AAAAAAAAHp4/pUY0ssIpKTgdbuTZI85mLpLPYuit8EMlACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1939.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The prevailing wind direction is rather obvious, isn't it?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Pico de Las Nieves finally gets its own pointer only at the <a href="https://ca.wikiloc.com/rutes-cursa-de-muntanya/14-04-2018-sky-gran-canaria-ultrasky-am72-24947003/photo-15917524">Degollada de Los Hornos</a> pass, a big path intersection, when you are only a kilometer away from the end of the route. I don't think you can possibly miss the sign.<br />
<br />
After you pass the Degollada de los Hornos you start meeting more people, because this leg of the route forms a part of path joining Pico de las Nieves and Roque Nublo.<br />
<br />
Pico itself is never empty. Well, ok, I never was there at two at night, say, but during daylight hours there is always somebody there. People come by car, by motorcycle and by bike, and of course on foot, as I did. A word of advise — start taking pics before you come to the viewpoint. Not that there is any pushing and shoving going on, no. But the classic view is to the west, towards Roque Nublo and Teide on Tenerife, when taken from the main viewpoint, doesn't have anything in the foreground, so look for nicely shaped trees or rocks along the path.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up06QSPnK-M/Xf_iRG_irLI/AAAAAAAAHqE/5f-g1IDFYFcfGLcCkc2LACi1oap79mpQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1965.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1546" height="412" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-up06QSPnK-M/Xf_iRG_irLI/AAAAAAAAHqE/5f-g1IDFYFcfGLcCkc2LACi1oap79mpQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1965.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roque Margarita with a small group of old pines on the top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
What comes up has to go down of course. This is where it gets confusing and possibly unhelpful, but I will write it anyway.<br />
<br />
I didn't want to go back the same route, so I started walking east, looking for alternatives. There was a pointer to San Mateo, route S-20, which I started to follow and promptly got lost. Don't know how, can't explain. Never mind, I thought, I will go down, because that's where I am going anyway. Very soon I found myself on the small road GC-134, and followed it. After a few switches between some secondary paths and the roads, I was at <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/Cruz+de+los+Llanos/@27.9783282,-15.5820982,16z/data=!4m8!1m2!2m1!1scruz+de+los+llanos+gran+canaria!3m4!1s0xc409010e419b869:0x701c8ec8cf7ab166!8m2!3d27.97742!4d-15.580124">Cruz de los Llanos</a>, where one road goes to Cueva Grande, another to Cruz de Tejeda and a hiking path descends to San Mateo. I knew this place and I knew that the path goes past Cueva Grande, so I went for it. At some point I started seeing the tiny village Cueva Grande itself, and started to look for side branches that obviously went to it. The main path, with its yellow markers, passes the village on the right, and I didn't want that.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3IJjDj3ifgU/Xf_idTyD76I/AAAAAAAAHqI/eLhio3LBjC4W3xY0BW6Vacj6wtaW7VYOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_1972.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="996" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3IJjDj3ifgU/Xf_idTyD76I/AAAAAAAAHqI/eLhio3LBjC4W3xY0BW6Vacj6wtaW7VYOgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_1972.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cueva Grande — low right. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There is more than one side path going to Cueva Grande, and I later realized I chose one of the longer ones. But it didn't matter — I was in a Cueva Grande bar-restaurant at a few minutes past three in the afternoon, which gave me just enough time to have a drink before my bus came along.<br />
<br />
Now, the timing. The route is obviously not circular, and it took me in total just four hours, first the two and a half to ascend the peak, and then one and a half to get, by trial and error, to Cueva Grande. Which worked out superneatly, as it happens.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.guaguasglobal.com/en/lineas-horarios/linea/?id=305">Bus 305 San Mateo < > Tejeda</a>, which passes through both Cruz de Tejeda and Cueva Grande**, is not very frequent. One that starts from San Mateo at 10.30 takes you to Cruz de Tejeda by 11.05-11.10. According to the schedule displayed on the bus stop in Cueva Grande the bus on its way to San Mateo comes there at 15.32. If anything, it came a bit earlier, keep this in mind. Also, check the schedule of the bus before you set off in case of changes and roadworks. <br />
<br />
So. Hope it was helpful and happy walking :)<br />
<br />
Pictures of Pico de Las Nieves — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Pico+de+Las+Nieves" target="_blank" title="Photos of Pico de Las Nieves by Tamara Kulikova">here</a><br />
<br />
----<br />
* Not sure why, but a few people to whom I talked about it looked very doubtful about Agujereada being taller. When I got to the top of Pico de Las Nieves for the first time it seemed blindingly obvious to me that it was. Maybe I am totally wrong of course, but when you are looking at something and the horizon line is level with the top of the object, that means your eyes are approximately level with the top of the object, while Morro de la Agujereada <a href="https://lori.ru/26455420">sticks above the horizon</a> in a very obvious way. Do tell me if I am mistaken in my assumptions.<br />
<br />
** I always thought about the detour to Cueva Grande that 305 makes as "pointless loop". There is hardly anybody who catches or gets off the bus there. Now I have changed my opinion — occasionally this loop is needed to collect free-range hikers. <br />Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-28399907912003681202019-11-21T18:56:00.016+00:002023-02-10T00:04:48.691+00:00Third time’s the charm <p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pWcYQJGX-Hg/XdQ-wpKtdtI/AAAAAAAAHhI/6Hkm-MO6kCYKrHi3ZVuc3QRMIEzPj-NNQCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_0035.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1535" height="416" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pWcYQJGX-Hg/XdQ-wpKtdtI/AAAAAAAAHhI/6Hkm-MO6kCYKrHi3ZVuc3QRMIEzPj-NNQCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_0035.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Finally! A decent pic from the top. Shadow of Papa Teide on the morning mist and anticrepuscular rays </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> I know it probably sounds ridiculous, but I went up to the top of Teide twice this year. And my <strike>stupid</strike> persistence finally paid off. Although I am still to see all the other islands from the top, we had a beautiful and not very common view during our ascent at down — <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anticrepuscular_rays" target="_blank" title="Anticrepuscular rays in Wikipedia">anticrepuscular rays</a>. On the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/07/ascent-of-teide.html" target="_blank" title="Ascent of Teide @ this blog">first ascent</a> we saw very little because of the calima, on the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/05/up-we-go.html" target="_blank" title="Up we go @ this blog">second</a> the wind was so strong that all we cared about was not to be blown away, and now, finally, a few good pictures, yay. </p>
<p> Honestly, I feel so ridiculously proud of the pic above, as if I have gone and painted the rays in the sky myself. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M8uXp6uRy7Y/XdRB-SrkdqI/AAAAAAAAHhU/NecJ086TflM6cxmMRR5Y3yIg9av0cHYeQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9972.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M8uXp6uRy7Y/XdRB-SrkdqI/AAAAAAAAHhU/NecJ086TflM6cxmMRR5Y3yIg9av0cHYeQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9972.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> It pains me even to look at it. Ascent by Pico Viejo, route 23, “Los Regatones Negros”, to be precise. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> All that said, things didn’t quite go according to plan again. This time, <a href="http://www.arawakviajes.com/senderismo/" target="_blank" title="Arawak Viajes - Senderismo">our group</a> was there for a slightly longer stretch — three days, two nights. On the day of the arrival we had a nice, relatively easy altitude-adaptation walk. The second day we were supposed to go up to the top by the cable car. And what do you know, the blasted thing wasn’t working again. It was very windy it hadn’t been working for a few days in a row, and it was clear it won’t be on the day of the supposed ascent either. Our guides had to improvise, and they came up with a plan B. It involved splitting the group in two. One subgroup was to go up by the Montana Blanca route, the same I’ve already did twice. The other part, which included only the “strong and somewhat crazy” ones, were to go by the path that starts at Roques de Garcia and passes by Pico Viejo — i.e. the same extremely hard path I descended by on my <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/07/ascent-of-teide.html" target="_blank" title="Ascent of Teide @ this blog">first visit</a>. Somewhat inexplicably perhaps, I wanted to be, and was, in the second subgroup, that of the crazies. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPenKQCRB0s/XdaHv0PJldI/AAAAAAAAHhg/XuNqfnD0OG4MsoTOXvGFOWXEC6ZijTFzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9934.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="976" data-original-width="1600" height="390" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPenKQCRB0s/XdaHv0PJldI/AAAAAAAAHhg/XuNqfnD0OG4MsoTOXvGFOWXEC6ZijTFzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9934.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> A thousand pesetas view. <a href="http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Billet_1000_Pesetas_Verso_Galdos.jpg" target="_blank" title="Banknote of 1000 pesetas in Wikipedia">Literally</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> It involves a lot more than a kilometre altitude gain — the upper station of the cable car is at 3555 m, Roques de Garcia at 2000 m above sea level. The original idea was to go continue up to the top, but only a couple of people from our subgroup made it, so let’s say one and a half kilometre altitude gain. </p>
<p> We started well — this time everybody was nice and fresh when we were around spectacular rock formations Roques de Garcia, so we got our <a href="http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Billet_1000_Pesetas_Verso_Galdos.jpg" target="_blank" title="Banknote of 1000 pesetas in Wikipedia">“mil pesetas” view</a> of crooked Roque Cinchado with Teide in the background. Pesetas were replaced by euros, but the view is still there. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FrVy5IIwTqk/XdaSz6BxyAI/AAAAAAAAHhs/c4UwDdZcPCoTqGKZTrR6e6QPSNqWGjsswCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9950.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FrVy5IIwTqk/XdaSz6BxyAI/AAAAAAAAHhs/c4UwDdZcPCoTqGKZTrR6e6QPSNqWGjsswCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9950.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Off we go </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Once we walked around the Roques de Garcia, we found an information display relating to the <a href="http://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/p-n-teide-mirador-de-la-rambleta-pico-viejo-roques-de-garcia-43232646" target="_blank" title="P. N. TEIDE: Mirador de La Rambleta, Pico Viejo, Roques de García @ Wikiloc">hike</a> on which we were about to embark. It said, quite unequivocally, that the difficulty of the route was “extreme”. Of course, by then it was a bit too late to stop and turn back, not that anybody wanted to at this stage. </p>
<p> If <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/07/ascent-of-teide.html" target="_blank" title="Ascent of Teide @ this blog">going down had been hard</a>, going up was harder still. Or to be precise, the first part was sort of ok. It was going up of course, but it undulated a bit, going down and flat now and then. In this fashion, we came to Degollada de Pico Viejo, where a few routes cross. This path has its number in the path network — 23, and you can see green markers with this number along the way. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WXY2ckFtR8w/XdaZXL6E35I/AAAAAAAAHh4/R8bAGqzcIhcx7_ZnPWiygXowV_KsYvtXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9971.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1578" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WXY2ckFtR8w/XdaZXL6E35I/AAAAAAAAHh4/R8bAGqzcIhcx7_ZnPWiygXowV_KsYvtXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9971.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> A view towards Teide from where the route 23 ends and route 9 (seen to the left) begins. <br /> See all the black stuff in between? Gotta walk all of it. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Unlike most of my companions, I knew that the hard bit was still to come. And it came, of course. The black rocky badlands of the route number 9 didn’t get any easier to walk on. The distance between Degollada de Pico Viejo and the viewpoint Mirador de Pico Viejo is just over two km and the altitude gain only about 400 metres, but they are hard kilometres and metres. Most of it is over rocks that are irregular, sharp, and not big enough to step on with confidence and not small enough to walk as if on gravel. Hard, hard, hard. And the truly killing feature — a few times you see the green path marker at what appears to be the top, the end, the final stretch, because there is nothing but the blue sky behind it. And when you come to it you discover that no, that was just a very small levelling in the path and it still goes on and on. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kiQ8F7lKTQ4/Xdaer_YZ4qI/AAAAAAAAHiE/IQvv1Kb5Gusd8VyY5WHVOCHxCtJCguCnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9979.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="936" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kiQ8F7lKTQ4/Xdaer_YZ4qI/AAAAAAAAHiE/IQvv1Kb5Gusd8VyY5WHVOCHxCtJCguCnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9979.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> A view towards Pico Viejo, Old Peak, crater from about half way along the malpais. La Gomera can be seen, if only just, above it. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> It was this last two kilometres that got most of us. Up t a certain point I wasn’t aware of the problem developing, till I asked a question to a guy behind me and the voice that answered was nothing at all like his. He was having a sharp drop of blood sugar, his lips weren’t moving properly, neither were his legs. He was unwilling to stop and rest though, maybe because he saw me trudging on in front of him or maybe because of his own tenacious nature. He is an extremely fit guy who normally walks about twice as fast carrying about twice as much as me. </p>
<p> Although I myself felt sort of ok*, I got anxious at this point and started walking with many stops, waiting for him to catch up every few metres. Behind us, there was another pair of people going even slower, so that our poor guide ended up walking up and down the path, distributing chocolate and juice and cheering everybody on. He also ended up taking a backpack** off one of us and walking up with two. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCr3r7qf4NY/Xdaithl652I/AAAAAAAAHiQ/t8_iAgWDaVACyQcETdCEdeAmqaxwbzsCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9986.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="1600" height="372" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCr3r7qf4NY/Xdaithl652I/AAAAAAAAHiQ/t8_iAgWDaVACyQcETdCEdeAmqaxwbzsCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9986.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One of the “no probs” people :) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> We all got to the end of malpais path, of course, to the viewpont, and very grateful we were to finally get there. From the viewpoint, there is an easy, relatively level, well-paved, less than a kilometre walk to the cable car station, and from there you can either go down to the refuge, as most of us did, or can ascend the peak. </p>
<p> Having said all that, there were three people — two guys, one gal — who walked up the malpais path just fine. Three of them were waiting for us to catch up in the wind shade of cable car station. Two guys went on to ascend the peak, while the rest of us went to relax in the refuge. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xT3iRwsFS04/XdampiCq88I/AAAAAAAAHic/1amQAGSoLQQgVlfDSBytwOtdYFcPN99HgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_9992.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1465" height="436" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xT3iRwsFS04/XdampiCq88I/AAAAAAAAHic/1amQAGSoLQQgVlfDSBytwOtdYFcPN99HgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_9992.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Fumarole close to the cable car station </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Once in the refuge and rested a bit, things started to look up. In fact, when our guide cautiously suggested that maybe, just maybe some people would like to go up to the summit at dawn, many, including me, got suddenly enthusiastic about the idea. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1L6oX5qqWXk/XdanLGS3fDI/AAAAAAAAHik/ugqEaQAXTewaGYSSVtZDAEqra5G9likiwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_0016.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1520" height="420" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1L6oX5qqWXk/XdanLGS3fDI/AAAAAAAAHik/ugqEaQAXTewaGYSSVtZDAEqra5G9likiwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_0016.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The sun-up moment. The sun is raising from behind of Gran Canaria, it is just about visible on full res, but you have to take my word on it. <br /> Cable car station to the right. </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> So, once again, we got up at some ungodly hour, and we were at the top to catch the splendid view of shadow of Teide and anticrepuscular rays. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLAW9uvSLJs/Xdao73umxiI/AAAAAAAAHiw/onMSXXB5FVQ1RoHxMQu32Au5c05fN2RbACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_0049.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1010" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLAW9uvSLJs/Xdao73umxiI/AAAAAAAAHiw/onMSXXB5FVQ1RoHxMQu32Au5c05fN2RbACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_0049.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Let’s finish on the same high note </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> And we even got to go down by cable car, also a new experience, and quite fun too, on the way down at least. As you pass each tower, there is a brief moment of almost free-fall, as the cabin speeds down the steepest stretch of cable. </p>
<p> Lucky, lucky, lucky me :) </p>
<p> Teide and Tenerife photos on Shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara/sets/201013223?rid=2050" target="_blank" title="Teide and Tenerife landscapes by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>
--------------------
<p> * I think I was ok, but I did develop a headache when already in the refuge, plus I felt quite cold, disproportionately so. Our guide was so concerned he didn’t want me to go to the top next morning. Happily, a few hours of sleep sorted me out. </p>
<p> ** Another factor that contributed to the problem was the size of the backpacks some people were carrying. The plan was to go up by cable car you see, so they brought some nice food and even a bottle of wine. Add that to the normal “at least three liters of water and all the clothes you need in the morning” and you got yourself a bloody heavy backpack. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-11555900252719369652019-10-11T20:07:00.013+01:002023-03-12T21:47:31.420+00:00La Graciosa in summer<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L6SeiwvpgWc/XZYllJlN1dI/AAAAAAAAHVo/62zGgCeyI707BL9B0dTHjtXL8xnIW6HBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_5999.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1581" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L6SeiwvpgWc/XZYllJlN1dI/AAAAAAAAHVo/62zGgCeyI707BL9B0dTHjtXL8xnIW6HBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_5999.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Shallow lagoon Bahia de Salino filling with water in high tide </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> Ok, with all the excitement of the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/09/gran-canaria-after-forest-fire-2019.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria after forest fire 2019, Cruz de Tejeda — Artenara @ this blog">wildfire</a> over, the academic year has started for real, and I feasted my (and, hopefully, your) eyes on the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/09/barranco-de-los-cernicalos-water.html" target="_blank" title="Barranco de los Cernícalos — water! @ this blog">rare sight of freshwater stream</a> on Gran Canaria, I would like to return to our short stay on <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/08/lanzarote-in-summer-playa-de-papagayo.html" target="_blank" title="Lanzarote in summer, Playa de Papagayo @ this blog">Lanzarote</a>. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-savEUXAeBUA/XZcVkA_vy-I/AAAAAAAAHV0/LNPaZSjq8X8xwkBLoz2Hv5A_07Kora3uQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6120.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="964" data-original-width="1600" height="384" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-savEUXAeBUA/XZcVkA_vy-I/AAAAAAAAHV0/LNPaZSjq8X8xwkBLoz2Hv5A_07Kora3uQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6120.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On a ferry back </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> We went there with a specific aim in mind — to have a day trip to La Graciosa, the smallest of inhabited Canary Islands. The island is administratively a part of the Teguise municipality of Lanzarote, a fact that apparently vexes its inhabitants. At least from time to time — I think they are way too relaxed and they can’t dedicate enough energy to staying vexed for very long. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JMgVzJOvzMs/XZcWCAEalUI/AAAAAAAAHV8/j03fwG1hoysCuGboEXGLwKnYH6oB1H_9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_5989.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1564" height="408" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JMgVzJOvzMs/XZcWCAEalUI/AAAAAAAAHV8/j03fwG1hoysCuGboEXGLwKnYH6oB1H_9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_5989.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock bar that forms the outer Barrier of Bahia del Salado lagoon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Anyway. La Graciosa is only reachable by sea. I am not sure if there is a provision for a helicopter lift in case, for example, of medical emergencies, but even if this is the case, air transfers are not available to tourists. So boat it was. There are at least two types of boats going between Orzola village on the north east of Lanzarote and the capital of La Graciosa — the tiny, largely unpaved not-even-two-horse village Caleta del Sebo. The bigger,
more regular ferry belongs to <a href="http://www.lineasromero.com/en/ferries/lanzarote-orzola-la-graciosa-caleta-de-sebo/" target="_blank" title="Ferry Lanzarote - La Graciosa @ Líneas Marítimas Romero">Lineas Romero</a>, the other one positioning themselves more as an excursion vessels*, and probably charging accordingly.** </p>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZkDmPgfhOKY/XZcZb01DsiI/AAAAAAAAHWQ/7IRmsYUGYRwOEHcQYtmUweWNLdc2JsK4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6108.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="836" data-original-width="1600" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZkDmPgfhOKY/XZcZb01DsiI/AAAAAAAAHWQ/7IRmsYUGYRwOEHcQYtmUweWNLdc2JsK4wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6108.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="st"> Farión de Afuera, “Farer islet”, as seen from the boat. Riscos de Famara on Lanzarote to the left. </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> The regular boat goes off to La Graciosa and back every hour between 10am and 20pm (in summer), except during siesta when they have longer breaks, see the schedule <a href="http://www.lineasromero.com/en/ferries/lanzarote-orzola-la-graciosa-caleta-de-sebo/" target="_blank" title="Ferry Lanzarote - La Graciosa @ Líneas Marítimas Romero">here</a>. </p>
<p> The transfer is short, but could be a bit rough — as it was in our case. Occasionally, they cancel the ferry due to particularly bad sea, but don’t worry about getting stuck on La Graciosa — they will either refuse to sell you the tickets if there is such a possibility or warn you about it. Going from Orzola, we started to sway alarmingly once out of the harbour, and the waves continued to hit us heavily till the moment we went around Fariones (<a href="http://www.academiacanarialengua.org/diccionario/entrada/farion/" target="_blank" title="farión @ Academia Canaria de La Lengua"><i>farión</i></a> meaning a small rocky islet close to a coast). Once into El Río the waves practically stopped. El Río means The River and is a sea strait between Lanzarote and La Graciosa, so called because of the strong constant current running through it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jzLzSaB6PD0/XZcYaMMX4BI/AAAAAAAAHWI/RqaHfsTlvS47_6yITaZl3J23q1QhGHpkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_5971.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="791" data-original-width="1600" height="313" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jzLzSaB6PD0/XZcYaMMX4BI/AAAAAAAAHWI/RqaHfsTlvS47_6yITaZl3J23q1QhGHpkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_5971.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the dust trails to the right? Left by two 4x4</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Once on La Graciosa, time slowed down (even more). Well, maybe if it was in winter it would have stopped completely. There are no paved roads on the island, and no “normal” cars. You can walk, go on a bike (which can be rented) or go on one of the 4x4 in which they do the excursions on sand-covered tracks. My original idea was to have a good long walk, but we came there in the middle of a heatwave, so it was clear the walk wasn’t a happening thing. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9rCmXcI-WLs/XZceJ1g7PNI/AAAAAAAAHWc/C_S_tW03NQ46ggvMyFOUTue116b_8Db1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_5993.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="946" data-original-width="1600" height="378" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9rCmXcI-WLs/XZceJ1g7PNI/AAAAAAAAHWc/C_S_tW03NQ46ggvMyFOUTue116b_8Db1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_5993.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fisherman on the bar of Bahia de Salino lagoon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Now, when you read about La Graciosa, you probably imagine a paradise island escape, with whole beaches all to yourself and not a car exhaust in view. I know I did. Unhappily, in summer, during school hols, this is not the case. The aforementioned 4x4s, although probably very few in number, keep running between Caleta del Sebo and Playa la Francesa, the nearest coved beach. The distance is short, so while we walked, the same small group of vehicles made the trip several times, blighting very nearly every single pic I took there. There was a “parking” for bicycles next to Playa la Francesa. There were a few leisure crafts in the cove, something I can happily live with, but, there was also a large pink (pink, Carl!) inflatable waterslide floating there, something I am a lot less happy about, to put it mildly. I am not sure what is the situation on other beaches, we didn’t reach there. Hopefully, when you can walk more, you can finally escape the holidaying crowds, but I can’t confirm or deny this. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KfhqdUUqA5Q/XZcf1c9SVyI/AAAAAAAAHWo/l_sfIRGxMEYgipoi2Ne56t9bhJdcSkAUQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6005.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1557" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KfhqdUUqA5Q/XZcf1c9SVyI/AAAAAAAAHWo/l_sfIRGxMEYgipoi2Ne56t9bhJdcSkAUQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not sure what this plant was originally, now it looks like sand Cthulhu. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Walking on La Graciosa is perfectly doable, with a couple of things to keep in mind — there is a lot of sand, and there is no shade at all. So basically, not recommendable in summer. I don’t know why I even though it would be a good idea. I must have forgotten my Fuerteventura experiences, which are very similar. La Graciosa looks like a very small copy of Fuerteventura, what with the sand and the eroded volcano craters. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s0Yngoc6EqY/XZcf8xm6-sI/AAAAAAAAHWs/mgbhDZDj1zEWteOnwmpDaTVy3DmW9k4VgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6016.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1534" height="416" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s0Yngoc6EqY/XZcf8xm6-sI/AAAAAAAAHWs/mgbhDZDj1zEWteOnwmpDaTVy3DmW9k4VgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6016.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Timur walked just to humour me.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Along the coast between Caleta del Sebo and Playa la Francesa there is a sandy strip, almost completely covered by water in high tide. In summer there are quite a few people there, too, but in winter probably not so many, if anybody at all. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pWkmZqtiqwI/XZcgEL7V4WI/AAAAAAAAHWw/sCg4YQB4HY8opLi2OxHk2WQ_2bnm6V-uACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6035.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1468" height="434" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pWkmZqtiqwI/XZcgEL7V4WI/AAAAAAAAHWw/sCg4YQB4HY8opLi2OxHk2WQ_2bnm6V-uACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6035.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The water is beautifully transparent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Lanzarote on the other side of El Rio provides a dramatic backdrop. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QSGs7aAydGo/XZcgKiooSTI/AAAAAAAAHW4/Nsoa0E0lyJwVfbKmGUwI_oKAkiG8RpRcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6041.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1426" height="448" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QSGs7aAydGo/XZcgKiooSTI/AAAAAAAAHW4/Nsoa0E0lyJwVfbKmGUwI_oKAkiG8RpRcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6041.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> The tops of the cliffs on Lanzarote are covered by clouds. Sky over La Graciosa was completely clear. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> To summarize — it is a cute little island to visit. If at all possible, best time for a visit is out of school holidays season. There are a lot of us everywhere, in search of peace and quiet, especially in summer. I can’t really blame local entrepreneurs for trying to make some money, nor can I blame people with kids for wanting to entertain their progeny. Still, I find myself wanting to blame somebody for ruining a prior image of the island in my head. I guess I must blame myself then. </p>
<p> Pictures from La Graciosa on Shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Graciosa+Canary" target="_blank" title="Photos of La Graciosa by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>
<p> Enjoy :) </p>
<div style="border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); border-left: none; border-right: none; border-top: none; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; padding-bottom: 0.07cm; padding-left: 0cm; padding-right: 0cm; padding-top: 0cm; padding: 0cm 0cm 0.07cm;"></div>
<p> * I think the “other” boats were of the glass-bottom kind. If you haven’t been on one of those before, I would like to warn you that they are rubbish when used as a transfer vessel. Fish don’t come close to a moving boat, so
there is nothing to see during the ride. Only in the harbour or when stationery, there is a chance of seeing something, but even so, you’d be better off just looking into the water from the pier or overboard. </p>
<p> ** Speaking of charging. If you are a resident in Canary Islands, don’t forget the proof of your residency. Given that you are reading this post in English, you probably don’t look and/or talk like a local. In the queue for the tickets, I first observed one of the cashiers issuing the “resident” tickets to a couple of young Spanish guys after simply asking them “are you from here?” and NOT asking for any proof, while with us she started to prepare the tickets for the full “non-resident” price without bothering to ask anything. When I told her we are residents, she DID ask for a proof. Having the papers meant I had to pay 13 euros for tw o day returns (vs 52 full price, yes, sir, 75% discount) </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-25059741487595730382019-09-25T16:41:00.015+01:002023-02-07T00:54:06.618+00:00Barranco de los Cernícalos — water!<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5HpJRx8j3Kw/XYp6d3CxuZI/AAAAAAAAHT8/okzGuzoBrU4ywqPXb41Wg2jG7cZWek7cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_7523.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1577" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5HpJRx8j3Kw/XYp6d3CxuZI/AAAAAAAAHT8/okzGuzoBrU4ywqPXb41Wg2jG7cZWek7cwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_7523.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> A small waterfall a bit off the path </td></tr></table></p>
<p> Finally, I’ve seen all three places where water always runs on Gran Canaria. Well, actually, there are just two left, poor <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/10/barranco-de-la-mina-gran-canaria.html" targe="_blank" title="Barranco de la Mina, Gran Canaria @ this blog">Barranco de La Mina</a> having been killed off by the owner of the water*. So, now on Gran Canaria you have just two places where freshwater runs all year round — <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/05/gran-canaria-barranco-de-azuaje.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria, Barranco de Azuaje @ this blog">Barranco de Azuaje</a> and <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/09/barranco-de-los-cernicalos-water.html" target="_blank" title="Barranco de los Cernícalos — water! @ this blog">Barranco de los Cernícalos</a>, Kestrels’ ravine. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EWFGqDogmfA/XYp6gDdAz3I/AAAAAAAAHUE/3zHT93efKhw9GGzT8Of-J93XLZYI0pJmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_8203.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="997" data-original-width="1600" height="398" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EWFGqDogmfA/XYp6gDdAz3I/AAAAAAAAHUE/3zHT93efKhw9GGzT8Of-J93XLZYI0pJmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_8203.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<p> Actually, I did go <b>across</b> this particular ravine a couple of times already, without following the course of the water. The surrounding areas are green almost all year round, making it a firm favorite with hikers. And not only hikers — when we went there for the second time, we met at least one group of people, obviously tourists, in flip-flops. </p>
<p> Mind you, you <i>can</i> go in flip-flops, it’s not that difficult, just a bit umm... well, silly really. </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQO5kcegxyk/XYp6d1d5sQI/AAAAAAAAHT4/6MD_jwqMYY46gN5wzteJ6M4pG3EFruXygCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_8198.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQO5kcegxyk/XYp6d1d5sQI/AAAAAAAAHT4/6MD_jwqMYY46gN5wzteJ6M4pG3EFruXygCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_8198.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<p> It’s one of the walks perfectly doable by using public transport, as my friends shown me. The ravine is not far from Telde, which is well-connected to both La Palmas and the south of the island. From Telde you have to catch a bus by a local company (currently the concession belongs to TelBus), which goes to a small place called Lomo Magullo roughly every half an hour. From there, to get to the beginning of the ravine you have to walk on the road a couple of kilometers (the pointer at the edge of Loma Magullo says 2.5), unless you are lucky and catch much less frequent bus by the same company which carries on to Los Arenales. </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5NBJ3XCcPrI/XYp6eMAGGqI/AAAAAAAAHUA/O69v_7HgFj0SC5DP13cqenj59QkEnhREQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_7546.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1248" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5NBJ3XCcPrI/XYp6eMAGGqI/AAAAAAAAHUA/O69v_7HgFj0SC5DP13cqenj59QkEnhREQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_7546.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
<p> The walk is linear, but if you feel energetic you can always carry on and go to the Caldera de los Marteles and then even further on, to the Pico de las Nieves. We did to-and-fro walks both times I’ve gone so far. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lr3cysJ1AYM/XZSLOAvG6tI/AAAAAAAAHVE/vZFgw1VLy2sGqTBsRfPq_VhREWjJS7mugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_7550_crop.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="722" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lr3cysJ1AYM/XZSLOAvG6tI/AAAAAAAAHVE/vZFgw1VLy2sGqTBsRfPq_VhREWjJS7mugCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_7550_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> My friend who had shown me this route is cooling himself under a waterfall. I didn’t dare to do the same :) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> What can I say. The ravine is beautiful. In places where there is a lot more freshwater it wouldn’t feel so magical, I imagine, but in Canaries it does. At the beginning there are a few signs, and later the route always runs along the stream, sometimes wandering off a bit allowing to avoid climbing rocks. There is a lot of shadow, additional bonus most of the year. There are cascades, some of them can be approached for a quick icy shower. It’s all good. The only possible minus is that it is so accessible, it can get if not exactly crowded, but definitely well-transited, especially during weekends. But, unlike spectacular, but short <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/07/gran-canaria-temisas-aguimes-with-visit.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria, Temisas — Aguimes, with a visit to Barranco de Las Vacas @ this blog">Barranco de Las Vacas</a>, you have a few kilometers of the ravine to share, so it’s not so bad. </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HtS-xRwp_fc/XYp6gCRm4VI/AAAAAAAAHUI/FF_z7_Z0PsYberpD5z7_XU5Aefc1LZmewCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_8213.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HtS-xRwp_fc/XYp6gCRm4VI/AAAAAAAAHUI/FF_z7_Z0PsYberpD5z7_XU5Aefc1LZmewCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_8213.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<p> My recorder refused to catch the data after a side-tracking to a waterfall, so I place the incomplete route here mostly to show the way between Lomo Magullo and the ravine. From where my record stops, you can carry along, always following the course of the water, till you come to a double waterfall (it falls down vertically first and then runs along a steep rocky surface). This is the place most people get to. Further up, there are two more waterfalls, one of which I have seen, but I must warn you that past the double waterfall the path gets a bit more tricky and overgrown. </p>
<center><iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1IeA7GtfDsaWonL6yG_4Av1OyrK5cdlUU" width="640"></iframe></center>
<p> -------------------- </p>
<p> * Now (rant mode on), about Barranco de la Mina. What happened is that the owners are now catching all of the water at the source and putting it in a pipe “para aprovechar mejor”, i.e. to make a better use of it. I would have had no problems with it, if they had left some little water for the plants, but noooo. No water runs in the ravine if there is no rain (when it rains, it seems that their pipe thankfully is not big enough to catch all of the water). </p>
<p> As a result, what once was a green lush environment, now is a ravine full of dry and drying trees — perfect fire conductor. In my personal opinion, the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/10/gran-canaria-after-forest-fire.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria after the forest fire, September 2017 @ this blog">fire of two years ago</a> wouldn’t have run so fast and so far if it wasn’t for the this little show of human avarice. </p>
<p> When I ask the locals they tend to avert their eyes are mumble something along the lines “well, it is their water, they can do what they like with it...” I must say I find it ridiculous. With all due respect for the private property rights, if the owners can damage the environment by exercising them, there must be regulations in place to prevent them from doing so. In most situations such regulations exist, but not in this case. </p>
<p> ---------------------- </p>
<p> Pictures of freshwater streams on Gran Canaria on <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara/sets/232072175?rid=2050" target="_blank" title="Fresh water on Gran Canaria. Important and limited resource - photos by Tamara Kulikova">Shutterstock </a></p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-83996742017967786312019-09-13T12:03:00.016+01:002023-03-06T08:47:55.431+00:00Gran Canaria after forest fire 2019, Cruz de Tejeda — Artenara<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CRbGaC8JglI/XXqjKlFGJCI/AAAAAAAAHQM/0HSbP8_hTSkMcz-K0YbJusTAmBeEuMqqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6658.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="850" data-original-width="1600" height="338" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CRbGaC8JglI/XXqjKlFGJCI/AAAAAAAAHQM/0HSbP8_hTSkMcz-K0YbJusTAmBeEuMqqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6658.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> These pines kept their needles, although they are dry and yellow. I think they have a good chance of recovery. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> I was hoping to never write this kind of report <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/10/gran-canaria-after-forest-fire.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria after the forest fire, September 2017 @ this blog">again</a>, but it was not to be. </p>
<p> Only two years after the fire which started inside Caldera de Tejeda and burned the Parador de Tejeda hotel, and despite the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2019/05/controlled-burn-silver-tansy-and-heat-of-may.html" target="_blank" title="Controlled burn, silver tansy, and heat of May @ this blog">controlled burns</a> in the central areas of Gran Canaria, another fire ran through the tops of the island, Las Cumbres. Several fires, to be precise, one of them, tagged in social media with #IFValleseco, especially big. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_Hm27J2_GdM/XXtcc-nAaqI/AAAAAAAAHQY/hedtL96prUo0WfEYUyZlpDm0Ct8M0cqTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6737.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_Hm27J2_GdM/XXtcc-nAaqI/AAAAAAAAHQY/hedtL96prUo0WfEYUyZlpDm0Ct8M0cqTQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6737.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> This slope shows the unknowable way of fire. Some of the young canarian pines are burned to a “naked branches” stage, some kept their needles, and there are some that even kept green tops, in the upper left and lower right corners </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> It started, as the hashtag suggests, in Valleseco, one of the most difficult to access populated areas of Gran Canaria. The cause, when I read it last, was believed to be an electrical failure. It spread exceptionally quickly, going up along several ravines and passing into <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/caldera%20de%20tejeda" target="_blank" title="Caldera de Tejeda @ this blog">Caldera de Tejeda</a>. Once over the lip of the caldera, it sped up and spread and started to re-burn areas already affected by the previous fire, #IFArtenara. One of the points of entry was Madrelagua, a long ravine that eventually becomes <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/05/gran-canaria-barranco-de-azuaje.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria, Barranco de Azuaje @ this blog">Barranco de Azuaje</a>. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4X3a1trUIMs/XXtiLr6rJVI/AAAAAAAAHQk/DxkD0MoydmckEocPBPoZcH6epDJb1zDPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6553.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="891" data-original-width="1600" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4X3a1trUIMs/XXtiLr6rJVI/AAAAAAAAHQk/DxkD0MoydmckEocPBPoZcH6epDJb1zDPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6553.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down the ravine Madrelagua, the most <span data-dobid="hdw">thoroughly </span>burnt area I saw.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Because another fire was just put out one day ago, the reaction was fast — firefighters were sent in from all the islands and from the mainland, along with helicopters and watertankers from Group 43 of the military support unit. The latter were the most spectacular addition to the firefighting efforts. For the lack of freshwater bodies large enough to catch water, they had to load up with salt water. They did it in the aquatic territory of the port of Las Palmas, giving the locals and tourists something to look at. </p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wh2s-zgw3T0/XXtk1WjjdZI/AAAAAAAAHQw/5I-Kpag4BjMatvuoRByhFJvWZCgE5HCJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_5766.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wh2s-zgw3T0/XXtk1WjjdZI/AAAAAAAAHQw/5I-Kpag4BjMatvuoRByhFJvWZCgE5HCJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_5766.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> About to touch water. Looks like an aerial attack, doesn’t it? They arrived to fight the previous fire, #IFArtenara, don’t know if they even had time to depart in between. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JHu7D0mEiGM/XXtlfXH7N9I/AAAAAAAAHRA/g6nynAcXFvUtxtPep5Tk-gSJQ60Beke7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6374.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="1600" height="310" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JHu7D0mEiGM/XXtlfXH7N9I/AAAAAAAAHRA/g6nynAcXFvUtxtPep5Tk-gSJQ60Beke7wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6374.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing spectacle. No wonder that there were crowds of people standing on the Avenida Maritima, greeting the planes.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dMgOUAtiYS8/XXtm0yEONTI/AAAAAAAAHRM/gRsbx2IWuqgKOp9yawY7CAIvr2S1_CTiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6431.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dMgOUAtiYS8/XXtm0yEONTI/AAAAAAAAHRM/gRsbx2IWuqgKOp9yawY7CAIvr2S1_CTiQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6431.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Taken from our balcony. No, it didn’t crash, but those guys were doing some amazing things in the air, flying low, between houses, taking water very close to the boats, etc. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> In total, I believe they said about 9000 people were evacuated from Las Cumbres. Once the fire entered the natural park Tamadaba, a Canarian pine forest full of floral endemics and dry pine needles it was said to be unstoppable. That is, it couldn’t have been stopped by human efforts, if it had wished to burn, it would have burned. Fortunately, it did stop, and we were even told the Tamadaba wasn’t affected as badly as it was feared (of which later). </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEo4adqx9ak/XXtp1fbih2I/AAAAAAAAHRY/768wR1TWipQR2Upv4MMpQ2X1EWm6PMU7ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6408.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="924" data-original-width="1600" height="368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SEo4adqx9ak/XXtp1fbih2I/AAAAAAAAHRY/768wR1TWipQR2Upv4MMpQ2X1EWm6PMU7ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6408.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Image taken from La Puntilla, one of the edges of Las Canteras beach in Las Palmas. You can see the top of the island outlined in flames. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> So. When the roads were opened and I though it was safe to go*, I went to check out how the path of the fire looks. </p>
<p> It looks much, much worse than two years ago. The forest floor is turned to ashes. There is no undergrowth left. Canarian pines, fire-resistant though they are, burnt to a “naked branches” stage in many places. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uAerM1KOa6I/XXtsYiIu6GI/AAAAAAAAHRo/Xaemle5-TlUw_qYWQk6_qDbFPY7lhF-YgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_6573.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uAerM1KOa6I/XXtsYiIu6GI/AAAAAAAAHRo/Xaemle5-TlUw_qYWQk6_qDbFPY7lhF-YgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_6573.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Various degrees of fire damage, including some untouched trees on the slopes of Montañon Negro. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Going along the simple route Cruz de Tejeda — Artenara was a sad and hot affair. When the ground is essentially black and the sun is out, you feel like you are slowly roasting in the oven with both the top and bottom heaters on. </p>
<p> I’ve been there twice since the end of the fire**, the second time with Timur. There was about a week between the two visits, with almost no improvements visible in between. One dubious improvement was the appearance of bracken shoots. Bracken being an invasive species, that is no improvement at all. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vR3n6LuLfk4/XXtunL7X2WI/AAAAAAAAHSY/ZvyzS5a4AEQRktlDGVRv-569KuMuyDk5wCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_7181.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vR3n6LuLfk4/XXtunL7X2WI/AAAAAAAAHSY/ZvyzS5a4AEQRktlDGVRv-569KuMuyDk5wCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_7181.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anther sign of life was the appearance of new leaves on a burnt sweet chestnut tree. Same as two years ago, fire seems to have confused the chestnuts — the buds, which should have stayed dormant till spring, awakened. But at least it shows that the tree is alive, a good sign.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> The dry straw is one of the main conductors of the fire. In many places you could see that a relatively small gap in vegetation, such as a road, worked as a firebreak. </p>
<table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bTRTgVXwqIU/XXtunLgM9VI/AAAAAAAAHSQ/ewHjO26ZiTQvqTheVhffCetNe8gmU5ffgCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_7091.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="985" data-original-width="1600" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bTRTgVXwqIU/XXtunLgM9VI/AAAAAAAAHSQ/ewHjO26ZiTQvqTheVhffCetNe8gmU5ffgCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_7091.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Where the fire stopped </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Just a few more pics to show what we saw on our sad walk. </p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-abxvDCFx-Xg/XXtunT7B2EI/AAAAAAAAHSY/Ut4WvAU7Kp00ssANyW85s5vk30WH1lK6ACEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_7168.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1544" height="414" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-abxvDCFx-Xg/XXtunT7B2EI/AAAAAAAAHSY/Ut4WvAU7Kp00ssANyW85s5vk30WH1lK6ACEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_7168.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> I always thought that the rock formation on the left resembles a Devil’s head. Now I think he looks smug and pleased looking into the burnt caldera </td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oec-_WQXb3A/XXtx-H2hWSI/AAAAAAAAHSg/FfXOq7bfl8UOO9RTmB-1SVWgEBIrLse4QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_7263.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="641" data-original-width="1600" height="256" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oec-_WQXb3A/XXtx-H2hWSI/AAAAAAAAHSg/FfXOq7bfl8UOO9RTmB-1SVWgEBIrLse4QCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_7263.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One of the burnt path markers. The pole is gone, it fell off. We left it were it was.I think it would be a nice thought-provoking addition to one of the local museums. </td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6e4HchkpAR8/XXtuoDthT_I/AAAAAAAAHSU/5d81u9QzBXIZtHSRyMDazrFwlvLnigGlgCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_7255.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="1600" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6e4HchkpAR8/XXtuoDthT_I/AAAAAAAAHSU/5d81u9QzBXIZtHSRyMDazrFwlvLnigGlgCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_7255.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> One of my favourite landscapes on the island. Still beautiful of course </td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table width="60%" align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z0FWMMikqBY/XXtzZC929CI/AAAAAAAAHS0/r6xHRxQMmj8HnozgnfZqtoEii-vpb8BNACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/_MG_7273_crop.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="735" data-original-width="1600" height="294" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z0FWMMikqBY/XXtzZC929CI/AAAAAAAAHS0/r6xHRxQMmj8HnozgnfZqtoEii-vpb8BNACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/_MG_7273_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> That’s how the Tamadaba massif looks from the path. As you can see, most of it is yellow, some (to the left), burnt to black, and some green tops still remain. The undergrowth probably all gone. Don’t know if it is really “better than we feared”. </td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p> So, to resume a little: </p>
<p> 60% of the surface of Artenara municipality were affected by the fire. There was no loss of life this time, something to be grateful for. </p>
<p> All the plants of <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2016/07/flora-of-gran-canaria-tanacetum.html" target="_blank" title="Flora of Gran Canaria — Tanacetum ptarmiciflorum, silver lace plant @ this blog">silver tansy</a> are gone together with the rest of underbush. The plant is perennial, there is a chance that some roots survived, but it is too early to to tell. </p>
<p> Once the autumn comes, there will be more <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/03/gran-canaria-planting-trees.html" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria — Planting trees @ this blog">reforestation events</a> and I do hope they will be less about entertainment and more about some real forest management.</p>
<p> The route is the same as in <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/08/cruz-de-tejeda-artenara-summer-version_13.html" target="_blank" title="Cruz de Tejeda — Artenara, summer version">here</a>, you can also see and compare some pics of before and after. </p>
<p> Pics of aftermath of forest fire — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara/sets/227929214?rid=2050" target="_blank" title="Gran Canaria after forest fire - photos by Tamara Kulikova">here</a>. </p>
<p> -------------------- </p>
<p> * According to some, it wasn’t. That is, I mustn’t have gone. But I have and I can’t now ungo. </p>
<p> ** As I write, the fire is under control and essentially extinguished, but Tamadaba still closed to the public.</p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-24781489987864478082019-08-31T15:07:00.011+01:002023-03-12T22:22:57.750+00:00Lanzarote in summer, Playa de Papagayo<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPyvCgqVoXA/XWfpJLYfzZI/AAAAAAAAHLY/RHdgPWVd5R0gNO0qr88vcO1s2p-oJmBEACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_5830.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1496" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPyvCgqVoXA/XWfpJLYfzZI/AAAAAAAAHLY/RHdgPWVd5R0gNO0qr88vcO1s2p-oJmBEACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_5830.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Beautiful water. Playa Mujeres </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> This year’s summer holidays were a bit scrambled for us, due to this and that. To punctuate the month of August we decided to go to Lanzarote, just for three days. We’ve already been to Lanzarote a few times of course. This time, the aim was to check out Playa de Papagayo, Parrot’s Beach, a small cove beach not far from Playa Blanca, and La Graciosa, the smallest inhabited Canary Island, “the eighth one”. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-esR-N94PNpI/XWfut9EyEkI/AAAAAAAAHLk/M4LJgS82bXwSRQ2Gicxa6vcXm7nqx9ZxgCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_5824.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="881" data-original-width="1333" height="422" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-esR-N94PNpI/XWfut9EyEkI/AAAAAAAAHLk/M4LJgS82bXwSRQ2Gicxa6vcXm7nqx9ZxgCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_5824.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Somewhat closer </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> But first, we had to get there. Timur prefers sea to air, so we decided to try a relatively new route of <a href="https://www.fredolsen.es/en" target="_blank" title="Fred.Olsen Express | Fast Ferries in the Canary Islands">Fred.Olsen</a>, Las Palmas – Arrecife. It normally takes under four hours. Unfortunately, we traveled on a bad day. The sea was rough, the boat was full of people being sick and we were one and a half hours late to arrive. The captain announced at the very beginning that we would be late, because of the state of the sea. He even had to take a route to the east of Fuerteventura, while the normal route goes to the west. While we were traveling there were quite a few announcements like “could the owners of such and such two vehicles please come to the hold”. All of them came after we hit an especially big wave, so I imagine the two vehicles in question had just collided. </p>
<p> And you know what? Even after the experience, Timur still claims he prefers sea travel to flying. I must add that the travel back was right on schedule, no delays, no car collisions. </p>
<p> Another thing to note — in summer months, there are (almost) no cruise ships visiting the Canaries, so (almost) nobody expects tourists in the port. The car rental office of Cicar is closed and you have to take a taxi to Arrecife to pick up your rental car. The only office of Cicar (or, rather, Cabrera Medina, Cicar’s mother company) in Arrecife has relatively short hours and a long break for siesta. Be warned. There were a few (very few) taxis in the port, but there were possibly even fewer vehicle-less passengers, so when we emerged, a small verbal fight and some pushing and shoving ensued between two taxi drivers — something I’ve never seen in the Canaries before. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AWv97sOCBfQ/XWfvQXqHO3I/AAAAAAAAHLs/gY_67SARVkE7BaLUmdde-vpON2d3MmTnACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_5865.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1420" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AWv97sOCBfQ/XWfvQXqHO3I/AAAAAAAAHLs/gY_67SARVkE7BaLUmdde-vpON2d3MmTnACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_5865.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> You can still find a place to spread your blanket, but... I dunno. I am not a big fun of crowded beaches. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Next day we didn’t want to think about sea travel, so we went to see the Papagayo beach. The main, most picturesque beach is relatively small and quite sheltered. You can access it by car, except I chickened to drive a small rental Fiat 500 on a dirt track. It was very clear from the map that the white sandy beaches are not far from
the southernmost barrio of Playa Blanca — Las Coloradas, so we parked there and went on foot. I’d say, if you have no problems walking — walk.The first white sand beach, called, according to Google Maps, “Playa Mujeres”*, is located slightly more than a kilometer away from where we parked — and we didn’t even park the closest possible. If you are able bodied and don’t have to drag kids (or unwilling adults) with you, driving might be a bit frustrating. And it’s not because there is a charge, nor because the road is bad. It is because the “main” cove is packed, as you can see above. So you end up in a big hot shadeless carpark, faced with a prospect of either being on a sandy beach full of people, or (having just paid for driving) walking back, towards Playa Blanca, to get to the less crowded places. And Playa Mujeres is, ironically, somewhat closer to Las Coloradas than to the cove. </p>
<p> Playa Mujeres also has its own parking space, even two parking spaces. I am not sure at which point they charge you, so don’t know if these are free or not. If you can’t walk, this might be a good alternative to driving all the way to Papagayo. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g6Z3aVm8XOY/XWfz1lfp_xI/AAAAAAAAHL4/mXn5O9Y4xmYMCFwYG-WA66WeEULgWwPsACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_5850.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1487" height="386" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g6Z3aVm8XOY/XWfz1lfp_xI/AAAAAAAAHL4/mXn5O9Y4xmYMCFwYG-WA66WeEULgWwPsACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_5850.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Playa del Pozo, between Playa de Papagayo and Playa Mujeres </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> Having said all that, all the beaches are undeniably beautiful. Just don’t believe the publicity pics that were taken, oh, I dunno — 40 years back, possibly. I can’t say about winter months, they might be considerably emptier then, but on a hot summer day be prepared for crowds, everybody looking for the same thing as you — seaside idyll. Idyllic emptiness is not a happening thing. </p>
<p> You might have a better chance for it if you carry on to the south from the parking of Papagayo — there are some south-east facing beaches that look promising. We didn’t get there, the day was way too hot for it. </p>
<p> Practical detail: just above the Papagayo cove there are two bars/beach restaurants. When we were there, only one was opened, maybe because it was still too early in the day for the second one. Prices are predictably exaggerated but you won’t stay hungry and thirsty at least. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_LwiHVt3RQU/XWf14mKWRtI/AAAAAAAAHME/CLTORrfYqu0v9XVtu9O7rKf92dXFMqyDgCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_5860.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1370" height="420" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_LwiHVt3RQU/XWf14mKWRtI/AAAAAAAAHME/CLTORrfYqu0v9XVtu9O7rKf92dXFMqyDgCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_5860.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> View towards Playa Blanca </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> I timed our walk back from Papagayo beach to where we parked the car in Las Coloradas — it took us 40 minutes, with getting lost in the small streets belonging to various hotel developments. </p>
<p> After that, there was still plenty of time for us to go for lunch in La Geria and visit the volcanic park Timanfaya :) </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mOrpnXb41Wk/XWf469VOoTI/AAAAAAAAHMQ/NYxqyC5_xWUpheZRWmwHI4Yb9BzoTykWQCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_5901.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1399" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mOrpnXb41Wk/XWf469VOoTI/AAAAAAAAHMQ/NYxqyC5_xWUpheZRWmwHI4Yb9BzoTykWQCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_5901.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<p> Check out the lay of the land between Playa Blanca and Papagayo on the map below. Have a look at the relative size of the parking and the cove. </p>
<center><p><iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1J_y2nTEDAMVXTCaMYKkAb8l3RqsC5fpL" width="640"></iframe></p></center>
<p> Pics related to Lanzarote on Shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=Lanzarote" target="_blank" title="Photos of Lanzarote by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>
<div style="border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(0, 0, 0); border-left: none; border-right: none; border-top: none; line-height: 100%; margin-bottom: 0cm; padding-bottom: 0.07cm; padding-left: 0cm; padding-right: 0cm; padding-top: 0cm; padding: 0cm 0cm 0.07cm;"></div>
<p> * Playa Mujeres sounds a bit odd to me, but that’s what you see on Google Maps. The most likely name is “Playa de las Mujeres”, Women’s Beach. </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0Unnamed Road, 35580 Yaiza, Las Palmas, Spain28.847320909638793 -13.78314014189550128.736026909638792 -13.944501641895501 28.958614909638793 -13.621778641895501tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-50012099774439564872019-05-26T15:43:00.000+01:002019-06-01T19:01:45.486+01:00Controlled burn, silver tansy, and heat of May<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c4bHrCCNpxY/XOpfpYaC5LI/AAAAAAAAHGA/QpmaA4i7egAtuBuUm0bmk5868Oed8FCYgCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_3223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1475" height="390" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c4bHrCCNpxY/XOpfpYaC5LI/AAAAAAAAHGA/QpmaA4i7egAtuBuUm0bmk5868Oed8FCYgCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_3223.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An eruption? A wildfire? Nah... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After years living on Gran Canaria I have identified for myself the three main "hanami" events. I try to go and see all three of them each year, but sometimes it proves impossible.<br />
One of them is the<a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/%E8%8A%B1%E8%A6%8B"> blooming of almonds</a>. Another - the blooming of <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/tajinaste%20azul">tajinaste azul</a>, blue bugloss of Gran Canaria. And the third one is the <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2016/07/flora-of-gran-canaria-tanacetum.html">blooming of silver tansy</a>, much less obvious event. I guess my attachment to these rare plants is mostly due to the fact that I found and identified them myself, while both almonds and tajinaste are well known seasonal attractions.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOEDoC3KgpI/XOpfpdNYznI/AAAAAAAAHF4/FTAncMykAYQfqJ_u7KCjeEXrssQLKA1gQCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_3264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1442" height="398" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOEDoC3KgpI/XOpfpdNYznI/AAAAAAAAHF4/FTAncMykAYQfqJ_u7KCjeEXrssQLKA1gQCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_3264.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whoa, what's all this then?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Same as with almonds and tajinaste, it is a bit difficult to determine when the plants will be in flower, but from my observations the best time to visit is more or less in mid-May. The blooms are long-lasting, but they accumulate a lot of dust from the air, and what with <a href="https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calima_(meteorolog%C3%ADa)">calima </a>visiting us more and more frequently, they lose their appeal, especially in macro mode.<br />
<br />
This year, I went to check the plants a couple of times in April, they were slow to start this year.<br />
And when I finally came at about the right time, I found all the king's horses and all the king's men blocking my way. That was not their intention, of course. When I got off the bus on <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/search/label/Cruz%20de%20Tejeda">Cruz de Tejeda</a> stop, plumes of smoke were visible over the lip of Caldera de Tejeda, at the level of Los Moriscos cliffs. I knew that there were some wild fires this year already, very early in the year - a consequence of the lack of serious rain in winter. But everybody around me seemed relaxed, so it was apparent that the situation was under control. There were a couple of Cabildo workers seated at an outside table in a cafe. I asked them what was going on ("controlled burn") and if the path between Cruz de Tejeda and Artenara was passable ("I'd say yes"). As it turned out, they were wrong on the second count, but well, they tried. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eH5CcmFhiAc/XOpfpBL1TgI/AAAAAAAAHGE/qh-n2p6TQHgYwbNmlm3EHgc7BPiiRoC4gCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_3290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eH5CcmFhiAc/XOpfpBL1TgI/AAAAAAAAHGE/qh-n2p6TQHgYwbNmlm3EHgc7BPiiRoC4gCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_3290.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I found some plants to photograph of course</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I started going along the <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/08/cruz-de-tejeda-artenara-summer-version_13.html">path to Artenara</a>. The plants in their wild state grow along it on the level of Los Moriscos, precisely under the plumes of smoke, so I was somewhat skeptical about being able to get where I wanted. When I came to the viewpont <a href="http://www.grancanaria.com/turismo/en/nature/mirador-lookout-network/mirador-degolladapalomas/">Degollada de las Palomas</a> I found the parking lot full of emergency vehicles - fire engines of a military support unit and a couple of ambulances. There were quite a few people from the said unit milling around. As far as I understood, the majority of them don't have a chance to do anything during the day - their task is to stay alert and at hand, if anything goes wrong (nothing did during this particular burn).<br />
<br />
I had a chat with them. They didn't allow me to pass, of course. I tried to persuade them, but only for the sake of formality really. I am not even sure if I would have gone if they said "yeah, go right ahead". <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-miODlZ11OT4/XOpfpwo8osI/AAAAAAAAHGE/3rtG2PqUtUwHI-pYyG0KPTbMSaHZcz-BwCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_3306.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1531" height="418" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-miODlZ11OT4/XOpfpwo8osI/AAAAAAAAHGE/3rtG2PqUtUwHI-pYyG0KPTbMSaHZcz-BwCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_3306.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here they are. I think they were quite happy for a little distraction from all the waiting around</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Controlled_burn" target="_blank" title="Controlled burn in Wikipedia">Controlled burns</a> are conducted in Canary Islands quite often, to prevent much more destructive <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/10/gran-canaria-after-forest-fire.html">wild fires</a>. From what the guys in the pics said they burn mostly dry grass and last year's bracken. They assured me that if there are something rare and endemic growing somewhere, they won't burn that. I bloody hope not.<br />
<br />
I am not an expert, but the controlled burn strategy makes sense for me - they are basically burn off the easy burning material which can allow fire to travel fast and get out of control. I know that there are people who are dead against controlled burns though.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-87dfcjD83XQ/XOpfqLmG25I/AAAAAAAAHF8/aQsw_4jHLS0YZub7B7Dgs7Idx7KRpx7bwCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_3307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="903" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-87dfcjD83XQ/XOpfqLmG25I/AAAAAAAAHF8/aQsw_4jHLS0YZub7B7Dgs7Idx7KRpx7bwCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_3307.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handsome bunch, no?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Anyway. Not being able to go where I wanted, I just went down a few metres from the same viewpoint, accompanied by "eh, but where is she going? dunno, there are some plants she said, no? but, it's a bit dangerous, no? does she know what she's doing, you think?", etc. As I said, they had nothing to do there all day, and were understandably bored.<br />
<br />
The explanation for my bizarre actions is simple - there are some plants of silver tansy right there, surrounded by chicken wire fence for protection, so I made a few snaps. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33An0ReV4r8/XOpfqNYzQ-I/AAAAAAAAHF8/9DQqyYMzX8sBPxPOlnwkEY_QXC7iBAKcwCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_3340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-33An0ReV4r8/XOpfqNYzQ-I/AAAAAAAAHF8/9DQqyYMzX8sBPxPOlnwkEY_QXC7iBAKcwCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_3340.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain scabious, <i>Pterocephalus dumetorus</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After that, there were nothing to do but to come back to Cruz de Tejeda. There are a couple of plants in front of the Parador hotel. They mercifully escaped the wild fire of two years ago. The thing about <a href="https://www.iucnredlist.org/species/162108/5539742">silver tansy</a> is that it starts blooming after a few years of growing, so I am very happy that these two specimens survived.<br />
<br />
Also, this year they re-laid a small garden with local flora just behind the Parador. They have nice mountain scabious bushes there.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MF_M8erhJdk/XOpfqsyMtCI/AAAAAAAAHGE/EhIulAw88zM80AQAslVOYLGigZv5vKrMACEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_3389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1350" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MF_M8erhJdk/XOpfqsyMtCI/AAAAAAAAHGE/EhIulAw88zM80AQAslVOYLGigZv5vKrMACEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_3389.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aahhhh. Love them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That's all, I am finished with floral stuff for this year, I believe. Although there are a few flowering things still around, the weather gets hotter and hotter, especially in the south and the central parts of the island, where the humidity from the ocean doesn't reach. So the island goes dry and brownish-yellow, for most part.<br />
<br />
Ah, an important update - it's not only silver tansy that flowers in May, of course. There are plenty of other beautiful stuff around. FOr me one of the most notable ones is mountain scabious Pterocephalus dumetorum . A goodish stretch of Cruz de Tejeda - Artenara route has tall well-established plants growing on both side of the path, just before you come to the <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2016/05/gran-canaria-cuevas-de-caballero-stone.html">Cuevas de Caballero</a> caves. When the plants are in bloom, you can't possibly miss the masses of pale lilac-pink flowers. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWnaHMyuBw0/XPK7fELUXgI/AAAAAAAAHGk/h7bxvGy_9JgjaOxIzrrgoDzwbbfiFRJ8QCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_3906.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1350" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWnaHMyuBw0/XPK7fELUXgI/AAAAAAAAHGk/h7bxvGy_9JgjaOxIzrrgoDzwbbfiFRJ8QCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_3906.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain scabious Pterocephalus dumetorum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r1renX0KAE/XPK8NQoVmdI/AAAAAAAAHGs/WhgcF9aFVyU-5XsDfWtAwfF5CHukBqztwCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_3783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1313" height="438" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5r1renX0KAE/XPK8NQoVmdI/AAAAAAAAHGs/WhgcF9aFVyU-5XsDfWtAwfF5CHukBqztwCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_3783.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here it grows together with wormwood Artemisia thuscula, locally called <b>incienso, </b>insence, for it's strong church-like scent.<br /><b></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Photos of silver tansy on shutterstock - <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=silver+tansy&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true">here</a>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0GC-150, 35340 Tejeda, Las Palmas, Spain28.01508566037085 -15.60364602783204227.987048160370851 -15.643986527832041 28.04312316037085 -15.563305527832043tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-10351852016527984462019-05-16T22:38:00.017+01:002023-02-08T23:21:48.848+00:00Up we go<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DmH8GzjPNEU/XNxx_uBzkYI/AAAAAAAAHCw/zfstph-TZXMHN5o6jjryVW2so2aPYmcpQCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_2930.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1600" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DmH8GzjPNEU/XNxx_uBzkYI/AAAAAAAAHCw/zfstph-TZXMHN5o6jjryVW2so2aPYmcpQCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_2930.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alien tentacles! Cthulhu raising to the surface! Tremble, you feeble humans... etc</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> When I <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/07/ascent-of-teide.html" target="_blank" title="Ascent of Teide @ this blog">went up the Mount Teide</a> two years ago I didn’t really have a plan. Well, I had the most basic of all plans — to go up and survive. People told me two things at once — first “it’s kinda easy, you just need to pace yourself” and the second “but the altitude sickness can strike even the most fit people”. With this mixed message in mind, I can tell you I was going up listening to myself and asking all the time “am I ok?”, “am I still ok?”. I was perfectly fine, but this type of self-monitoring is not conductive to enjoyment. </p>
<p> This time I knew it was doable, and my first concern was the weather. What if the (blasted) calima turns up again? We won’t be able to see anything! </p>
<p> I can say straight away that we were much luckier this time — there was almost no dust in the air and the visibility was a lot better. First day, we saw Gran Canaria, La Palma and La Gomera above the sea of clouds while still on the bus. Next day, only La Gomera was visible from the top of the mountain at dawn, but that was also fine — I personally didn’t even get the camera out of the backpack, see the explanation later. </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XaKTlI7ycvo/XNxzAvwW82I/AAAAAAAAHC0/f1UBFLN0x14qcca7j2rLf_7Q8PdTg78NgCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_2895.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XaKTlI7ycvo/XNxzAvwW82I/AAAAAAAAHC0/f1UBFLN0x14qcca7j2rLf_7Q8PdTg78NgCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_2895.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tickling the air</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> The second concern had to do with this beautiful weirdness from the title photo. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echium_wildpretii" target="_blank" title="Echium wildpretii in Wikipedia">Tajinaste Rojo</a>, red bugloss of Tenerife, towel of jewels or whatever you chose to call it. I knew it would be about the right time for them to bloom, but our guide was adamant that we are not going to look for them specifically.
So I was making plans to somehow split from the <a href="http://www.arawakviajes.com/senderismo/" target="_blank" title="Arawak Viajes - Senderismo">group</a>, go search for them, probably get lost in the caldera... Turned out, I needn’t have. We stopped at the <a href="http://www.webtenerife.co.uk/what-see/teide-national-park/centro-de-visitantes-el-portillo/" target="_blank" title="Visitor Centres | Teide National Park | Tenerife">Visitors Center El Portillo</a> to change, rearrange our luggage, etc. — and there they were! The Center has a landscaped area dedicated to local flora. There were quite a few tajinaste plants in bloom right there. We later saw some along the road too, but this year there were none along the route. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iyR8hECPOpw/XNxzCeHd_1I/AAAAAAAAHC4/uyJEUVD8CTEM9LK0sVx4JqrIwBzOwVnVQCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_2906.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="430" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iyR8hECPOpw/XNxzCeHd_1I/AAAAAAAAHC4/uyJEUVD8CTEM9LK0sVx4JqrIwBzOwVnVQCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_2906.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Vaya, what long tentacles you’ve got </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> So, as it happens, I had my flowers craving satisfied almost the first thing. From that point on I was already a happy woman. But it got better (in a weird torturous way). </p>
<p> We started our ascent by Montaña Blanca (the White Mountain, which is orange. Yeah. Go figure). It was the same route as before, the one most people who ascend on foot take. Wikiloc probably has hundreds of variation on the theme. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kzWacR64_gM/XN1SkL1qFCI/AAAAAAAAHDM/a2j0HWBLf_E_xD2w1X_dUYLR1aZmvjn9gCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_2956.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1045" data-original-width="1600" height="418" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kzWacR64_gM/XN1SkL1qFCI/AAAAAAAAHDM/a2j0HWBLf_E_xD2w1X_dUYLR1aZmvjn9gCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_2956.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuerteventuraesque Montana Rajada to the right of the path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> When you start going by that route, first you ascend very slowly by a dirt track, then you stop for a breather just where the actual slope of Teide starts. From there, an old path starts climbing a lot sharper to Altavista mountain refuge. Apparently, the path was used in the past for bringing stuff up the mountain on the backs of beasts of burden. Considering the amount of stuff we were carrying, that bit didn’t change since. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zf98_p-LHRw/XN1UTq5YIkI/AAAAAAAAHDc/G3Z7PvULChcBrrXeiNMLPN4c370YaU4tgCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_2986.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1586" height="362" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zf98_p-LHRw/XN1UTq5YIkI/AAAAAAAAHDc/G3Z7PvULChcBrrXeiNMLPN4c370YaU4tgCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_2986.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retama above-the-clouds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> White <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spartocytisus_supranubius" target="_blank" title="Spartocytisus supranubius in Wikipedia"><i>Spartocytisus supranubius</i></a>, Broom above-the-clouds was in bloom. We saw it last time too, but I like this specific term so much, I feel compelled to point it out again. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WZeUDyh1YuE/XN1VBzupdUI/AAAAAAAAHDk/MmFWbtaTo6EBr-_2xCrwOmvOZAjZnjk2ACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_3006.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1017" data-original-width="1600" height="406" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WZeUDyh1YuE/XN1VBzupdUI/AAAAAAAAHDk/MmFWbtaTo6EBr-_2xCrwOmvOZAjZnjk2ACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_3006.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Huevo Roto</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> Last time we also saw these dark lava balls called Los Huevos del Teide (Teide’s eggs or Teide’s balls). This time we noted how many of them were broken. That produced certain amusement in our group since <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huevos_estrellados" target="_blank" title="Huevos estrellados in Wikipedia"><i>huevos rotos</i></a> (“broken eggs”) is one of the basic dishes in Spanish cuisine. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a0N2tiFtf9g/XN1VOQLPiII/AAAAAAAAHDo/Um9JcvcCfTU1bxW6Aud4Xvcxlk2JNKP9ACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_3070.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="915" data-original-width="1600" height="364" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a0N2tiFtf9g/XN1VOQLPiII/AAAAAAAAHDo/Um9JcvcCfTU1bxW6Aud4Xvcxlk2JNKP9ACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_3070.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonus track </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> One of the unexpected pleasures was to find “<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viola_cheiranthifolia" target="_blank" title="Viola cheiranthifolia in Wikipedia">violeta del Teide</a>” in bloom. I knew about its existence, but I was concentrating on tajinaste since it is so much more spectacular. But it was so nice to find the small blue-flowering plants scattered along the route. The biggest number of them we found just behind Altavista refuge, as you start going up from it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coFQzLM3sx0/XN1VbXYDiZI/AAAAAAAAHDw/jHPNB0GOV3oFocgKixs2tviVpdTvFF5CwCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_3122.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="916" data-original-width="1600" height="366" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-coFQzLM3sx0/XN1VbXYDiZI/AAAAAAAAHDw/jHPNB0GOV3oFocgKixs2tviVpdTvFF5CwCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_3122.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anaga mountain range with its cloudfall in far distance</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> We got to the refuge without any problems. If anything, we were going up too fast — when we arrived, the door was still closed. The rooms (there are three dormitories with bunk beds) are distributed between 5 and 6 pm; all spaces were fully booked. You must reserve the refuge in advance, or get it reserved for you, as it was our case. I am reasonably sure they won’t throw you out if you turn up there, frost-bitten with your teeth chattering, and ask for help, but you won’t have a bed. Also keep in mind that the door is closed at 10.30. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wNyvjxHqah8/XN3UDLSjeiI/AAAAAAAAHEc/bgS7eFCwUtMOA-Bzii-HYQp8HNXHB_ZpACEwYBhgL/s1600/independence.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="906" data-original-width="1000" height="578" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wNyvjxHqah8/XN3UDLSjeiI/AAAAAAAAHEc/bgS7eFCwUtMOA-Bzii-HYQp8HNXHB_ZpACEwYBhgL/s640/independence.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> I especially like the way the letter “п” is drawn, without the horizontal stroke. <br> You can almost imagine somebody with a bad eyesight copying it off a screen, tongue sticking out in concentration. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> After we had a little rest and snacks in the refuge it was still light outside so I decided to go up a bit, to see if the view opens up to the left (as you look down). At the level of the refuge there is a crest of lava rock blocking the views, you can see it on the very last panoramic picture. </p>
<p> I was going up for a while already when I stopped to take a pic and realised that there was another member of our group going up behind me. I stopped to wait for her and we carried on together. In a little while, we saw two young guys going down the same path. They greeted us really happily (I am reasonably sure that we all had certain light-headness due to the altitude). Their older companions followed soon, one of them carrying a flag of “Canarian Independence Party”. They stopped to chat; the independist turned out to be big fan of Russians in general — he is one of the few remaining people who still remember who won the Second World War. At some point he produced the bit of paper you can see above. On it, it is written, or rather drawn, in Russian: </p>
<center><blockquote> Russians remember! <br>
Canary Islands <br>
NOT <br>
Spain <br>
Independence!!” </blockquote></center>
<p> Just imagine that — you go up Teide and you carry with you a sticker of your Spanish party in RUSSIAN! That shows quite a dedication I say. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YT7ShVVvK8Y/XN1VvMW7GQI/AAAAAAAAHEA/ez6iHcMMu8Yg1Lem6axQFZhz7k961qawQCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_3175.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1007" data-original-width="1600" height="402" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YT7ShVVvK8Y/XN1VvMW7GQI/AAAAAAAAHEA/ez6iHcMMu8Yg1Lem6axQFZhz7k961qawQCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_3175.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shadow of Teide and Gran Canaria</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> The other guy turned out to be a botanist, and my companion made a mistake of telling him that I was very interested in botany. So we ended up having a conversation about botany after the political one; by the time we were finished the shadow of Teide was racing across the caldera of Canadas del Teide. It was clear that, what with no torches with us, we can’t possibly go up, so we went back down to the refuge. As we learned next morning, that was a big mistake. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yuUwjRZKnu0/XN1V6QYFVaI/AAAAAAAAHEE/BT_qCSQknYYxdy3L0bgv8BT4Pvd2_njpgCLcBGAs/s1600/fromrefugio.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="1600" height="258" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yuUwjRZKnu0/XN1V6QYFVaI/AAAAAAAAHEE/BT_qCSQknYYxdy3L0bgv8BT4Pvd2_njpgCLcBGAs/s640/fromrefugio.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama from refugio</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> So the next morning we got up at 4.30 to start by 5.30 (or was it 5? I must have blocked it). Most of us didn’t get a wink. Adults in a large dormitory situation don’t tend to sleep well. I think I slept a bit, but woke up about three-ish to find a guy across the passage snoring and a woman across another passage complaining loudly about it. I guess I wasn’t quite awake, coz I did something I wouldn’t normally do — I took my pillow and reached with it across the passage to push him a bit and make him change the position. It turned out, however, that the guy wasn’t the one who was snoring, he was quite awake, and was startled and shouted out loudly. Now I am not sure I can live it down with this <a href="http://www.arawakviajes.com/senderismo/" target="_blank" title="Arawak Viajes - Senderismo">group</a> as they didn’t stop talking about the episode all of the next day after the ascent was over. Maybe I need to change the group. </p>
<p> Anyway, here comes the hard (although exciting) bit. We started from the refuge and, before we came to the level of the upper station of the cable car, the wind picked up and was blowing really hard, some gusts literally enough to lift you off your feet. A few members of our group stayed there — the wind plus the strong smell of sulfur was too much for them. Majority carried on though. Some considerable stretches of the ascent we had to go on all fours, and at one point it looked like we can’t do it all the way to the top. Then one of the guides went up to investigate, came back and said it was possible to go up with caution. So up we went. The sunrise was very sunrisey. Only La Gomera was sticking over clouds and I find it too dangerous to take my camera out of the backpack. Still, it was quite a beautiful, adrenaline drenched experience. If any of my companions publishes a deserving pic of that sunrise I will add a link here. </p>
<p> Now, our plan was to go down by cable car. Except of course the cable car didn’t run in this wind. We we went down on foot, by the same path we came up and NOT by Pico Viejo, thank God. We had our intended walk almost doubled as a result. </p>
<p> So, two important lessons, for me at least. First — if there is a chance to go up, go up. Take a lantern, take water and go. You don’t know what’s gonna happen. </p>
<p> Second — you really truly don’t know whats gonna happen in the mountain. So have plan B, plan C and plan D just in case. </p>
<p> Did I say two? Three, actually — take a pair of earplugs and enjoy a peaceful sleep. The switching on the light will wake you up anyway, so... no point in listening to your companions snoring. </p>
<p> Pictures from Teide at Shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara/sets/201005570" target="_blank" title="Ascent of Teide — photos by Tamara Kulikova">here</a> </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-60960915528365047092019-04-15T19:13:00.004+01:002023-03-06T18:59:39.809+00:00Tajinaste azul and other delights<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbgdaeLiY6RWkg-L2Hn617PFNuptxAAwvYa2FSv7Yr98jCyfci5eDCW4nKoX5Ww5lZBtvJ9O1atWD-F1MHYbBPlbQxrHjNCsHLFOMQzDr6azrcHLbmcFqaQXR_Kyj5-H21dtR/s1600/Flowers_8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1350" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjbgdaeLiY6RWkg-L2Hn617PFNuptxAAwvYa2FSv7Yr98jCyfci5eDCW4nKoX5Ww5lZBtvJ9O1atWD-F1MHYbBPlbQxrHjNCsHLFOMQzDr6azrcHLbmcFqaQXR_Kyj5-H21dtR/s640/Flowers_8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busy busy bees</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p> When the year is just starting and everything goes green, it is time to check on some of our favourite plants on Gran Canaria. </p>
<p> First plants to start flowering are <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/03/almonds-of-tejeda-2018.html" target="_blank" title="Almonds of Tejeda, 2018 @ this blog">almonds</a>, no question about that. Weather was fluctuating wildly from the norm (if there is such a thing) this winter: they started already in December, coming to the crescendo in mid-January and leaving practically no flowers for the Almonds in Bloom celebration in Tejeda, which was scheduled, as always, on the first weekend of February. </p>
<p> Second lot is the tajinaste (or taginaste) azul, blue bugloss of Gran Canaria.* </p>
<p> Again, the timing varies significantly. The <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2015/05/tajinaste-azul-de-gran-canaria-o-de.html" target="_blank" title="Tajinaste azul de Gran Canaria o de Tenteniguada, blue candles of Gran Canaria @ this blog">first time</a> I went to see them was in the beginning of May 2015, they were almost finished, but not quite; the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2016/03/echium-callithyrsum-blue-candles-of.html" target="_blank" title="Echium callithyrsum, blue candles of Gran Canaria, second go @ this blog">second time</a>, in 2016, it was in the first half of March and they were in bloom. Last year, we went in on a scheduled hike with <a href="http://www.arawakviajes.com/senderismo/" target="_blank" title="Senderismo @ Arawak">Arawak</a> in April and saw only two plants already in bloom, others still firmly in bud. This year, we went on the 14 March and found the whole Barranco de la Pasadera in bloom — and not just tajinaste plants. So. If you want to go, you might want to start checking social networks in the first half of March. Somebody from Gran Canaria is bound to publish some pics as soon as the first flowers appear. </p>
<p> There is very little to write really — just enjoy the pics :) </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-37CEeFFkZ84gYnhEccDuB1W_KegeQHTIDnKZ6-xeumzaXsz4drCJNPhxki56yRF2VcmflXSrFsRR0kxTcuudRJnqtJ4OMwghejXWBTG3qiDAkd2hGveESxXa6UrnwMTlzn9/s1600/Flowers_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1431" height="401" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz-37CEeFFkZ84gYnhEccDuB1W_KegeQHTIDnKZ6-xeumzaXsz4drCJNPhxki56yRF2VcmflXSrFsRR0kxTcuudRJnqtJ4OMwghejXWBTG3qiDAkd2hGveESxXa6UrnwMTlzn9/s640/Flowers_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beautiful poppies </td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W9nrJe0HgLc/XLTENjjcNFI/AAAAAAAAHAs/R6hWhWTK1kYiwFCB3gFGTuKJ9_jtHaTHACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1491" height="428" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W9nrJe0HgLc/XLTENjjcNFI/AAAAAAAAHAs/R6hWhWTK1kYiwFCB3gFGTuKJ9_jtHaTHACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0236.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Canarina canariensis</i>, Canary bell flower, normal, orange color </td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jaYKFfmJhfw/XLTEO11zpmI/AAAAAAAAHA0/bJlSfjGQAkEqx4B0mPgy8QzI84miz-x0wCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1482" height="430" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jaYKFfmJhfw/XLTEO11zpmI/AAAAAAAAHA0/bJlSfjGQAkEqx4B0mPgy8QzI84miz-x0wCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0301.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And highly unusual pure yellow specimen. This is the only plant with pure yellow flowers I know for sure.
<br />
I think there was another one in Tilos de Moya, but I am not 100% sure of that</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtYoBU_LF9X6aHhUQrld8eKQrPoPjFacTp8_MruUR5yJWa-6MgEJL-5L_ceevOLCy3_at4Nl-6RI7o5AAcqhJGWj4iuXzPRvEExQI4M4LQo3BlzdR0-64olz4MoXegzbj04MhV/s1600/Flowers_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1398" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtYoBU_LF9X6aHhUQrld8eKQrPoPjFacTp8_MruUR5yJWa-6MgEJL-5L_ceevOLCy3_at4Nl-6RI7o5AAcqhJGWj4iuXzPRvEExQI4M4LQo3BlzdR0-64olz4MoXegzbj04MhV/s640/Flowers_2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Banana passionfruit, <i>Passiflora tarminiana</i>.
<br />
It is a cultured plant, not a wild one, but Rincon de Tenteniguada is the only place I saw it growing on the island so far.</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjr-lDDnq-5PhPFWc6FR0ZrM7SyLUk3XZ9SgK57ig-oujMJp2I-WmXodfS-tM1W5HWoQJXaoY89_m4eV2sAvMXu4wrDkYvN1ydmlkJVYpfdK_W5x_6IWxQgcqp2N0czh1j5q8P/s1600/Flowers_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1350" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjr-lDDnq-5PhPFWc6FR0ZrM7SyLUk3XZ9SgK57ig-oujMJp2I-WmXodfS-tM1W5HWoQJXaoY89_m4eV2sAvMXu4wrDkYvN1ydmlkJVYpfdK_W5x_6IWxQgcqp2N0czh1j5q8P/s640/Flowers_3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plum flowers </td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtb0pP2b1nIsqB2-ugwh0Z9JAVLKzGHBXhsgK1y55fW-T_7hd_R1mTLgfkCmWy8kBBg5AME1npksyQ-MjLOoKFF_AWxwl-f47Gdj0OQ1B7bkBJJm-qVGsPPPKlh8Vy4m4rGiV9/s1600/Flowers_7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtb0pP2b1nIsqB2-ugwh0Z9JAVLKzGHBXhsgK1y55fW-T_7hd_R1mTLgfkCmWy8kBBg5AME1npksyQ-MjLOoKFF_AWxwl-f47Gdj0OQ1B7bkBJJm-qVGsPPPKlh8Vy4m4rGiV9/s640/Flowers_7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Arisarum simorrhinum</i>, kinda weird. You need to look closely to spot this brown squiggle between all the brightness</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Ac4GAwIUEMxn97aHG7qjyHG6RAt3W6GSp3KQDEylXqsjE6IGk9ptBv2NhS34gSjc5LGVVGz_xvJTCXW8OpV_taGA1BhMoO3gEKFE7bQRpUjIs9G7HGI2uIU5T-3xwSRX9-RP/s1600/Flowers_6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1545" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-Ac4GAwIUEMxn97aHG7qjyHG6RAt3W6GSp3KQDEylXqsjE6IGk9ptBv2NhS34gSjc5LGVVGz_xvJTCXW8OpV_taGA1BhMoO3gEKFE7bQRpUjIs9G7HGI2uIU5T-3xwSRX9-RP/s640/Flowers_6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption">Erysimum albescens, alhelí, beautiful cousin of cabbage</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwA55lR9Jt3xx8kGnlXEPpMACqfdEn-VpD3NDjRAZEm7F-ENH9-8MnPt2A0dZDJT5VWExuGRZ_VgXQQ9hpKguC1NkapI8tmFQCzl9jOS49Xm0CrCk0cz21ICb_6Gtc6iXm-vag/s1600/Flowers_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="889" data-original-width="1600" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwA55lR9Jt3xx8kGnlXEPpMACqfdEn-VpD3NDjRAZEm7F-ENH9-8MnPt2A0dZDJT5VWExuGRZ_VgXQQ9hpKguC1NkapI8tmFQCzl9jOS49Xm0CrCk0cz21ICb_6Gtc6iXm-vag/s640/Flowers_5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="firstHeading" id="firstHeading" lang="es">
Echium callithyrsum</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQ-Eofd7xPClUUE2Yda3r9TLXtZhQb_sxG_vhfq8s5CbrqqSU4edRe5GKYaO_PaY1ciLDMKp5sOn0Uo8sAaqbha8Y4eavwwmn7w-9xYaJf3LVjySFfw37IgLDQcyE7KuxgAF0/s1600/Flowers_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1538" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguQ-Eofd7xPClUUE2Yda3r9TLXtZhQb_sxG_vhfq8s5CbrqqSU4edRe5GKYaO_PaY1ciLDMKp5sOn0Uo8sAaqbha8Y4eavwwmn7w-9xYaJf3LVjySFfw37IgLDQcyE7KuxgAF0/s640/Flowers_4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and another busy busy bee</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5v8ghKEHFgXtYrDGk4rY3BpweDqFn1HeZjXl5R5Ao_4dZq-jGlO-N0LzLzmJbC0DTcahrE4uv4iSHYJjVjwbJZZriQ7O90i-C9xo37QwBYoE-i6ewjkPHO3p0gmmyYYSvWVpD/s1600/Flowers_9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1350" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5v8ghKEHFgXtYrDGk4rY3BpweDqFn1HeZjXl5R5Ao_4dZq-jGlO-N0LzLzmJbC0DTcahrE4uv4iSHYJjVjwbJZZriQ7O90i-C9xo37QwBYoE-i6ewjkPHO3p0gmmyYYSvWVpD/s640/Flowers_9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dead and dried opuntia cactus stem texture</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSLSaArdnbs/XLTEN03_Y0I/AAAAAAAAHAw/jtqr6vBi-iQeHEaQZeslihDfbJnyIuz2ACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1600" height="352" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZSLSaArdnbs/XLTEN03_Y0I/AAAAAAAAHAw/jtqr6vBi-iQeHEaQZeslihDfbJnyIuz2ACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0396.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moai of Tenteniguada</td></tr>
</tbody></table></p>
<p><a href="http://www.blogger.com/profile/00719435019715182189" target="_blank" title="Kirill's profile @ Blogger">Kirill</a> took a few videos, to introduce some sound and movement of the insects, mostly bees. </p>
<p><center><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/J6U3F15XZGo" width="560"></iframe></center></p>
<p> Interestingly, when we were there, the sound of busy bees on tajinaste flowers seemed the loudest, while in the video you can hear very little, if any, of it. Probably to do with how higher and lower frequencies are recorded. </p>
<p><center><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IaXzwvmOehY" width="560"></iframe></center></p>
<p> Check out the scenery. As if the flowers weren’t enough. They have way, way too much of geology in here, as I’ve already written somewhere. </p>
<p><center><iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1jF3UQtGuI8br_B5HljC9UycxrRY97AQM" width="640"></iframe></center></p>
<p> Here is a little (very little) map for you — how to get to the lower part of the Barranco de la Pasadera ravine and to the first bushes of tajinaste, starting from the bus stop at the Casas del Rincon. There is less than a kilometer, and you don’t really need to ascend much to see all the beautiful flowers, you can walk up just a little but, and they all will be there waiting for you. But if you feel extra energetic, you can carry on up, there are paths to San Mateo, to Las Cumbres etc. </p>
<p> The path is marked, if you like to be doubly sure you are going the right way. </p>
--------------------------------------------------
<p>* Third one will be <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2016/07/flora-of-gran-canaria-tanacetum.html" target="_blank" title="Flora of Gran Canaria - Tanacetum ptarmiciflorum, silver lace plant @ this blog">silver tansy</a>, but it is not in bloom yet), so watch this space. </p>
<p> Text and photos by Tamara. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara/sets/194903813" target="_blank" title="Flora of Gran Canaria by Tamara Kulikova @ Shutterstock">Flora of Gran Canaria on Shutterstock</a></p>
<p> Mind you, this is just a small part of what I have to show on the subject. My full portfolio on Shutterstock — <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara" target="_blank" title="Tamara's Portfolio at Shutterstock">here</a>. </p>Kirillhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00719435019715182189noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-69766164048614529012019-04-05T12:52:00.004+01:002023-03-12T22:45:58.774+00:00Spring equinox sunrise at the necropolis of Arteara <p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-adOyNihypb0/XKXzC_LBBvI/AAAAAAAAG-g/CO5zxbs7WEYyE9ScomZvzrEjRczhT2JQgCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0841.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1544" height="372" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-adOyNihypb0/XKXzC_LBBvI/AAAAAAAAG-g/CO5zxbs7WEYyE9ScomZvzrEjRczhT2JQgCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0841.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Somebody switched on an enormous spotlight behind Amurga massif. </td></tr></tbody></table></p>
<p> On one of our very first visits to Gran Canaria we booked a stay in a village called Fataga. The reasoning was that the holiday house looked really nice and that it was “only” 45 km from the airport. We were thinking in terms of Fuerteventura or possible even East Anglia, where 45 km on the flat is no distance at all. What can I say. We were wrong. Between the airport and Fataga there is an enormous Amurga massif. You can either go through a steep and narrow pass called Degollada de las Yeguas or go a longer and somewhat less steep route through San Bartolome de Tirajana. The second option is easier, but you need to know that beforehand. We didn’t. The most difficult bit is going up to the pass from Fataga to airport (opposite direction being downwards and therefore easier). When I tried to do it the first time, I got stuck on the steepest curve. I kept stalling the motor and try though I did, couldn’t advance even an inch. If anything, I was going backwards with each stalling. A small queue of cars started to form behind me immediately, and eventually a giant tourist bus joined them. A guide from the bus, very nice and polite German guy, run up to us and asked what was going on. When he found out that nothing was wrong with the car itself, he suggested to drive us to the pass, and did. I was enormously grateful to him, still am. </p>
<p> That all happened in daytime (hence the queue and the help). We, however, were supposed to drive to the airport in the small hours, in the darkness, on the empty road. So. I chickened and we changed the booking for the last night to a guesthouse in Ingenio. I did have to drive the same road one more time of course, but not at night and I was mentally prepared to what was coming and managed ok this time. </p>
<p> Why am I telling you all that, all these years later? </p>
<a name='more'></a>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gulc-ioL7a0/XKX5qTZ58gI/AAAAAAAAG-s/1zeWgV9PAV4ixA0YJl7shMqYS36oTmaBgCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_0773.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="818" data-original-width="1600" height="326" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Gulc-ioL7a0/XKX5qTZ58gI/AAAAAAAAG-s/1zeWgV9PAV4ixA0YJl7shMqYS36oTmaBgCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_0773.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Light just starting to appear on the clouds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> I was studiously avoiding driving in the mountains of Gran Canaria ever since, but I keep being impressed by the skills of drivers, especially the local bus drivers, who handle these curves as if it was nothing at all. This time I was given an opportunity to admire their driving style on precisely the same road. </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bvMmrnZIGnI/XKX7jbSvzDI/AAAAAAAAG-4/u40-vk1IihQxptseVwmloeQIsCPnZpihwCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0779.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="842" data-original-width="1600" height="336" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bvMmrnZIGnI/XKX7jbSvzDI/AAAAAAAAG-4/u40-vk1IihQxptseVwmloeQIsCPnZpihwCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0779.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<p> Just like the <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/12/winter-solstice-sunrise-on-mesa-de-acusa.html" target="_blank" title="Winter Solstice Sunrise on Mesa de Acusa @ this blog">Winter Solstice trip</a>, the excursion to see the Spring Equinox sunrise at Necrópolis de Arteara was organised by the Cabildo of Gran Canaria. This time, we had to start from Las Palmas at 6 am. However, it took the driver much less time than (probably) expected. We arrived at Arteara almost two hours before the event we came to observe. It was cold. Or guide, the very same guy who took us to see the solstice, had a cold and was claiming to be a dying man. The walk to the necropolis from the carpark was short. There was nothing much to see and do around tiny visitors center, which, btw, was opened specially for our group, it being so early. So we tried to warm ourselves by moving around the necropolis, which is not easy, because the whole area is malpais, covered with not-so-big sharpish stones. The stones came down off the walls of the valley and were used to construct the tombs. Most of the tombs are difficult to identify as such for an untrained eye, such as mine. That is to say, they look like piles of rocks. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H3RfnaiLSCg/XKX7wHL2FBI/AAAAAAAAG-8/kb4BC9MCozEvXwUsIQHYHiJX7zFgV-ZGwCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0813.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1592" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H3RfnaiLSCg/XKX7wHL2FBI/AAAAAAAAG-8/kb4BC9MCozEvXwUsIQHYHiJX7zFgV-ZGwCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0813.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Same outline as in the second pic, now with the some sunlight inside the Barranco de Fataga ravine </td></tr></tbody></table>
<p> The explanations our guide was offering were excellent as usual, despite him being ill. Some of the stuff we have already heard before, but that is normal when somebody is giving so many talks on different, but related topics. One of the things that were said more than once already is the supposed aboriginal Canarian tradition to mummify the bodies of their dead. Basically, it didn’t exist, i.e. there were no tradition. They buried the bodies somewhere safe, where wildlife couldn’t get. In some of these places, in dry caves, for example, the conditions were just right for natural mummification, i.e. the bodies getting dry and preserved with all their bits on. But there was no intention to it. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DE_ZypTMBg0/XKX713_AItI/AAAAAAAAG_E/AZNy0Hgnn_A_2NIosCgNtuIx12wOyH7QACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0821.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1557" height="368" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DE_ZypTMBg0/XKX713_AItI/AAAAAAAAG_E/AZNy0Hgnn_A_2NIosCgNtuIx12wOyH7QACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0821.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Spotlight effect becoming more apparent </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> As to the necropolis itself I’ll refer you to the <a href="http://www.grancanaria.com/turismo/en/culture/archaeological-sites/arteara-necropolis/" target="_blank" title="Arteara Necropolis @ GranCanaria.com">official website</a>. I am not that interested in cemeteries. We came there to observe a celestial event. </p>
<p> The Equinox itself is that time of the year when the sun takes the right path to observe the cone of light coming through a narrow pass in the Amurga massif. That is to say, it doesn’t have to be Equinox precisely. Sun is a must though. </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aZMzPsbqWdw/XKX7563BT-I/AAAAAAAAG_I/lG6z7DUFlJM3065k9HVLcGkaCyMtp7mYgCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0847.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1475" height="390" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aZMzPsbqWdw/XKX7563BT-I/AAAAAAAAG_I/lG6z7DUFlJM3065k9HVLcGkaCyMtp7mYgCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0847.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Sun appearing over the pass </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> In a funny way, the Equinox in Arteara looks like a negative of Solstice in Acusa, or vice versa. Here we have a cone of light, shining upwards. <a href="http://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2018/12/winter-solstice-sunrise-on-mesa-de-acusa.html" target="_blank" title="Winter Solstice Sunrise on Mesa de Acusa @ this blog">There</a>, we have a cone of shadow, falling downwards. Have a look, am I right or am I right? </p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U9TWd8fS6hg/XKX79wc32VI/AAAAAAAAG_M/K1F0AJdZiYEonSzmKxEeX2iRESUyMs_4gCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0865.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U9TWd8fS6hg/XKX79wc32VI/AAAAAAAAG_M/K1F0AJdZiYEonSzmKxEeX2iRESUyMs_4gCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0865.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Falling onto the “King’s tomb” </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> As to the claims that the light falls onto a tomb of the King (eh?) on Equinox — weeeelll. There are 800+ tombs in that necropolis, according to their own website. The equinox sun has to shine somewhere. So, make your own conclusions. It’s nice to believe in great significance of everything, but excluding simple randomness would be wrong.</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YS4FFmgPz80/XKX8VRWtBrI/AAAAAAAAG_c/SCpLmVE31CoRoDSovpLNDb0500cGkj2WQCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_0870.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1460" height="394" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YS4FFmgPz80/XKX8VRWtBrI/AAAAAAAAG_c/SCpLmVE31CoRoDSovpLNDb0500cGkj2WQCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_0870.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Last snap before we go. As you can see, the sun is behind Amurga once more </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p> If you go there on your own, the entrance will cost you something, check the <a href="http://www.grancanaria.com/turismo/en/culture/archaeological-sites/arteara-necropolis/" target="_blank" title="Arteara Necropolis @ GranCanaria.com">info</a> on their website. We got in free and Cabildo provided a bus from Las Palmas. That’s what I call a good deal. Generally, “Es todo tuyo” (It’s all yours) program of Cabildo is excellent, the only problem is that the most popular excursions fill in in a matter of minutes after the inscriptions open — it feels like the whole island is hovering over their keyboards waiting for the “go!” moment. </p>
<p> That’s all folks :) </p>
<p> Equinox pics on shutterstock — <a href="http://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?q=equinox" target="_blank" title="Photos by Tamara Kulikova related to Equinox @ Shutterstock">here</a> </p>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-12887803894670696022018-12-25T14:38:00.000+00:002019-02-10T17:11:12.528+00:00Winter Solstice Sunrise on Mesa de Acusa<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rTs6dGdoLRI/XCFyxesCr5I/AAAAAAAAG1s/eA91bud3AMMlJxscIbVc5NqW4edVkCPlgCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rTs6dGdoLRI/XCFyxesCr5I/AAAAAAAAG1s/eA91bud3AMMlJxscIbVc5NqW4edVkCPlgCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6716.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I liked this stage of the sunrise the most — the cone of shadow under Roque Bentayga was spectacular</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
An excursion to greet the first rays of the sun on the day of winter solstice is organized by the Cabildo of Gran Canaria every year. Well, this year there were two, on two consecutive days, coz, let’s face it, the difference in the position of the sun and timing is non-perceivable and we are no druids anyway. <br />
We already tried to attend one of those <a href="http://listenlearnread.blogspot.com/2015/12/alphaville.html" target="_blank" title="Alphaville: une étrange aventure de Lemmy Caution @ Listen, Learn, Read">three years ago</a>. The bus picked us up later than it was promised, the driver took a long way to Acusa plus he seemed to be afraid of the dark or something. All these combined, we arrived to the Mesa de Acusa, a plateau in the upper part of the Acusa village, when the sun had already risen, to the general embarrassment of all. <br />
This time was different. We started on time; the bus was small, so it could take a faster route via the smaller roads, and the driver was excellent. We arrived well before the sunrise and had a lot of time to freeze our bits off and to listen to a very good explanation from the Cabildo guide .<br />
Of course, to observe the beautiful sunrise over the rock formations Roque Bentayga and iconic Roque Nublo you don’t need to be there on the day of solstice, but on that day and around it it’s well known where the Roques project their shadows (see map below). Plus, of course, I like a bit of ritual now and then. <br />
Not overmuch, though. <br />
<a name='more'></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6VkTXuGVLtk/XCFy9KIUeAI/AAAAAAAAG1w/Drub7wRmedo5pm2iU-R-L6oLAHn7rWtagCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_6719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="931" data-original-width="1600" height="372" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6VkTXuGVLtk/XCFy9KIUeAI/AAAAAAAAG1w/Drub7wRmedo5pm2iU-R-L6oLAHn7rWtagCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_6719.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to Winter Solstice!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Here I must mention that the guide we had was truly excellent at his job. I don’t know how many guides the Cabildo has in total, but two recent excursions I’ve been to both were led by the same guy. I hope he is happy with his job and keeps working for a good long while, he really adds value to the experience. <br />
The explanation was given in Spanish, of course. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gJAL8HpKgJE/XCFy9MF5hkI/AAAAAAAAG2Q/we3GSnkzNHsqnJaSKSugNBiIYaJm_veCQCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1581" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gJAL8HpKgJE/XCFy9MF5hkI/AAAAAAAAG2Q/we3GSnkzNHsqnJaSKSugNBiIYaJm_veCQCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6729.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spooky circular reflection </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
An observation for photographers — the rising sun gives you enough time to reposition yourself if necessary. In our case we were between the rising sun and Roque Bentayga (I like it more than Roque Nublo, it is much more imposing), so there was no need for me to run around. The nice thing about the plateau of Acusa (Mesa de Acusa is “Table of Acusa”, btw) is that it is sufficiently large and flat, so moving around is easy and reasonably safe once you get to twilight stage. <br />
Don’t step over the edge though, the drop to the cave level is nearly vertical. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vy7rXyF1z4U/XCFy9a03hbI/AAAAAAAAG2c/ZCQRn9GDcxgwXXD7iKdsu1o8YFUm0GX_wCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1297" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vy7rXyF1z4U/XCFy9a03hbI/AAAAAAAAG2c/ZCQRn9GDcxgwXXD7iKdsu1o8YFUm0GX_wCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6754.jpg" width="492" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the ”dining room” of one of the caves which the Cabildo bought for preservation.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After the meeting and greeting the sun was over, we went down to the cave village Acusa Seca. There is a bunch of cave houses that are inhabited, a couple of holiday cave houses that you can rent (there were plates with “Vv”, standing for “vivienda vacacional”, by the gates). And then there is 26, if I am not mistaken, cave houses owned by the Cabildo. Apparently, you can ask for a key to some of them at the office and it will be given to you. I never tried though so I don’t know how long is the application process. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwpoRqOVB9I/XCIOYJZMs2I/AAAAAAAAG2w/MEPGFwECbgErDaA60noojrUsn80y606lACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9567.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="882" data-original-width="1600" height="352" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lwpoRqOVB9I/XCIOYJZMs2I/AAAAAAAAG2w/MEPGFwECbgErDaA60noojrUsn80y606lACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_9567.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=nispero&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=popular&measurement=px&safe=true" target="_blank" title="Photos of Nispero by Tamara @ Shutterstock">Nispero</a> is flowering in a garden in front of a cave.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The original cave houses are small and not deep. The current owners, understandably, tend to want to make them bigger by digging in and/or adding a roofed porch. Problem is, in the deep parts of the caves there is no ventilation and adding depth leads to some undesirable consequences. (Here my ever-present craving for visual aesthetics adds “and the external add-ons are really ugly”.) <br />
Anyhow, wishing to preserve the cave village as close to its “original” state as it is possible, the Cabildo bought twenty-something caves off their owners. They are not truly original, i.e. they are not holes in the rock, they do contain some old pieces of furniture, i.e. they are rather preserved in their post-conquista state. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oHf1JjcCcJA/XCIMY6X891I/AAAAAAAAG2k/atTAn_CYNToT6190n4Cl1_aLxi-FexRaACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="858" data-original-width="1600" height="342" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oHf1JjcCcJA/XCIMY6X891I/AAAAAAAAG2k/atTAn_CYNToT6190n4Cl1_aLxi-FexRaACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_9569.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the horizontal cave openings half-way up the cliff? These caves were used by aboriginal dwellers for grain storage. I guess they liked their food <b>really </b>safe.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After visiting the caves we went up the same path. By then the plateau was in full sun. It was also full of dry thistles. I mean, I saw some before we went down to the caves, but it was too dark to appreciate the quantity. It must look spectacular when the pants are in flower, which is somewhere in the end of summer I think. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iBSuqjChGYg/XCIWxFrGhTI/AAAAAAAAG28/irIFcdDexYInfG6MfDgmA7Q5TTyK5s_6wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1600" height="322" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iBSuqjChGYg/XCIWxFrGhTI/AAAAAAAAG28/irIFcdDexYInfG6MfDgmA7Q5TTyK5s_6wCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_9565.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think it is one of the species that are used as a curdling agent in one of the most famous <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=canaria+cheese&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=popular&measurement=px&safe=true">Gran Canaria cheeses</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flor_de_Gu%C3%ADa_cheese">Flor de Guia.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As a bonus, it was also full of sheep and lambs. The shepherd was sitting at the edge of the field discussing something with his friend. When I asked for a permission to photograph, the said friend hurriedly departed, being camera-shy, I guess. The shepherd himself, however, was quite happy to pose. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oLHe3_LUy6A/XCFy-VZ7oFI/AAAAAAAAG2c/qq90JMI0uY4uVPFcqdA4zG2nNPmA--dpQCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1464" height="436" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oLHe3_LUy6A/XCFy-VZ7oFI/AAAAAAAAG2c/qq90JMI0uY4uVPFcqdA4zG2nNPmA--dpQCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6765.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He’s got a traditional <a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=canarian+knife">Canarian knife</a> stuck in his belt.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
More cheese, please. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjXCrMUF6o/XCFy-sb79cI/AAAAAAAAG2U/6clo_Thp0ecAtlX86d3ExMmXY536EKokgCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6767.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1455" height="438" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gDjXCrMUF6o/XCFy-sb79cI/AAAAAAAAG2U/6clo_Thp0ecAtlX86d3ExMmXY536EKokgCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6767.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heroic posturing. The dog is not interested though</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
When I showed the snap to our guide, he said that the name of the shepherd escapes him right now, but that he looks so very typical of the local shepherds, what with the moustache, hat and the shirt half-unbuttoned. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QCl9CdOfjY0/XCFy_toC5GI/AAAAAAAAG2I/Ex3j5dE8hTA3eLKqMzQvCaUnvgXbKL60QCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_6791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="922" data-original-width="1600" height="368" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QCl9CdOfjY0/XCFy_toC5GI/AAAAAAAAG2I/Ex3j5dE8hTA3eLKqMzQvCaUnvgXbKL60QCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_6791.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And on his farm he had some sheep. E-I-E-I-O</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
That’s all folks. <br />
<center>
<iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=13ubVXlGVW5omH9DDl5vyL-7AvRdvTu6v" width="640"></iframe></center>
<a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=solstice+&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=popular&measurement=px&safe=true">Solstice images on Shutterstock </a><br />
<a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/ru/g/tamara?searchterm=acusa&search_source=base_gallery&language=ru&sort=popular&measurement=px&safe=true">Acusa images on Shutterstock </a>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-58205616858609384642018-12-23T20:55:00.000+00:002019-01-14T11:05:43.946+00:00Lensbaby, stars, fishes and hearts <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M5xFMdBns1E/XBlOP7gDn8I/AAAAAAAAG00/wuRn9ppHhiYGhqVNkGOwXYM-hK3webriwCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1442" height="398" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M5xFMdBns1E/XBlOP7gDn8I/AAAAAAAAG00/wuRn9ppHhiYGhqVNkGOwXYM-hK3webriwCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6442.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas tree decoration in the Barranco Guiniguada, between Triana and Vegueta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I want to have a break from all things hiking and show some of the experiments with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lensbaby" target="_blank" title="Lensbaby in Wikipedia">Lensbaby</a>. I took it out of its little bag where it was left undisturbed for a looong time because I thought I should sell off the stuff I never use.<br />
<br />
My Lensbaby is a first primitive Composer, fully manual, move-it-as-you-like, no-one-knows-what-s-gonna-come-out type. I must say the focusing is really tricky, especially in the poor light.<br />
<a name='more'></a><span id="goog_1654026906"></span><span id="goog_1654026907"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zgXRpMuu9aE/XB_OJZEg0SI/AAAAAAAAG1U/Dw8AFGIo2JIbrMHSXrL7VlD0xumZv3A0ACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_5390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="937" data-original-width="1310" height="456" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zgXRpMuu9aE/XB_OJZEg0SI/AAAAAAAAG1U/Dw8AFGIo2JIbrMHSXrL7VlD0xumZv3A0ACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_5390.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">“Normal” Lensbaby picture</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I started to look up the prices for the second-hand lenses to know how much to ask for. While doing so I came across some nice pics taken with various models of Lensbaby with unusual patterns in the bokeh area. Experimenting with the bokeh was the stuff I never did before so I decided to have a go at it prior to selling the lens off.<br />
<br />
The “normal” Lensbaby pic (above) look quite pretty already, with a sweet spot and a soft “fly-in” unfocused area. To achieve the patterned bokeh I simply chose the most open of the magnetic aperture rings my Composer has and cut a new, smaller aperture with a star-shaped opening out of black card. Then I simply stuck it on to the ring with Scotch tape. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5oTg9OOX-qU/XBlOE3A9CTI/AAAAAAAAG0s/PC-o8lqASLIPIhlGWFZ3czsqNeCYW_LOACEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_5760.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1350" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5oTg9OOX-qU/XBlOE3A9CTI/AAAAAAAAG0s/PC-o8lqASLIPIhlGWFZ3czsqNeCYW_LOACEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_5760.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garlanded trees in Vegueta, old town</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Above you can see the results of the first attempt. By trial and error method I established that I didn’t really like the pics where there was a focused area, which made the subsequent attempt easier — I just abandoned the whole focusing lark.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=star+christmas+background+dark&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=popular&measurement=px&safe=true">Christmas background on shutterstock.</a><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IL9ThsM2MY/XBlOOtTJAiI/AAAAAAAAG04/wi6b8i9oo5Ix2jE3OmEk3IgzM-M_DciQwCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="841" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_IL9ThsM2MY/XBlOOtTJAiI/AAAAAAAAG04/wi6b8i9oo5Ix2jE3OmEk3IgzM-M_DciQwCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6175.jpg" width="538" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think it looks better with a dark silhouette </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the second attempt, still with Lensbaby and star aperture, we went together with my son. He was modeling for me in front of the Christmas tree made with garland spheres which is installed each year in the Barranco Guiniguada. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A1lrrj1GmKI/XBlONly78rI/AAAAAAAAG04/VUiuSB_Sa08_yKb8A8zrPixPRFGxukBWwCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="748" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A1lrrj1GmKI/XBlONly78rI/AAAAAAAAG04/VUiuSB_Sa08_yKb8A8zrPixPRFGxukBWwCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6126.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Timur is doing a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamilton_(musical)" target="_blank" title="Hamilton (musical) in Wikipedia">Hamilton </a>:) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When there is a lot of highlights in the frame and they are all on the different levels, the results look really dreamy.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6-6DkRM8pk/XBlONjkNW5I/AAAAAAAAG0s/UJ4hbf819BEisrQQAOdTaUGUeQiqQWCpwCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6167.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q6-6DkRM8pk/XBlONjkNW5I/AAAAAAAAG0s/UJ4hbf819BEisrQQAOdTaUGUeQiqQWCpwCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6167.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dreamy</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I made another go at it, with the aperture in a shape of a little fish. I think I might want to repeat it one day, coz fish is not as fishy as I wished.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hNaU6YvbX_w/XBlOPliytyI/AAAAAAAAG04/Q-h57mk5eCcwsAt9Kzj13hBXnBfYppRDACEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hNaU6YvbX_w/XBlOPliytyI/AAAAAAAAG04/Q-h57mk5eCcwsAt9Kzj13hBXnBfYppRDACEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6312.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas tree, Lensbaby fishes and my crystal ball. A tad too much methinks.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YaYp57sdL40/XBlOOxeGkzI/AAAAAAAAG0o/pIv39EkQNPIhb5LE10YhdWydPcw_4gU9QCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_6256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="930" data-original-width="1600" height="370" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YaYp57sdL40/XBlOOxeGkzI/AAAAAAAAG0o/pIv39EkQNPIhb5LE10YhdWydPcw_4gU9QCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_6256.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">“And they just mooove”. I think I need to cut out another fishy aperture. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finally, the first pic I did with a heart-shaped aperture stuck on the front of my 100 prime Canon lens. It might be not so interesting but it is a lot easier, the only thing which is a bit tricky is to figure out the size of the figure you are cutting. <br />
<br />
I still have the Lensbaby Composer for Canon, in case anybody’s interested. This lens has been discontinued in favour of Lensbaby Composer Pro and now <a href="https://amzn.to/2AN363w" target="_blank" title="Lensbaby L 3U8C Composer Pro II with Sweet 50 optics for Canon EF @ Amazon.co.uk">Composer Pro II</a>; my lens looks very much like <a href="https://amzn.to/2RryNdk" target="_blank" title="Lensbaby Composer Nikon Lens @ Amazon.co.uk">Lensbaby Composer for Nikon</a>. <br />
<a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=star+christmas+background+dark&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=popular&measurement=px&safe=true"><br /></a>
<a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=star+christmas+background+dark&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=popular&measurement=px&safe=true">Christmas special effects backgrounds on shutterstock</a>Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37144023.post-25711622691039638182018-11-13T23:16:00.000+00:002018-11-14T01:26:36.533+00:00Fuerteventura, traditional post of November <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2nuY2-xbpKk/W-qiWn6fheI/AAAAAAAAGvs/jTz6epNr-WUF0wHZHANvvDHSEpTTDjNPwCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_4532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1482" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2nuY2-xbpKk/W-qiWn6fheI/AAAAAAAAGvs/jTz6epNr-WUF0wHZHANvvDHSEpTTDjNPwCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_4532.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So far, this is probably my favorite kite ever. It was there all these years, I think. I even have it on the cover screen of my laptop. Looks alive, doesn’t it? Like a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandworm_(Dune)">sandworm</a>, except harmless and beautiful</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This November, as every November over the last few years, I flew to Fuerteventura to see the <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=kite+festival&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true">kites flying</a>. I am not sure if the magic of the event works on everybody, but is certainly works on me — the white sand of the <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=dunes+corralejo+natural+background&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true">dunes</a>, the volcanoes, the proximity of the ocean, and huge colorful objects suspended in the air, casting their shadows — it is all very Dalí-esque, surreal and beautiful. <br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cyPm2d4GuYc/W-qhh-Qa0bI/AAAAAAAAGvc/9529wQpqNs0ts6cc5Yeal8CMRCIgus8sgCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_4436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1481" height="388" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cyPm2d4GuYc/W-qhh-Qa0bI/AAAAAAAAGvc/9529wQpqNs0ts6cc5Yeal8CMRCIgus8sgCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_4436.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
On my way over I wanted to photograph the shiny ocean surface under the plane and the shadows of the clouds. Somehow the combination of my polarizing filter and windows of the plane, probably also polarizing, produced nice rainbow effect on the surface of the ocean. I didn’t even see it while looking through the viewfinder and only noticed it later on in the preview.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnhH6BwAbSI/W-qhhy0bO6I/AAAAAAAAGvo/iuOXOXsCpJYciEgn9KVJzMPH2AKr-1gwACEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_4439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1350" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnhH6BwAbSI/W-qhhy0bO6I/AAAAAAAAGvo/iuOXOXsCpJYciEgn9KVJzMPH2AKr-1gwACEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_4439.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Rainbow ocean surrounded Punta de Jandia peninsula and its little lighthouse. Two German guys sitting behind me got very excited about it, repeating “Spitze!” a few times, one of the very few German words I know, sort of.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=plane+sea+clouds&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true">Images</a> of sea from a plane on shutterstock<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M7jTA7wERH0/W-qhh5UjTfI/AAAAAAAAGvc/aNxbxSf2aTo6TZ-0cy-y2eOieeFLYf9SQCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_4449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1586" height="362" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M7jTA7wERH0/W-qhh5UjTfI/AAAAAAAAGvc/aNxbxSf2aTo6TZ-0cy-y2eOieeFLYf9SQCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_4449.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These one looks newer than my old fav, and is probably as big, but it is less colorful. If I was a kite-maker I would always, always introduce oranges and reds into the design for maximum contrast with the sky.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I arrived at about ten, so I was in the dunes by eleven, with many kites already in the air and many more in process of being lifted. I didn’t see anything conceptually new this year, but of course I was not there all the time, so I might have missed it.<br />
<br />
That is not to say there weren’t any new kites. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ltEWar1BIY/W-qjQntRKUI/AAAAAAAAGv8/gyEEVj6mUy8MXzRCB388la8YKgHf5hAGQCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_4553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1208" height="422" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ltEWar1BIY/W-qjQntRKUI/AAAAAAAAGv8/gyEEVj6mUy8MXzRCB388la8YKgHf5hAGQCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_4553.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lotsa sharks again</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4tUU0I1oAKE/W-qjQk-XRZI/AAAAAAAAGv4/4ydzs-SCZrgXTjVVUp1viadpKFsQ1sCSgCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_4550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1272" height="402" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4tUU0I1oAKE/W-qjQk-XRZI/AAAAAAAAGv4/4ydzs-SCZrgXTjVVUp1viadpKFsQ1sCSgCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_4550.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like the crocodile, he looks very serene. Plus it reminds me of old, still Soviet, army joke. *</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now, same as last year, I’ve noticed a big problem with parking. Arriving at eleven on Saturday I was able to find a spot quite close to Burro beach, but when I was leaving for El Cotillo about 1 pm, every single parking spot almost up to RIU hotels was taken, which means that the arriving people had to walk at least a kilometre along the road or on the sand. Or go and park in Corralejo and take a taxi from there. And once again I didn’t notice any special arrangements being made for bringing people from/to Corralejo in shuttle buses, which would be a logical special public transport service. I imagine it even be quite profitable for the municipality, and of course it would remove at least some of the cars from the road. So, anyhow, if you go by car, arrive early or prepare to walk. <br />
<br />
Kite festival <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=kite+festival&measurement=px&sort=newest&safe=true&search_source=base_gallery&language=en">images</a> on shutterstock <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s74sY9kbMBE/W-qhkDbh5AI/AAAAAAAAGvI/l4QmJbRCb0AJmmKsGbBHICp5Wn5dT3J9gCEwYBhgL/s1600/_MG_4573.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s74sY9kbMBE/W-qhkDbh5AI/AAAAAAAAGvI/l4QmJbRCb0AJmmKsGbBHICp5Wn5dT3J9gCEwYBhgL/s640/_MG_4573.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paradise. Flag Beach, view towards Isla de Lobos. Look a the lace of foam on the water, over white sand. Fuerteventura has the most beautiful beaches of all places I know. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After seeing the kites, I pulled out of my spot, leaving it for somebody who looked very hot and bothered. I think they must have already made a few passes before finding somebody — me, that is — who was ready to go finally. I drove just a little bit along the road, past the hotels, to the Flag Beach, which used to be out favorite beach on Fuerte. It is as beautiful as ever, but also, I felt, more cramped than it used to be. Maybe Fuerteventura is getting more popular. On one hand, it is good for the island, or so they say. I just hope it doesn’t get too crowded and lose its relaxed and free feel. <br />
<br />
Pics of<a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/ru/g/tamara?searchterm=Flag+Beach+Fuerteventura&search_source=base_gallery&language=ru&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true"> Flag Beach</a> (my, there are even sparkler art images there, forgot all about them) and <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/ru/g/tamara?searchterm=Grandes+Playas+beach+ocean+water+&search_source=base_gallery&language=ru&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true">Grandes Playas</a> on shutterstock.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ar2bhbPzNEs/W-qjdsUo_3I/AAAAAAAAGwA/RmifoJ9W-kcMwuhbS8CJ8EcaeNHNGEpnwCLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_4622.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1585" height="362" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ar2bhbPzNEs/W-qjdsUo_3I/AAAAAAAAGwA/RmifoJ9W-kcMwuhbS8CJ8EcaeNHNGEpnwCLcBGAs/s640/_MG_4622.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
After that I went to El Cotillo and on to Faro del Toston lighthouse to do some crystal ball photos. The sea was really rough and the tide was high, so there was no chance of <a href="https://www.alamy.com/image-details-popup.asp?&n=NaN&imageid={E74DE044-A255-4EE5-84C8-5C5AFE4E9C60}">sand rippled by water</a>, but there always is the next time. <br />
<br />
Between <a href="https://tamara-kulikova.blogspot.com/2017/11/gran-canaria-october-2017-one-month.html">my first ever crystal ball shoot</a> and now I somehow managed to forget about the sun-focusing effect. No, I didn’t start any fires, it’s kinda hard on the rocky surface, but I very nearly gave my palm a severe burn with the hot sun of Fuerteventura.<br />
<br />
Toston Lighthouse <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=toston+lighthouse&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true">images</a> on shutterstock<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fjRRXi06G1c/W-qjki_zHgI/AAAAAAAAGwI/_m4y0Ect77wjoFSvUoGjDovwlgf5gUBfACLcBGAs/s1600/_MG_4659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1570" height="366" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fjRRXi06G1c/W-qjki_zHgI/AAAAAAAAGwI/_m4y0Ect77wjoFSvUoGjDovwlgf5gUBfACLcBGAs/s640/_MG_4659.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
In the picture above, of the windmill in El Roque close to El Cotillo, you can see from the direction of the light that the sun was going down, so there was no danger of burning the surface the ball was on. The area around the windmill was prettified over the last few years, although some of the horrible wire fencing still remains. <br />
<br />
El Roque windmill <a href="https://www.shutterstock.com/g/tamara?searchterm=windmill+cotillo&search_source=base_gallery&language=en&sort=newest&measurement=px&safe=true">images</a> on shutterstock<br />
<br />
After I finished all my planned photo shoots there was very little time left. Yes, I didn’t plan very well, unfortunately.<br />
<br />
I only had time to drop in to <a href="http://www.lcguitars.com/">Luca Canteri</a>’s place to say hello and to look at his latest masterpiece. We <a href="https://listenlearnread.blogspot.com/2013/05/luca-canteri-multiscale-guitars.html">warned</a> you his <a href="https://listenlearnread.blogspot.com/2014/08/lc-grand-concert-cutaway-and-la-classica.html">beautiful guitars</a> will get noticed and, consequently, more difficult to get, didn’t we. Well, you were warned. Good news is he continues to make them so you still have a chance :)<br />
<br />
Anyway, it was a great day. Looking forward to my next visit to the island. <br />
<br />
--------------<br />
<table><tbody>
<tr><td valign="top">*</td><td>“Comrade Sergeant, do crocodiles fly?” <br />
“What? Who told you this bullshit?”<br />
“Comrade Colonel.”<br />
“Ah, Comrade Colonel?! Actually, they do fly, but really, really low.”
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
Tamara Kulikovahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18008651088408982055noreply@blogger.com0