Almonds of Tejeda, 2018

Heart-stopping beauty

Every year, the almond trees of Gran Canaria put forth a beautiful show of blooms. The almond flower festival is also supposed to happen every year, but this year, it didn’t, first time in decades. Bad weather hit it, bringing first a good(ish) snowfall to the mountains, then wind, then snowfall again... First, the festival was postponed, then postponed again and finally cancelled altogether, when it became clear that almonds are already past the maximum blooming stage.

See the smooth top of the cloud? It is windy up there.

So, this year they were no occasion for a formal hanami in Tejeda, but still, we went there a couple of times on our own. I am glad to report that flowering did happen, fiesta or not. Happily, not many almonds burned in the fire last year. Only some unfortunate trees which were growing well above the level of the village were affected (for example, this one is completely burned)

My latest attempt at hanami calligraphy

So, if you find yourself on Gran Canaria in January-February, do try to go to Tejeda. Check the weather first, it could be surprisingly chilly in the mountains. Many of the island tours go through it; using public transport is a cheaper option, but do check the timetables, there are very few buses from San Mateo and even fewer from Maspalomas.

Some of the branches seem to try to imitate art.

There are a few restaurants in the village itself, one excellent cake and sweets shop — Dulcería Nublo , where you can buy a great variety of local almond products. Plus, relatively recently a traditional (and not one of the best) bar very close to the last bus stop re-styled itself as a micro-brewery/restaurant. It is called Texeda. The local beer is good; the food looks good too (we didn’t eat there yet but the reviews on trip advisor are favorable).

There is a path linking the village itself and Cruz de Tejeda (pass to get there from San Mateo) — it is relatively short and easy. When you start in Tejeda you go upwards, so you might consider going in reverse direction.The almonds are growing closer to the village; closer to the pass you find yourself surrounded by the black post-fire landscape.

Some madman put up a cross...

But fear not, stuff will grow back eventually. And if it is too slow to grow, we will help. There is an ongoing reforestation program. And this weekend, I am scheduled to go with one of the groups precisely to Cruz de Tejeda :)

Harold the happy hedgehog (don’t ask)

Next day after I took the first pic, winter storm Emma was to hit Canaries, so the flowers were to disappear, gone with the wind. I know the beauty of the flowers is meant to be transitory and so much more precious for it, but still, still, what a shame, oh my poor heart.

Here is a little haiku for the occasion.

Pink almonds flower
but tomorrow blooms will fly
where Emma pleases

Almonds on Shutterstock