Cantabria, short coastal walk

A Nevermore moment (see the black object on the top of the chapel? It is a raven, doing his thing)

This year on our holidays I wanted to do a bit of the Camino de Santiago, the Way of Saint James. As you can see from the Wikipedia map (if you didn't know it perfectly well already), there is not one path but many, all leading to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia.

I saw the scallop signs of the Camino on Santander's pavements last year and got curious, purely from the hiking point of view. A little research showed that the Santander route is not considered to be the "main" one, but that didn't deter me. What did though was the discovery that even the variation of the path that goes through Santander doesn't run along the coast. It is parallel, roughly, but not close.

So. What follows is not really a part of the Camino, it is just a possible way to go walk west from Santander. It (almost) links to the spectacular Costa Quebrada. Physically it links, you just carry on along the coast, it is just that I don't have the record for the linking bit. If you are looking for scenic, I reckon the coastal path is your best bet. And if you are intent on doing the "real" camino, it runs really close inland, so you can stamp your passport and  stay in pilgrims' refuges.

Extremely busy beach, El Sardinero. Mind you, it wasn't even a weekend when it gets busier still.

So. We started our walk at the north end of El Sardinero beach. The road that runs parallel to the beach ends in a roundabout. There are stairs coming off it, you go up and find yourself on a path that runs around a municipal golf course first and then generally follows the coastline along the top of the cliffs.

Small islet, Isla de Mouro, in the middle of Bay of Santander. As if drawn with a very fine camelhair brush.

Playa de Mataleñas, in a cove immediately after the golf course. Also very busy.

First, you are aiming to get to Faro de Cabo Mayor, at the entrance to the Bay of Santander, where the streets end and real paths start. There are some alternatives - for example, instead of going around the golf course, you can cut through Mataleñas park or walk on the streets. As long as you find yourself by the lighthouse, you are fine.

All sorts of lighthouses.

The lighthouse building houses a small art exhibition in its flat bit and a rather charming collection of lighthouse-related bric-a-brac under the tower. It is open to the public, albeit at strange hours, and is gratis. The tower itself, however, is not accessible, which is a shame.

Quite some cliffs. The little white structure is the same chapel as in the first photo. It is rather grandly called "Panteón del inglés",  although why should it be called Pantheon beats me. It was build to commemorate an unfortunate British gentleman who was thrown by his horse and died there in the 19th century

The path starts at one of the corners of the outside sitting area of the nearby bar. From that point on, just follow the coastline. The path might branch a bit or merge with the road, but you have the Bay of Biscay to your right, and that's all you need, orientation-wise.

Toothy karst (or so I think) formation along the path.

We finished our walk by the Spanish Oceanographic Institute, but you can simply continue to the Maruca beach, cross the river there and carry on to Costa Quebrada. It is all pretty and green in summer. If you do not wish to continue, turn your back to the bay and go inland however you can - you will find yourself on the outskirts of Santander soon enough.

Edible rock samphire grows everywhere along that coast. I did try to chew on a leaf and found it pleasant :)

Beware of the dragon though. Draco cantabricus sleeping between Urros de Liencres.

Distance: 7.56 km

↑ 101 m
↓ 125 m

Cantabria pics on shutterstock